lahabana magazine

TRENDING HAVANA JAN

7

INCLUDING GUIDE TO THE BEST PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, DANCE AND STAY IN HAVANA

lahabana. com

magazine

JAN 2017

2

lahabana. com

LA HABANA.COM is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba arts & culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more... We seek to explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live work, travel and play in Cuba. Beautiful pictures, great videos, opinionated reviews, insightful articles and inside tips.

magazine

HAVANA GUIDE The ultimate guide to Havana with detailed reviews of where to eat, drink, dance, shop, visit and play. Unique insights to the place that a gregarious, passionate and proud people call home.

HAVANA LISTINGS

MAY 2016

3

lahabana. com

magazine

magazine

E D I TO R I A L It’s 2017 and we’re back with brand new exciting contents and pictures in What’s On La Habana—the definitive cultural and travel guide to Havana. This month we have focused on what’s trending in Havana from restaurants, to people, to nightlife, to places to visit and more. Read all about Javier Sotomayor, who after having received the Prince of Asturias Award became the Prince of Heights to all Cubans. And discover why Cuban meteorologist José Rubiera is not only a great scientist but a great human being as well. Not to miss is the celebration of the Epiphany at Plaza de San Francisco on January 6, 2:30pm. Evoking an old tradition, the AfroCuban Council will tour the principal plazas of the Historic Center of Havana, including performances by the Tambores de Bejucal and the traditional comparsa Los Componedores de Batea. Dance-wise, the Gran Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso, whose grand reopening took place exactly one year ago, starts the year off with The Nutcracker (January 1, 8, 15 & 22, 5pm; January 14 & 21, 8:30pm) with the performances, among others, of stars Anette Delgado, Viengsay Valdés, Sadaise Arencibia and Grettel Morejón. If you’re a lover of Cuban folklore dances, then you should not miss the two-week-long-event FolkCuba (January 16-290, which is held with experts who will teach you Cuban dances and music of African and Spanish origin, including mambo, cha-cha-cha, rumba, mozambique, pilón and conga. Meanwhile, the International Workshop on Cuban Modern Dance, Cubadanza (January 2-13), is aimed at professional dancers and students who will learn the Cuban technique of modern dance. The Fine Arts Museum (Edificio de Arte Universal) exhibits throughout the month a retrospective of the work of Michelangelo Pistoletto (considered one of the great representatives of Arte Povera) from the 1960s to the present. The LaHabana.com Team wishes our faithful readers all the best in 2017! Abrazos! JAN 2017

lahabana. com

magazine

JAN 2017

5

lahabana. com

magazine

Cuba Travel Network: Definitely Different Come and experience Cuba with a company that’s passionate about the magical island. Our on the ground team in Cuba is the first to know about the country’s developments—from new hotels and tour possibilities to ever-changing travel regulations, and we love to show our beautiful home to the world. With Cuba Travel Network, experience Cuba as a traveler, not a tourist.

Why travel with Cuba Travel Network? • CTN is the premier travel service provider for the individual traveler planning trips to Cuba, handling accommodation, all domestic flights and excursions. • On-the-ground assistance from expert concierge representatives throughout the island. • Choose from fully guided, flexible and special interest tours. • Real-time availability and immediate booking confirmation for 220+ hotels and 50+ rental car locations. • Secure online payment; Visa & MasterCard accepted.

US - [email protected] | 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europe - [email protected] | +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] | 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] | +53 (0)7 214 0090

CubaTravelNetwork.com JAN 2017

6

lahabana. com

CONTENTS JAN 2017

magazine

Trending Havana issue 10 places to visit in Havana

08

10 famous Cubans

19

Songs inspired by the city

23

Havana nightlife

33

Dining out in Havana

37

Paseo 206 Restaurant

42

For the New Year

45

56th Cuban Baseball Series

47

HAVANA LISTINGS VISUAL ARTS PHOTOGRAPHY DANCE MUSIC THEATRE FOR KIDS EVENTS

HAVANA GUIDE FEATURES RESTAURANTS BARS & CLUBS LIVE MUSIC HOTELS PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION

JAN 2017

lahabana. com

TEN PLACES TO

VISIT IN HAVANA

magazine

FUSTER’S HOME AND STUDIO José Antonio Rodríguez Fuster is a world-renowned ceramist, draftsman, painter and printmaker whose home and studio draw a steady stream of tour buses and private visitors coming to marvel at the extravagant ceramic sculptures that adorn his home and the surrounding neighborhood—colloquially called ‘Fusterlandia.’ Fuster has made a major contribution during almost two decades of work to enliven the humble fishing village of Jaimanitas, on the western outskirts of Havana. He has decorated over 80 buildings with murals, paintings, sculptures, etc.

photos by Mene and Lorena JAN 2017

8

lahabana. com

magazine

PLAZA DE LA REVOLUCIÓN The Plaza de la Revolución (until 1959, called Plaza Cívica) is Cuba’s political center. The awesome Memorial y Museo a José Martí constructed during the 1950s is the centrepiece of the square. At the top of the tower is a mirador (reached by elevator), which is the highest viewing point in Havana, allowing visitors an unrivalled panorama of the city. Attracting as much attention as Martí’s memorial is the bronze silhouette of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara on the façade of the offices of the Ministry of the Interior on the north-west side of the square.

JAN 2017

9

lahabana. com

magazine

MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is a world-class cultural center. Its collections are housed in two separate buildings—one is a very satisfactory modernist edifice (Palacio de Bellas Artes, 1954,) containing Cuban painting and sculpture, whilst the International Collection is housed in the jaw-dropping former Centro Asturiano. With nearly 50,000 pieces, this is Cuba’s most comprehensive art museum.

EL CAÑONAZO DE LAS NUEVE AT LA CABAÑA FORTRESS From the late 17th century, cannon blasts were fired “at sunrise and sunset” to announce the opening or closing of the bay and the city gates. In 1898, it was decided to fire only one shot at 9:00 pm. With the restoration of La Cabaña in the late 20th century, the firing of the cannon became a ceremony, albeit somewhat eclectic given that the soldiers are garbed in 18thcentury military garb but whose commands belong to the 19th-century Spanish Infantry Regulations. As always, opinion is divided--some people regard the ceremony as a continuity of a longstanding tradition, while others describe it as the apotheosis of kitsch.

JAN 2016 10

lahabana. com

magazine

PLAZA VIEJA The 16th-century Plaza Vieja was the last and the largest of the four main colonial plazas to be laid out. Almost completely restored during the past decade, it is today an absolutely beautiful art-filled space. Many of the restored buildings now house fashion boutiques, small museums, photo galleries, cafés, and even a popular brewpub—Factoria Plaza Vieja, on the southwest corner. This brewpub has been phenomenally successful and is now something of Ground Zero in the search for a comfortable place to sit, eat, and drink in Havana’s busiest square, the gorgeous Plaza Vieja.

LA LANCHITA DE REGLA Passengers of the popular lanchita de Regla might be unaware of the fact that sailing and rowboats were being used right from the nineteenth century to connect today’s Avenida del Puerto to Regla and Casablanca. But the lanchita de Regla is no mere pleasure craft. Hundreds of people living in Regla and Casablanca use it on a daily basis to get to work and then to return home. On weekends the ferry has a whole different aspect. Passengers seem to enjoy looking at the waters and the splendid view of Havana receding into the distance as the imposing Christ of Casablanca gets closer. JAN 2016

11

lahabana. com

magazine

FINCA VIGÍA Finca Vigía was the magical place that the Bronze God of American Literature, Ernest Hemingway, discovered for writing. After his suicide in Idaho, his fourth wife, Mary Welsh, donated the house with most of their belongings to the Cuban Government. Since then, Finca Vigía has been a museum, which houses more than 9,000 books, magazines and booklets, as well as personal items, such as his Underwood typewriter, hunting trophies, the “I never write letters” rubber stamp on his secretary’s desk, or the Glenn Miller record he left on the record player.

JAN 2017

12

lahabana. com

magazine

PLAZA DE LA CATEDRAL The exquisite Cathedral of Havana, which serves as the seat of the Roman Cathloic Archdiocese in Cuba, dominates Plaza de la Catedral, perhaps Cuba’s most intimate square and definitely one of Old Havana’s most beautiful spots. In addition to the cathedral, which gives the square its definitive appearance, the other three sides are taken up by the façades of 18th-century aristocratic baroque mansions, all built within a 40-year period and showing a defining architectural harmony.

JAN 2017 13

lahabana. com

EL MALECÓN

PLAYAS DEL ESTE

The Malecón begins in Old Havana. The sea front drive is lined with 18th- and 19th-century stately homes, followed by a row of 20th-century buildings. But beyond the architectural values of the buildings, its greatest charm lies in being somewhere to stroll or hang out on a stiflingly hot day. It is a place where casting a fishing line may be more important than actually catching a fish; where the breeze joins nostalgic old couples and young lovers. It is Havana’s outdoor lounge.

Barely a 30-minute jaunt by car from Old Havana, the sugary white sands and crystalline turquoise waters at Playas del Este more than hold their own against those at the slickedup resorts elsewhere in Cuba. Come here in the winter and the place often has a timeworn and slightly abandoned air. At other times of year, for those who dislike modern tourist development or are keen to see how the Cubans get out and enjoy themselves at weekends, Playas del Este is a breath of fresh air.

magazine

JAN 2017 14

lahabana. com

magazine

10 FAMOUS CUBANS ALICIA ALONSO Known as the Grand Dame of Cuba, Alicia Alonso was voted one of the most beautiful women in the world by Harpers and Queen Magazine in the 1950s. At 16, she got married and moved to New York, but determined to promote ballet in Cuba, she set up the Alicia Alonso Ballet Company in 1948. But by the mid-fifties, the company had run into financial difficulties and political problems. Alicia left Cuba once again to return after Batista’s government had been overthrown by the Cuban Revolution in 1959. With generous funding from the government, she founded the Ballet Nacional de Cuba. Cuban ballet, while influenced by Russian and Soviet styles, is now recognized the world over as having its own unique form.

JAN 2017 15

lahabana. com

magazine

CARLOS ACOSTA Of mixed Spanish and African heritage, Carlos Acosta was the eleventh and last child of an impoverished family in one of the roughest areas of Havana. He grew up with no toys and didn’t even have a birthday cake until he was 23. Fearing his youngest hyperactive child would soon land in trouble, Pedro Acosta enrolled his son in a governmentfunded dance school hoping it would teach the boy discipline. He studied ballet at the Cuban National Ballet School, and before joining England’s Royal Ballet in 1998, Acosta had danced with esteemed dance companies in North America and Europe. At present, Carlos Acosta has his own company and his ballet Tocororo—A Cuban Tale has received worldwide plaudits.

BUENA FE Israel Rojas (lawyer) and Yoel Martínez (musician) formed Buena Fe in Guantánamo Province in 1999. Their music has a unique sound, with trova, pop and rock influences. Although experts classify their music as pop, they prefer to avoid categories. Their lyrics are a means for the authors to express their opinions on contemporary life. In the words of Israel himself, “We try to make an art that doesn’t silence truths, that doesn’t hide shadows, that points to the light. For that, you have to take risks.” JAN 2017 16

lahabana. com

magazine

CHUCHO VALDÉS Revered as one of the world’s greatest jazz pianists, Jesús Dionisio “Chucho” Valdés has won three Grammy awards (1978, 2000 and 2011) and four Latin Grammy awards (1997, 2001, 2002 and 2011), and was nominated Good Will Ambassador of the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). His compositions are complex and can be described as narrations which could be summarized into a single story. According to Chucho himself, the kind of jazz that they play can be described as contemporary Cuban music.

CARLOS DÍAZ The renowned director of the Teatro El Público theater company wanted to be an actor since he was a child. The first group he founded gave him the opportunity to experiment and begin to explore the path that his future company would travel. For Carlos Diaz, the most important thing in theater is communicating with an audience. He believes that theatrical art should be made to entertain the public. A carefully chosen repertoire and a consistent style of work are responsible for the long lines outside the Trianón theater. JAN 2017

17

lahabana. com

magazine

FERNANDO PÉREZ Movie maker and screenwriter Fernando Pérez Valdés started out as an assistant director before directing his first documentary. His films Clandestinos (1987), Madagascar (1994), La vida es silbar (1998) and Suite Habana (2003) are considered masterpieces of the Cuban cinema, with the latter being regarded by some critics as the best Cuban film in decades. Martí, el ojo del canario premiered in 2010 and earned several awards in the Film Festival circuit. Also a writer, his book Corresponsales de Guerra won the 1982 Casa de las Américas Prize.

FÉLIX SAVÓN A former amateur heavyweight boxer, Félix Savón Fabré is considered a boxing legend, winner of three gold medals at the Olympic Games, six world titles, three gold medals at the Pan American Games and four gold medals at the Central American and Caribbean Games. During his career, in which Savón never turned professional, he held a record of 362 wins and 21 losses, with all of his losses avenged.

JAN 2017 18

lahabana. com

JAVIER SOTOMAYOR Currently the world record holder in high jump, Javier Sotomayor was the dominant high jumper of the 1990s. He is regarded as the best high jumper of all time and is the only person to have ever cleared 2.45 meters. At 19 years of age, Sotomayor was already raked No. 5 in the world. He set his first world record at 2.43 meters in Spain in 1988. Then raised it in 1989 and again in 1993, with the 1993 record taking him only four jumps. Only 12 men have jumped 2.40 meters or higher, with only three repeating the feat: C. Thränhardt did it twice, P. Sjöberg did it four times and Sotomayor did it 24 times. And of the 24 all-time best high jumps, 17 are his.

magazine

JOSÉ RUBIERA Former Director of Cuba’s National Weather Forecast Center, José Rubiera’s areas of expertise include weather forecast, hurricanes, early warnings and the impact of hurricanes on society. He is the author of some fifty scientific articles and reports, a textbook and several brochures on the weather in the tropics. He has also given lectures in over sixty scientific events and meetings both in Cuba and overseas. However, he is probably best known for his work as weather forecaster on national television. His life work has earned him numerous decorations from the Council of State and an Honoris Causa Degree in Physics from the University of Las Villas.

JAN 2016 19

lahabana. com

magazine

LEONARDO PADURA Padura was born in the outlying Havana district of Mantilla where he still lives. He studied Spanish American Literature at the University of Havana, and in 1983 published his first novel. He spent considerable part of his life writing journalism, an experience that most probably led him to explore and understand the mentality of large audiences. To a considerable extent, Leonardo Padura has made significant contributions to the notion of rethinking the prototype of writer that has historically prevailed within our tradition. He is one of our intellectuals who have defended the right for Cuban writers and artists in Cuba to regain real prominence in public spaces so that their views and ideas do not continue to be diminished by different types of censorship.

JAN 2017 20

lahabana. com

magazine

SONGS INSPIRED BY THE CITY: NOSTALGIA, PASSION, LOVE, AND SOCIAL CRITIQUE Havana. Many a love song has been composed dedicated to this unforgettable city, from authors born and bred in its heart, who took their first steps in Guanabacoa, Vedado, Marianao, Luyano and Old Havana to musicians all over the world who admire its lively residents. Most foreign visitors arrive by air and make their way to the city’s heart travelling down Boyeros Avenue, past landmarks like the Ciudad Deportiva stadium complex where Cuba’s world class athletes train and the Plaza of the Revolution with its towering monument of Marti and the government ministry buildings from which the portraits of Revolutionary leaders Che and Camilo assure us with their well know words. For people arriving to Havana from other parts of the island they are welcomed at the city limits with a sign that declares “Havana: the Capital of all Cubans”. This city full of charm has inspired wistful songs full of nostalgia, love songs full of passion, and lyrics full of insightful social critique. We invite you to sample a small selection of the diversity of the city as sung by its resident musicians. “SÁBANAS BLANCAS” BY GERARDO ALFONSO Iconic images of the city: regal lions, the capital building, the Malecón, and the Virgen del Camino. Gerardo’s sonic portrait of the everyday life of the city presented in the rhythm of rumba, a fusion of different elements that make up the genre of guaguancó, naive to Havana. A lover of the city he declares that he “I swear I’m going to die of love and of desire to walk your streets, your neighborhoods, your places…” The image of the city’s avenues and the white sheets that flap in the wind above us from balconies of buildings that continue to defy gravity. The same author takes on the subject of the overcrowding in in the song “Habana llena de gente”.

JAN 2017

21

lahabana. com

magazine

“HOY MI HABANA” BY JOSÉ ANTONIO QUESADA In this song Havana is personified as a flirtatious woman sitting on her balcony, the architectural feature that seems to define the old city. The balconies of old Havana are like boxes in the opera from which one can observe and become part of it all. The voice of Xiomara Laugart has made this song legendary for its ability to make you feel part of this Havana, allowing you to observe yourself through her eyes, looking towards the sea and waiting for love. “HABÁNAME” BY CARLOS VARELA In this love song to the city Varela’s unique voice, usually rough and rasping, adopts a sweetness that will make you fall in love as well. It is a love story in which the Spanish and Cuban intertwine and the Morro serves as a witness. Full of nostalgia as he watches “every wall of the illusion” fall before him, it is an aging photograph of the old colonial city Varela’s voice resonates with the impotence of one who dreams in vain of returning the city to its former glory. “ANDAR LA HABANA” BY IRENO GARCÍA Dawn in the capital, two lovers walk the city in this simple song. Ireno accompanied by his guitar leads us by the hand down the streets of the city on a tour that lasts from dusk till the dawn of the new day. “Havana has moved to the Malecón”, this could be any day this year, or the last, or years from now as the city’s residents attempt to escape the heat of overcrowded city and look for perspective. This place where the waters beyond our coasts slam against the reefs and reminds island dwellers that there is nothing more beautiful than the blue of that ocean on our shores, while simultaneously reminding us that those waters connect us with far-away lands. Ireno’s voice is like a whisper and we follow him through the most important streets of the city: G, 23, looking for that blue, Zanja, that ocean, Galiano, Central Park, Obispo, the Cathedral and once again we find the balconies of the city waiting to be bathed by Havana’s first light. JAN 2017 22

lahabana. com

magazine

“HERMOSA HABANA” BY LOS ZAFIROS A love song in five-part harmony. The Prado, the sea, the streets. Despite its flattering name (Hermosa means beautiful) the languid rhythm of the violin’s lament in this quintet’s song is full of longing. How can an ode to such a beautiful city be sung with such deep sadness? “MI VIEJA HABANA” BY LIUBA MARIA HEVIA The habanera, is a genre of song with a distinctive rhythm. Danzón with the city’s distinctive stamp. Liuba sings a habanera dedicated to Havana full of love to the city and symbols of colonial past: the light streaming through stained-glass windows, wandering musicians, and cobblestones. This city lives deep within those who love her and even in death those who have lived and loved Havana will never be parted from her.

JAN 2017 23

lahabana. com

magazine

“LOCOS POR LA HABANA” BY MANOLITO SIMONET This song shows the joy of the island capital that comes to life after dark, where social status is not important and workers and intellectuals mix on the corner around a good game of dominoes. Havana is a city where the lack of resources has never limited the joy of the people who can make an orchestra good enough to dance to by banging on an empty can and a with just one bottle can bring together a group of friends. Havana is a crazy city and its residents are crazy for it. “LA CAPITAL” BY GEMA AND PAVEL This infectious tune paints a picture of Havana at the advent of the 20th century when Gema’s grandfather came to Havana, then a bustling cosmopolitan city inhabited by people from all over the world looking to prove themselves and make a life in this new frontier. A city in which the diverse cultures that its inhabitants brought with them from Spain, Africa, and China mix to become something new, Cuban.

JAN 2017 24

lahabana. com

magazine

“HABANA” BY EDESIO ALEJANDRO Havana’s rumba played to the beat of the clave by a man leaning over a conga drum in the entrance to a colonial building transformed into a tenement, full of clothes lines, tanks of water and women dancing in flip-flops. These are the images that cross your mind as the voice of the singer and the beating of the percussion enter your body, shaking your shoulders and making its way to your hips. “Havana, my Havana is so beautiful!” “LA HABANA A TODO COLOR” BY HABANA ABIERTA With a touch of rock ‘n roll, the lead voice begins “Blessed be Havana, city of my emotions”. The song is an invitation to discover the city at a contagious rhythm, homage to the coast, the neighborhoods, the people and the monuments which we find around every corner of this bewitching city. There is a connection between the city and the natural elements: water, earth, light and air. The singing voice speaks to the ambivalent relationship that many people in Havana have with their beloved city that oscillate between deep love, suffering, and joy.

“HABANEANDO” BY X ALFONSO This artist is known for his fusion and his music is always nurtured by the most contemporary rhythms. In this song he gives birth to a new verb: Havana-ing. He suggests that there is a hidden Havana present in the sound of the guitar, and the rumba that spills out of the homes in humble working-class neighborhoods. Although everyday life might be difficult, one must maintain a sense of humor. In the end, despite its problems, the city will seduce you. Another great song about the city by X Alfonso is “Habana Blues” which makes lyrical poetry from everyday stories of families separated by immigration.

JAN 2016 25

lahabana. com

magazine

“HERMOSA HABANA” BY ALDO Aldo uses the emblematic song written by the Zafiros as a background for a song that helps us to discover the beautiful city underneath the one damaged by immigration and misunderstandings. The malecón, which in other songs is highlighted for its beauty, is to this rapper a “immigration office” through which people from poor neighborhoods forgotten by bureaucracy pass. Also on the surface the city is beautiful Aldo sings about what is beyond the façade, the heart of the city which is slowly decaying. “LA HABANA MÍA” BY AMAURY PEREZ To close the list of songs is a song that is itself a list. Havana, the capital of Cuba emerges as a place full of possibilities: both the place of past sorrows and the place that allows you to forget them. The city that gives us the reasons to move on, to start over. Havana teaches us to hope, a place where dreams can come true. This city that gives us so much is a city that also inspires our loyalty. My Havana, Our Havana.

JAN 2017 26

lahabana. com

magazine

HAVANA NIGHTLIFE—WHAT’S TRENDING By Sophia Beckman

JAN 2017 27

lahabana. com

magazine

The drinking scene in the city often disappoints tourists inspired by Ernest Hemingway, Graham Greene and Havana’s decadence of longgone decades. The classic Hemingway haunts have become tourist traps and after midnight, Old Havana largely shuts down even while the Malecón is packed six-deep with locals and there are large queues outside some nightclubs. What Cuban bars do have, however, is great music. And in many places, there is a rich architectural heritage and a relaxed easy-going atmosphere. Generally, drinks selection is relatively limited but you will almost always be able to get a great mojito. In recent years, a number of more European-style lounge bars have opened, as well as a microbrewery in the heart of the old city. Throw in some comedy options and a thriving gay scene and there are plenty of options. The best Cuban salsa clubs host world-class Cuban bands on a nightly basis. The energy is infectious and dancing, spectacular. Having come to Cuba, you must see a top salsa/timba band. Discos cover a multiplicity of scenes, from the glitzy tourist venue to a smoky, hectic real Cuban locale. The music often varies from night to night. In recent years, a thriving nouveau trendy Cuban party scene has emerged, giving you a glimpse of a possible future Havana. Held at different locales, this is the place to be if you want to be seen by and mingle with the Cuban cool set. There is also a blooming alternative scene where brilliant Cuban musicians improvise to a very local beat. From Grammy winners to surprisingly accomplished minstrels plying along the Malecón, Cuba is a music Mecca. I think it’s fair to say that if you don’t experience music that moves you in the hips, heart, or elsewhere in your island travels, you’re missing the point. Unfortunately, not all the venues around town match the quality of the music being made, not to mention the technology and people hired to run it—audio equipment and lighting design can be nothing short of horrendous. Then there’s what we call ‘ambiente’ in these parts, the atmosphere of a place, which can make or break a venue in terms of audience experience.

JAN 2017 28

lahabana. com

magazine

Music is everywhere in Havana. Locals joke that Cuba is the only country in the world where you have to pay musicians not to play. Most bars and restaurants feature trios, quartets and septets. The level of musical training is very high and one of the consequences of the US embargo is that, rather than being overrun by American pop, Cuba has nurtured its own unique blends of African and European rhythms—from rumba to bolero, from cha-cha-cha to timba—and kept its level of creativity high. The best Cuban jazz is magnificent; unfortunately, you never quite know how good it will be. Experimental, daring, improvised, brilliant, terrible. Even as the actual members of Buena Vista Social Club succumb to old age, the number of events promising a ‘Buena Vista’ event seems to multiply.

Some personal tips and recent news: 1)Bars walk a thin line Some of the hottest and trendiest bars and private clubs have been closed in recent months. Reasons vary and there probably is no conspiracy, but it is of note that the favorite haunt of the Havana farándula, Sangri-La, now seems permanently closed, following Las Piedras and Kpricho. As of now, the ever popular, if somewhat cheesy, Up and Down remains open, as does the more edgy Bolabana—both places attracting a friendly local clientele. Newly opened Sarao in El Vedado is beautiful in a slightly pretentious Miami style, while Essencia Habana and Kings Bar attract a more mixed crowd of Cubans working in the private sector. My favourite bar remains Espacios, which has just extended its garden and attracts a trendy crowd of mixed age making an effort to have something for everyone! 2)Salsa is a niche activity—Pick your night! While visitors to Cuba love learning the appropriate pasos to the latest Havana D’Primera song, ideally with some expert assistance from a Cuban teacher, the reality is that salsa is played only in a few places now—look for Casa de la Música, Club 1830 on Thursday and Sunday evenings, Hotel Florida (most nights) and La Gruta (Wednesday nights). JAN 2017 29

lahabana. com

magazine

3)Old Havana shuts down early Don’t be surprised when Old Havana shuts down early—all is quiet by midnight as there are strict restrictions enforced. Apart from Hotel Florida, there are very few places to dance the night away and you may want to Uber up to El Vedado or Miramar by witching hour. 4)FAC is the death star of Havana’s cultural scene Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) is the death star to the Cuban cultural scene. The fact that it is a force for good (except if you are a fan of reggaeton, which is banned!) does not diminish its increasing power. This is Havana’s defining scene. It is here that stories will be written, lives lived, lovers loved and songs played. Both roughhewn and refined, it is unique not just for Cuba but really globally, given the cultural space it occupies. It provides a venue that proudly showcases the most authentic and daring artwork produced in Cuba today and it proves to us that it is possible to combine recreation with spirituality. There are four large naves that have been perfectly thought out for four different specific activities. In the first one, the focus is on the visual arts, graphic design, fashion, architecture and small-format music performances. The second is reserved for photography and video-art. The third nave belongs to dance, cinema, theater and classical music, and it also has a digital library. Finally, in the fourth nave, we can enjoy pop music concerts. The “soul” of Fábrica de Arte Cubano is a sense of style and wit that draws visitors in and allows them to feel free. There is a unique manner in which the various creative processes interact and crisscross, something that is really quite rare. The underlying spirit of the place has the physical structure framing the lovely idea of having art come together with art consumers in an intimate, dynamic and exciting way. The guiding force of this process has been X Alfonso, musician, composer and top Cuban music promoter, with the support and collaborative energies of a number of Cuban artists and cultural institutions. From 8pm to 3am, from Thursday to Sunday, Fábrica de Arte allows us to discover a very special Havana to be part of something very special which is happening right now. JAN 2017 30

lahabana. com

magazine

5)The best of the rest (clubs) When a good band is playing, it is difficult to beat El Sauce as a venue to see Cuban pop and trova artists such as Raúl Torres, Polito Ibáñez, Frank Delgado, Buena Fe, Kelvis Ochoa, Diana Fuentes, David Torrens, and Descemer Bueno. The crowd is somewhat older and more Cuban middle class than in places such as La Cecilia or Don Cangrejo, which attract a much younger crowd. And if you are feeling adventurous, don’t miss Salón Rosado de la Tropical on a night when they have a popular event on. This was once known as the legendary beer garden where Arsenio tore it up in the 40s. It’s still a big part of the live music scene today for large concerts, parties and other special events, which by their nature tend to be somewhat sporadic. Typically, there will be a salsa/timba gig on a Saturday night and a Sunday matinée with an older crowd, but you should check before heading out there. Elsewhere, Don Cangrejo continues with its popular Friday night parties, La Cecilia with its Saturday night extravaganza and Salon Rojo (Hotel Capri) with popular bands. All these places are fun if you are in the mood and want to get noticed.

JAN 2016 31

lahabana. com

magazine

Dining out in Havana By Sophia Beckman

Eating out in Havana used to be something of a struggle, a choice between a dozen private restaurants (paldares) which managed to obtain and keep a license and a few state run restaurants which occasionally would rise from mediocre to average. Today I probably still only regularly go to a dozen places but at least it is my choice! At their best these are cute owner managed businesses which have bags of personality, great food and attentive service. At their worst they are overpriced, pretentious with annoying service rubbish food and full of tourists disgorged from the latest tour bus – so be picky!

MY TOP 10 CHOICES ARE: 1.CORTE DEL PRÍNCIPE (Sergios)___________ Italian (Expensive) Simply the best food in Havana bar none. This is Sergio’s place who most nights is to be found fussing around the kitchen, tinkering with new dishes and welcoming regulars with his own version of Italian Spanglish. While there probably is a menu I have never seen one, ask for the specialties of the day. The best starters are eternal including baked eggplant, shrimps, beef carpaccio and focaccia with jamon serrano. The home made pasta main courses are spectacular, try the tagliatelle al fungi porcini/gamberi and zucchine/alla marinara. This is not a fancy place, and is tucked away in a residential neighborhood; but is typically packed with a regular expat crowd. They manage to avoid the large tour buses. This is somewhere where no one comes in a hurry, the service is attentive but not in your face. Splendido!

JAN 2017 32

lahabana. com

2.BELLA CIAO _________________________________Italian (moderate) Bella Ciao lies a little off the beaten tourist track and doesn’t look that special from the outside. It is not so much a well-kept secret as inhabiting its own ecosystem which once you have acclimatized to, you find yourself to keep going back, for lunch with business colleagues for a quick bite, with the kids for an early evening pizza and for a booze up with a group of friends late at night. This is somewhere where you are made to feel at home – where the service is so attentive and friendly you want to send your partner for finishing classes there! The food is great without being spectacular – reliable quality. Steak, fish, pastas and pizzas, all served as large portions.

magazine

3.EL ENFRENTE & O’REILLY 304 ________________ _____________________International (moderate) O’Reilly 304 opened a couple of years ago and soon established a firm reputation as the best place to go while in Old Havana, indeed one of the best locations in the city as a whole with the best cocktails and service to die for. Always a little small for me however imaginatively the space was used I was delighted when the owners opened up a new place opposite, literally El Enfrente. Situated on multiple levels in part of a larger building space there is as long as you can book a table since this is now probably the trendiest restaurant in Havana attracting a clientele of tourists and expats. The food is good, think tacos, seafood, cerviche (again) and an excellent fillet. On the drinks front if they have a passionate fruit daiquiri take it and another.

JAN 2017 33

lahabana. com

magazine

4.EL COCINERO ______________________International (moderate) El Cocinero opened in February 2013 and soon become a smash hit, now, situated next to the FAC it has become a staple on the good food gravy train. Located underneath the imposing brick chimney of the same name (which used to be a vegetable oil factory). The second floor, designed for more formal dining, is in black and grey tones, with minimalist paintings hanging and a nouvelle cuisine approach to food. Outside, an open patio surrounded by lush plants has a distinctly bistro vibe. Personally I like the third floor terrace which is where the real buzz is although bear in mind you need to go up another couple of floors of spiral staircases. The rooftop terrace is used for dining and drinks. The décor is more modern, casual and pop. Its menu has been expanding under Chef Ramon Manuel Lopez Alarcon, who aims to provide inspiring, organic and fresh food. Tuna tatar and tuna tataki are his signature dishes. Maybe the food could be better and I get never get comfortable in the chairs but the service is so good, the atmosphere so cool without being pretentious that these are forgivable sins!

JAN 2017 34

lahabana. com

magazine

5.LA GUARIDA __________________International (expensive) Open on July 14, 1996 La Guarida (also known as Fresa y Chocolate after the film), has been in expansion mode. But before we get to that – the basics. This is the best known restaurant in Havana, this is where Madonna recently held her 50th Birthday party. It is the must go to place when the glitterati come to town from the Queen of Spain to the Queen of American pop (Beyonce). The building, originally known as La Mansión Camagüey, is both showing its age and its former grandeur. Some structural issues to the building have seen a major repair job undertaken on the original dining area and guests sent through the belly of the building to the back staircase. This being Cuba there is little cause for concern – just go with the flow. Given this disruption and a simply massive demand from tourists as the fame has grown the solution has been for more parts of the building to be taken over, more dining areas to be opened up. The result is a megaplex which still manages (just) to retain its charm and authenticity while being incredibly efficient and professional. Personally I like the outdoor terrace on the third floor and I love the top floor bar. Inside a little less these days but it is all good. The food remains consistent and it is reliable. How good, I blow hot and cold. Although the kitchen has been refreshed over the years with international experience, [currently the head chefs are Manuel Cio & Pedro Rodriguez] there is a practical reality to serving two sittings every night from a very small kitchen. Things have to be prepped, dishes have to be standardised, and the show must go on. Try the seviche, gazpacho or their signature appetizer of eggplant caviar. Caimanero (fresh grouper) might come in a white-wine, orange, or sweet-and-sour sauce--all are good, as is the honey-mustard chicken and pork medallions in mango sauce. The new menu has introduced many new dishes including an eggplant tart with parmesan cheese, seafood lasagna, watermelon with grilled shrimps and chicken curry amongst others, which have refreshed what had become a little predictable fare.

JAN 2017 35

lahabana. com

magazine

6.STARBIEN____________International (expensive) Starbien serves some of the best food in Havana. For starters try the ceviche, deep fried cheese and my absolute favorite the tuna teriyaki. For mains the roasted snapper in lime juice and ropa vieja (slowly cooked shredded beef), is superb. Desserts were unavoidable once we had seen the neighbors’ chocolate torte (with dried fruit). The attractive multi-story 1930s house, with original tile floors and walls, is cool Habana in every sense of the phrase for its décor and style. Service is typically excellent with the young dynamic owner a steady presence. Indeed they are looking to expand to an adjacent place which gives an idea as to the popularity of this place where reservations are essential. My only gripe is with the indoor areas where the lighting and atmosphere is a little stale. The outdoor terrace is the place to be on the bottom floor. 7.

Santy

Fish (moderate)

Santy has expanded. Having hidden away for so many years – a friend once begged me not to write a review lest his personal favourite be over-run. And then there was Anthony Bourdain in Parts Unknown eating sushi on CNN spilling the beans. What was once a clapboard single story wooden house now has a major upstairs terrace. The neighbourhood may be tough to find, located in Jaimanitas on the Western outskirts of Havana just shy of Marina Hemingway, but the odd tour buses may give away the exact location once you get close. The atmosphere upstairs has changed, it is less intimate, less exclusive. Not worse, just different. Personally I like the new vibe. Less preening diplomats and more “normal” Cubans enjoying the food. And if you like seafood, this is the place. Absolutely the best fish restaurant in Havana Starters include fresh sashimi, home-made smoked fish and a tuna tataki. Look for the baby lobster if they have it and ask for the whatever fish has been caught that day for a main course. JAN 2017 36

lahabana. com

magazine

8.RIO MAR___________________International (expensive) Amazingly for a city by the sea Havana has precious few places to eat with a view to the deep blue ocean. Río Mar has a whole terrace overlooking the spot where the Río Almendares flows into the sea, opposite the historic 1830 Club (watch out for nights where reggaeton blasts across the bay!). This little bay is sheltered but gives you a sense and smell of the ocean without the waves. In the past year Rio Mar has expanded its outdoor terrace and even in the sweltering summer this is the place to be. Service is excellent and this is a well-run and swish establishment. Almost too much at times, it can be too pretty and not gritty enough for some with upscale prices. The food is excellent, baby Chateaubriand, lobster cocktail, spicy pork, garlic grilled fish—the menu is short but good. Drinks are reasonably priced, cocktails nicely made and the wine selection limited but with some good options.

9.DONA EUTEMIA__________Cuban-creole (expensive) Booking is imperative at this diminutive paladar in a cobblestoned alleyway off Plaza Cathedral, one of Havana’s most iconic colonial squares. Over the past year other places have opened next door giving this whole alleyway a cosy and happening feel. We still prefer the original – so keep walking to the final place on the back right. Dona Eutimia feels like it’s been here forever; its walls are crowded with decorative antique clocks, paintings and local artwork and its rooms are divided by a splendid stained-glass window. The food is classic creole chicken, pork and fish, cooked well, and there are decent fresh juices (pineapple, guava, orange and papaya). The fried malanga (a Cuban root vegetable) appetiser is not to be missed.

JAN 2017 37

lahabana. com

magazine

10.NAZDAROVIE_________________________________Soviet (expensive) For the ultimate in Soviet retro we bring you Navdrovie, from the usher, dressed in a Russian sailor suit, greeting guests at the front entrance, to its vintage Soviet propaganda posters hung all over the walls, to a Valdimir Lenin bust flanked by tall vodka bottles, and all the way to the matryoshka dolls sitting on the shelves, Nazdarovie takes USSR nostalgia to a whole new level. Since its opening in 2014 this place has established itself as a home from home for Russian tour groups, the Russian Embassy, foodies and tourists. It has appeared in countless articles in the international press and has features in various food shows on Havana. It is consistently near the top of Trip Advisor’s rankings. Apart from the Soviet nostalgia guests on the outdoor tables have an outstanding view of the Malecon – catch cocktails there at sunset. Food wise, there is an eclectic mix from the old Soviet republics, not just Russia – think Georgia and the Baltics. Classic caviar sits alongside salade olivier and homemade Russian style raviolis filled with ground beef in sour cream to pan seared spicy chicken. Each dish is well thought out and presented with exquisite garnish. VIVA LA UNION SOVIETICA!

JAN 2017 38

lahabana. com

magazine

PASEO 206 by Ricardo Alberto Pérez.

Paseo 206 opened just a few months ago but it seems to have already gained quite a following. The first thing the new owners did was to undertake a well thoughtout restoration of the building, bringing back the soul and beauty of a former residence and turning it into the incredible boutiquehostel and restaurant it is today. This process made sure that future employees would acquire a sense of ownership about the premises and thereby improve the quality of the service.

JAN 2017 39

lahabana. com

magazine

The hostel looks after all the arrangements of travellers, right from pickup at the airport in perfectly restored and functioning 1950s vintage cars. What a wonderful start for a visit to authentic Cuba.

The heart and essence of the project has the warmth of a home and the facilities of a hotel, all at the same time. There are eight rooms; four of them are more spacious than the other four, but all of them have the same degree of comfort. Two of the rooms are extra-special: one is a glass-walled room surrounded by plants and the other is located in the dome at the top of the house, boasting a splendid view that extends right out to the sea. Paseo 206 has been described as “a warm embrace between Cuba and Italy”, an effort to preserve the spiritual strength of the two countries as embodied by the current owners Andrea Gallina from Italy and Diana Sainz from Cuba. But Andrea admits that most of the spirit of their project comes from Diana.

JAN 2017 40

lahabana. com

magazine

The hosts pride themselves on their concept of experiential-travel and so they organize excursions for their guests to the fruit and vegetable markets to pick out the produce they will be eating later on. They also visit the fish market and participate in the cleaning of the fresh fish. It is an original way to explore daily life on the Island. Other excursions are also popular with foreigners: following the Hemingway Route in Cuba or exploring the neighborhoods of Centro Habana and Habana Vieja. The Paseo 206 restaurant is called Eclectico: the name reminds us that the district where it is located, El Vedado, is an eclectic one. It also alludes to the fact that Cuban products are used to create Italian cuisine. The Cuban dishes which are served are cooked in a healthier manner, going light on the oil. Pasta is home-made as is the paté de foie gras. The motto of the restaurant is “from the field to the table”: nothing could be fresher. Among the main dishes are pasta: Fettuccine alla Bolognese (tomato, ragout); Spaghetti alla Pescatora (tomato fresh seafood from local fishermen) and Gnocchetti all’amatriciana (tomato sauce, tiny Italian dumplings). Main dishes include El Cochinillo asado with market vegetables and chicken breast cooked in white wine sauce and served with baked potatoes. As an appropriate ending to the meal one can choose a delicious home-made gelato created from incomparable Baracoa chocolate.

JAN 2017 41

lahabana. com

magazine

On one of Havana’s loveliest avenues, the tree-lined Paseo, this ideal spot awaits so that your adventure in Cuba can be a perfect one.

JAN 2017 42

lahabana. com

magazine

For the New Year... Here comes December 31st and along with it season’s greetings and best wishes for friends, relatives, neighbors or acquaintances, looking back over the year ending and projecting our hopes and dreams for the coming year. Generally speaking, we always wish for health, love, peace and success…but every one of us interprets these in their own way. Some think health means having abundance in the food department (including lipids and carbohydrates) on every one of the 365 days of the year. Others think of strict diets, going on walks and working out at the gym. Yet others “firmly” promise to stop smoking or drinking. And there are those who remember, at least for a few seconds, those postponed visits to the dentist, the low-heeled, wide-toed shoes (not at all fashionable!) recommended by their orthopedic specialist and eliminating those chocolate or sweets they ate like crazy at the end of the year parties, all in preparation for future abstinence. In matters of the heart, it also gets rather complicated. Unmarried people, especially the spinsters, dream about their Prince Charming coming to get them: every year brings on a less idealized version. I have girlfriends who have some pretty strange methods such as using red underwear on New Year’s Eve and waiting for the striking of midnight on December 31st holding on to a lit red candle: not only is that uncomfortable, it’s just plain dangerous especially if you have had one too many. Married people wish for “happily ever after” even though perhaps more than a few are wishing for a quick divorce instead, the birth of a long-desired child or, in a hushed sotto voce, a small home so that they can finally leave their mother-in-law’s. And the lovers among us are promising that they will be married by the time next December 31st rolls around. JAN 2017 43

lahabana. com Peace depends on so many external factors so it’s probably better to not even mention it. But some will tell you that “inner peace” can be achieved by taking up meditation, being in harmony with the universe or subscribing to some religious faith. And what about success? It’s all a matter of your perspective. For some this means ascending the ladder at work, for others it’s being satisfied with whatever they are doing whether it is a heart transplant or fixing a carburetor. For a few it means buying, buying, buying…and letting others see that. For many others, they want to see their children move forward in their lives, have a happy home life, enjoy their aging parents, be surrounded by friends, to love and to feel loved. As the clock strikes twelve on the last day of the year, you may see someone running down the street with a suitcase: obviously success for that person means taking a trip. Where? Who knows?

magazine

As for me, I hope that next year my son starts working on his thesis, that my partner gets to see his two new books (already being edited) published, that Cuba’s GDP grows, that wars end, that transportation improves, that I will always have work (but not too much!). And once again, I promise to stop smoking.

photos by Ana Lorena

JAN 2017 44

lahabana. com

magazine

56th CUBAN BASEBALL SERIES

by Ricardo Alberto Pérez photos: Mene

With changes to its structure and especially to its schedule, the 56th Cuban Baseball Series is now in its post-season stage with four teams remaining in the competition: Matanzas, Ciego de Ávila, Granma and Villa Clara. The elimination of three legendary teams such as Industriales, Santiago de Cuba and Pinar del Río during the first stage was very exciting. Without a doubt though, Pinar del Río has the best group of pitchers on the Island.

The afore-mentioned changes to the format of the competition are linked to the need for adapting to and fitting in with the international schedule of sporting events such as the important Caribbean Series, which takes place in February, and the World Classic in March. By doing this, the training for each of these events can be done properly. In pointing out some of the outstanding moments in this championship series, I would like to emphasize the emergence of very young talent, which leads us to think of the next generation of our baseball stars, ready to play in the most demanding leagues. JAN 2017 45

lahabana. com

With changes to its structure and especially to its schedule, the 56th Cuban Baseball Series is now in its post-season stage with four teams remaining in the competition: Matanzas, Ciego de Ávila, Granma and Villa Clara. The elimination of three legendary teams such as Industriales, Santiago de Cuba and Pinar del Río during the first stage was very exciting. Without a doubt though, Pinar del Río has the best group of pitchers on the Island. The afore-mentioned changes to the format of the competition are linked to the need for adapting to and fitting in with the international schedule of sporting events such as the important Caribbean Series, which takes place in February, and the World Classic in March. By doing this, the training for each of these events can be done properly. In pointing out some of the outstanding moments in this championship series, I would like to emphasize the emergence of very young talent, which leads us to think of the next generation of our baseball stars, ready to play in the most demanding leagues.

magazine

Among these youngsters we have Yoenis Céspedes’ brother, Yoelkis Céspedes, from Granma. He has impressed us with his batting skills and running speed, which has made him the number one player for triples. In terms of pitching, we have athletes coming out of the youth league, such as Yosbel Zulueta from Villa Clara. In spite of his tender years, he shows remarkable steadiness on the mound and combines a great curve ball with an even greater fastball. Once again the characteristic explosiveness of the manager of Matanzas, Victor Mesa, has brought home good results, placing the team at the top in total points and giving them an impressive record of 42 victories and only 3 losses during the first stage. The most valuable men on the team are pitchers Yoani Yera (leader in strikeouts) and Yonder Martínez, and Jefferson Delgado (leader in hits) and Yordanis Samón. One of the characteristics of team of the Matanzas Province is that they have players from around the country.

JAN 2017 46

lahabana. com

magazine

Mesa frequently repeats the “stealing home” tactic that made him famous as a player. Sometimes this turns into a suicidal move but it revs up the excitement of the game. Even in the most adverse games, Matanzas has been seen to lead by at least 5 runs. They play a tactical game, calculated to take advantage of their opponents’ weaknesses. The other team showing character and stability is the current national champ Ciego de Ávila under the coaching of former catcher Roger Machado. He is a manger who has matured quickly and shows us his ability to go for the wins. Placing it in second ranking, Ciego’s most valuable players include pitcher Vladimir García and catcher Osvaldo Vázquez (leader in homeruns). As for Villa Clara, two of their most stellar figures in the last twenty years were let go during this series: legendary catcher Ariel Pestano and first-baseman Ariel Borrero, who is known as the “Remolcador” [Tow Truck] for his many RBIs and who was responsible for an amazing hit at the First World Classic against Dominican Bartolo Colón.

JAN 2017 47

lahabana. com

magazine

At this moment in time, the four managers are planning their strategies, faced with the possibility of requesting three more reinforcement players so that each of them can round out their rosters and thereby shore up their weaknesses and provide the Cuban fans with the exciting show they are hoping for.

JAN 2017 48

lahabana. com

HAVANA LISTINGS VISUAL ARTS PHOTOGRAPHY DANCE MUSIC THEATRE FOR KIDS EVENTS

HAVANA GUIDE FEATURES RESTAURANTS BARS & CLUBS LIVE MUSIC HOTELS PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION

magazine

lahabana. com

VISUAL ARTS

magazine

BIBLIOTECA PÚBLICA RUBÉN MARTÍNEZ VILLENA

THROUGH JANUARY 5

Varios segundos sin pestañar, by Nelson Jalil, will present small and large format pieces, along with objects that have served as inspiration to the artist for his most recent work, which is marked by a sense of abandonment and annulment expressed by representing everyday elements.

OPENS Cubanos, curated by the renowned designer JANUARY 13

MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES. EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO

THROUGH JANUARY 16

Las cosas como son, solo show by Glexis Novoa, specially conceived for the institution, exhibits large-scale paintings recently made in Havana, and graphite drawings of wall fragments, presented under a novel sculptural perspective. THROUGHOUT JANUARY

Abstractivos, exhibition of the most representative work of Pedro de Oráa, National Visual Arts Prize 2015, master of Cuban abstract art. EDIFICIO DE ARTE UNIVERSAL. MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES

THROUGH MARCH 13

Michelangelo Pistoletto, first solo exhibition in Cuba of this artist, who is considered one of the great representatives of Arte Povera, in a retrospective of his work from the 1960s to the present, including mirrorpaintings dedicated to Havana. FACTORÍA HABANA

Pepe Menéndez, seeks to show key Cuban elements of appearance and form, through pieces of diverse origin and time.

CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS

OPENS En el espacio: de lo escultórico a lo instalativo, JANUARY 23

pieces by Luis Arnal, Sandu Darie, León Ferrari, Rodolfo Krasno, Julio Le Parc y Edgar Negret, among others. Also opening is an ancillary exhibition of posters on sculptures and sculptors.

CASA DE ARTES Y TRADICIONES CHINAS

OPENS El renacer del ave fénix, by artist José Ignacio JANUARY 13

Sánchez Rius (Josignacio), recreates the Chinese horoscope and other figures and legends like the Phoenix and the panda.

CASA DEL MARQUÉS DE ARCOS

THROUGH Miradas inéditas, never before seen drawings by JANUARY 16

artists from the late 19th century and early 20th century from the private collection of Jorge Luis del Busto.

OPENS Diógenes y la luz, brings together artists Octavio Cesar JANUARY 20

Marín and José Ángel Toirac, in an exhibition, which inspired by a passage from the life of the Greek philosopher Diogenes who is said to have toured Athens under the light of the sun holding a burning candle, searching for an man Honest.

CASTILLO DE LA REAL FUERZA

THROUGH DECEMBER 17

Huellas sobre la ciudad, by painter Ileana Mulet, occupies the railings and the temporary exhibition hall of the old castle, in a loving tribute to Havana.

photos by Alex Mene Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano

JAN OCT 2016 61

lahabana. com

CENTRO DE ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO WIFREDO LAM THROUGH JANUARY 28

Muestra personal de Jannis Kounellis. This exhibition by Jannis Kounellis, founder, along with Michelangelo Pistoletto, of Arte Povera in Italy, and whose work incorporates objects and everyday materials (animals, plants, carbon, rocks, steel sheets, wool, pieces of appliquéd textile folk art fire, smoke) to refer to the course of life and its transitory condition.

magazine

CENTRO DE DESARROLLO DE LAS ARTES VISUALES

THROUGHOUT JANUARY

Verbum II, solo show by Iván Capote.

CASA JUAN GUALBERTO GÓMEZ

THROUGHOUT FEBRUARY

Al rescate del grupo Espacio 1965-1972, dedicated to the work of Yonny Ibáñez Gómez, will exhibit the faces of young painters of the Espacio group, which he was a member of , along with paintings from some members of this group of Cuban visual arts.

CASA OSWALDO GUAYASAMÍN:

OPENS Fragmentaria Tomo I, by the renowned Peruvian-Cuban JANUARY 12

artist Patssy Higuchi, focuses on the defense of women by questioning the dehumanizing stereotypes imposed on society through painting, drawing, photography, engraving, mixed media and ceramics.

CENTRO PROVINCIAL DE ARTES PLÁSTICAS Y DISEÑO

THROUGH XXI Salón de la Ciudad opens under the premise that JANUARY 22

“Havana of 2016 is unfolding in a framework in which diverse and new socio-political and economic scenarios coexist, and in which the defense of the utopias that marked several generations of Cubans are beginning to be obsolete.”

GALERÍA DEL CENTRO DE INFORMACIÓN ANTONIO MOREY

THROUGH FEBRUARY

Ele Nussa, su letra, su arte, su música is a collection of prints, drawings, publications, newspaper articles, photographs and personal objects as a tribute to the Cuban intellectual Leonel López-Nussa on his centenary.

ESTUDIO ARES

JANUARY

Alta fidelidad, caricatures made of Fidel Castro between 1954 and 2016.

OCT 2016 62

lahabana. com

PALACIO DEL SEGUNDO CABO

magazine

GALERÍA ARTIS 718

THROUGH Muestra personal, by Aluán Argüelles, who through JANUARY 27

photography and installation art explores deceptions and the loss of expectations of present day society and its repercussion in interpersonal relations.

GALERÍA HABANA

THROUGH In(mobiliario), collective exhibition with works by Marcio JANUARY 16

Almeida, Alexandre Arrechea, José Bechara, Ivan Capote, Yoan Capote, Lissette Castillo, Humberto Díaz, Glenda León, Los Carpinteros, Ernesto Neto, Wilfredo Prieto and Esterio Segura. As Diana Cuéllar Ledesma has pointed out, they explore “the relationship of artists with the living space and its articulation through domestic furniture and interior architecture; of early Paleolithic hearth (which give rise to the term “home”), evoked here through the performance of Ernesto Neto, to the drives between aesthetics, functionalism and necessity in contexts of scarcity and poverty.”

GALERÍA VILLA MANUELA

THROUGH JANUARY 2017

Non Places, is a collection of works by Juan Carlos Alom, Nadal Antelmo, Aluan Argüelles, Alain Cabrera, Humberto Díaz, Rigoberto Díaz, Felipe Dulzaides, Antonio Gómez Margolles, Ricardo Miguel Hernández, Liudmila y Nelson, Linet Sánchez and Alfredo Sarabia Fajardo.

VITRINA DE VALONIA

THROUGH JANUARY

Habana, ciudad maravilla shows the Cuban capital with graphic humor in a retrospective of over half a century de humoristic creation by caricaturists and contributors to the humor magazine Palante.

PALACIO DEL SEGUNDO CABO

THROUGH THE END OF THE YEAR

Naturalezas del Art, organized by the Réseau Art Nouveau Network, an international institution responsible for the documentation, research and protection of the World Art Nouveau heritage, aims to introduce the viewer in this style through its main features, associated with nature.

JAN 2017 63

lahabana. com

magazine

FOTOTECA DE CUBA THROUGH JANUARY 11

Eyeife, exhibition by artists Harold Ferrer and Ronald Vill.

CASA VICTOR HUGO THROUGH JANUARY 20

In Situ en la Ópera de París, by Pierre-Elie de Pibrac, offers a selection of photos that illustrate the life behind the scenes of dancers, among other topics.

SALA DE LA DIVERSIDAD DE LA SOCIEDAD CIVIL PATRIMONIO, COMUNIDAD Y MEDIO AMBIENTE JANUARY 6-20

Entre líneas, luces y sombras, group show whose guiding thread is the beauty offered by the lines, lights and shadows in different cities.

photos by Huberto Valera Jr.

PHOTO GRAPHY OCT 2016 64

lahabana. com

magazine

DANCE THW NUTCRACKER SUITE

JANUARY 1, 8, 15 & 22, 5PM; JANUARY 14 & 21, 8:30PM GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO

The National Ballet of Cuba, as it is tradition in the New Year, dances Alicia Alonso’s adaptation of Lev Ivánov’s The Nutcracker with music by Tchaikovsky. In the leading roles: Anette Delgado, Viengsay Valdés, Sadaise Arencibia, Grettel Morejón, Ginett Moncho, Dani Hernández, Patricio Revé, Raúl Abreu, Rafael Quenedit, along with Chanell Cabrera, Adarys Linares, Mareen Gil, Cynthia González, Claudia García, Yankiel Vazquez and Daniel Barba, accompanied by the company’s corps du ballet

OCT 2016 65

lahabana. com The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has expanded recently as new bars and clubs have opened party promoters have organized events in parks and public spaces. Good live music venues include Bertolt Brecht (Wednesdays: Interactivo, El Sauce (check out the Sunday afternoon Máquina de la Melancolía) and Fábrica de Arte Cubano which has concerts most nights Thursday through Sunday as well as impromptu smaller performances inside. In Havana’s burgeoning entertainment district along First Avenue from the Karl Marx theatre to the aquarium you are spoilt for choice with the always popular Don Cangrejo featuring good live music with artists of the likes of Kelvis Ochoa, David Torrens, Interactivo, Diana Fuentes, Descemer Bueno, David Blanco, just to name a few, Las Piedras (insanely busy from 3am) and El Palio and Melem bar—both featuring different singers and acts in smaller more intimate venues. BALNEARIO UNIVERSITARIO EL CORAL

FRIDAYS & SATURDAYS / 1PM-1AM Electronic music with rapping, DJing, Vjing, Dj-producers, breakdancing and graffiti writing, among other urban art expressions. CAFÉ CONCERT EL SAUCE

EN GUAYABERA

SUNDAYS / 5PM Discotemba BARBARM PEPITO’S BAR

SATURDAYS / 6PM Milada Milet

magazine

MUSIC CONTEMPORARY FUSION

HAVANA HARD ROCK

EVERY OTHER FRIDAY / 6PM Soul Train, a show of soul music SATURDAYS & SUNDAYS / 6PM Rock cover bands

SUNDAYS / 5PM La Máquina de la Melancolía, with Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto García CASA DE LA AMISTAD

SUNDAYS / 9PM Rock ’n’ Roll with Vieja Escuela. DIABLO TUN TUN

SATURDAYS / 11PM Gens SUBMARINO AMARILLO

MONDAYS / 9PM Miel con Limón JARDINES DE LA TROPICAL.

SATURDAYS / 9PM Sarao Audiovisual Project OCT 2016 66

lahabana. com

magazine

CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR ALL DAYS Popular dance music 5 PM, 11 PM MONDAYS 11 PM

Sur Caribe

FRIDAYS 11 PM

NG La Banda

SATURDAYS Lazarito Valdés y 5 PM

Bamboleo

CABARET PICO BLANCO. HOTEL SAINT JOHN’S

WEDNESDAYS / 10PM Popular dance music (Vacilón)

SALSA TIMBA DIABLO TUNTÚN

MONDAYS, WEDNESDAYS / 8PM, 5PM Popular dance music (NG La Banda) THURSDAYS / 9PM

CAFÉ CANTANTE. TEATRO NACIONAL

MONDAYS / 11PM Popular dance music (Manana Club)

Popular dance music (NG La Banda) FRIDAYS, SATURDAYS / 9PM, 5PM Popular dance music

THURSDAYS / 5PM Popular dance music CASA DE 18

FRIDAYS / 8:30PM Iván y Fiebre Latina SATURDAYS / 8PM Ahí Namá

JARDINES DEL 1830

FRIDAYS / 10PM Azúcar Negra SUNDAYS / 10PM Grupo Moncada

OCT 2016 67

lahabana. com

MUSIC

Jazz Café

Café Jazz Miramar

Mellow, sophisticated and freezing due to extreme air conditioning, the Jazz Café is not only an excellent place to hear some of Cuba’s top jazz musicians, but the open-plan design also provides for a good bar atmosphere if you want to chat. Less intimate than La Zorra y el Cuervo – located opposite Melia Cohiba Hotel.

SHOWS: 11 PM - 2AM

UNEAC JANUARY 25 5 PM

La Esquina del Jazz, hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés

magazine

This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba’s best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright—take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us.

CAFÉ MIRAMAR 10 PM

Havana in the Grand Manner, with Tamara Castañeda (vibraphonist), Oliver Valdés (percussionist), Jorge Reyes (contrabass player), Jorge Luis Chicoy (guitarist) and Ernán López-Nussa (pianist), and guests singers Daymé Arocena and Kelvis Ochoa.

CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL

JAZZ

JANUARY 14 8 PM

Ruy López-Nussa y La Academia

ASOCIACIÓN CUBANA DE DERECHOS DE AUTOR MUSICAL JANUARY 25 6PM

Alexis Bosch (pianist) and Proyecto Jazz Cubano

OCT 2016 68

lahabana. com

MUSIC

BOLERO, FOLKLORE, SON AND TROVA CASA DE 18

WEDNESDAYS / 8PM

Héctor Téllez

THURSDAYS / 8PM

José Valladares

SUNDAYS / 8PM

Leidis Díaz

CAFÉ CANTANTE, TEATRO NACIONAL

MONDAYS / 5PM Proyecto Lírico CASA MEMORIAL SALVADOR ALLENDE

DECEMBER 30 / 6PM

CABARET EL TURQUINO. HOTEL HABANA LIBRE

FRIDAYS / 11PM

Mónica Mesa

TUESDAYS / 5PM Conjunto Chappottín WEDNESDAYS / 5PM

Trova

THURSDAYS / 5PM

Conjunto Arsenio Rodríguez

FRIDAYS / 5PM

Rumberos de Cuba

SUNDAYS / 5PM

Rumba

GATO TUERTO

FRIDAYS / 5PM

La Hora Infiel, with music, visual arts, literature and more.

FRIDAYS / 9PM

Osdalgia

THURSDAYS / 4PM

Trova with Frank Martínez

SUNDAYS / 6PM

Singer Leidis Díaz

HOTEL TELÉGRAFO

FRIDAYS / 9:30PMPM Ivette Cepeda

CLUB AMANECER

FRIDAYS / 5PM Conjunto de Arsenio Rodríguez DELIRIO HABANERO

SATURDAYS / 10PM Sonyku DIABLO TUN TUN

SUNDAYS / 8PM

EL JELENGUE DE AREÍTO

CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE

Ángel Quintero and guests CASONA DE LÍNEA

magazine

ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA

FRIDAYS / 8:30PM Obbiní Batá (folkloric group) HOTEL NACIONAL DE CUBA

SATURDAYS / 7PM

CASA DE LA AMISTAD

SATURDAYS / 9PM Roberto Javier PABELLÓN CUBA

FRIDAYS / 4PM

Los Indómitos

Trovador Silvio Alejandro.

THURSDAYS / 5PM Trova with Ray Fernández

Trova HURÓN AZUL, UNEAC DOS GARDENIAS

WEDNESDAYS / 10PM

SATURDAYS / 9PM Bolero Night

LE SELECT

FRIDAYS / Grupo Moncada 9:30PM

CASA DE ÁFRICA

DECEMBER 10 / 3PM Obbiní Batá (folkloric group)

Haila María Mompié OCT 2016 69

lahabana. com

magazine

CLASSICAL MUSIC BASÍLICA MENOR DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS

CASA VICTOR HUGO JANUARY 14 5PM

Concert by the Dúo Cáliz, with Luis Manuel Molina (guitar) and Vicente Monterrey (clarinet).

JANUARY 7 6PM

Concert by the renowned pianist Frank Fernández.

JANUARY 14 15, 6PM

Leonardo Gell will present the album Piano ritual, with music for piano by composer Marvin Camacho from Costa Rica.

SALA COVARRUBIAS. TEATRO NACIONAL SUNDAYS Concerts by the National Symphony Orchestra.

JANUARY 21 17, 6PM

Performance by the National Choir of Cuba of Cuban and international works.

CENTRO HISPANO AMERICANO DE CULTURA

JANUARY 28 23, 6PM

Concert on occasion of the 18th anniversary of Habana Radio.

11AM

JANUARY 7 5PM

Concert by Ana Martin (piano) and her orchestra Habana Martin and guests.

JANUARY 28 5PM

Johana Simón and Cristina Rodríguez (sopranos), accompanied by Yanner Rascón (piano), will perform songs by Ernesto Lecuona with verses by José Martí and Juana de Ibarbourou.

CASA DEL ALBA JANUARY 8 5PM

En Confluencia, dedicated to guitar.

JANUARY 15 5PM

Young Composers.

JANUARY 22 5PM

De Nuestra América.

JANUARY 29 5PM

Seis por Derecho, with guitarist Bárbara Milián and guests

TEATRO MARTÍ JANUARY 12 7PM

Concert by the National Symphony Orchestra of Cuba conducted by Jin-Hyoun Baek from Korea, one of the most famous Asian orchestra conductors.

JANUARY 28 8:30PM

Recital by Cuban pianist and composer José María Vitier.

OCT 2016 70

lahabana. com

magazine

THEATRE

Playback

El diccionario

Ivona, Princess of Burgundia

TEATRO KARL MARX

ESPACIO IRREVERENTE

DECEMBER 22, 4PM LICEO ARTÍSTICO LITERARIO DE LA HABANA

PRODUCTION: EVA GONZÁLEZ NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, SUNDAYS AND MONDAYS, 7PM

TEATRO EL PÚBLICO / PRODUCTION: CARLOS DÍAZ

Theatrical performance of the Gigantería Group, the stilt walkers who dance all around the streets of Old Havana’s Historical center.

The piece by Spanish playwright Manuel Calzada addresses the vital conflicts of the philologist and lexicographer María Moliner, author of the Diccionario de uso del español, who at the age of 70, discovered the first symptoms of Alzheimer’s disease and begins the definition of the concept of freedom, according to what it has meant in the different dilemmas of her life.

FRIDAYS AND SATURDAYS, 8:30PM; SUNDAYS, 5PM SALA TEATRO TRIANÓN

Play by Polish dramatist Witold Gombrowicz, which, according to Carlos Díaz, director of El Público, “No adaptation is needed because it deals with Man, with the world today, although it was written many, many years ago. It also speaks of how we are and the mistakes that are made on a daily basis with injustices, which is what happens to Ivona, leading her almost to extermination.”

JAN 2017

71

lahabana. com

magazine

FOR KIDS Gigantería JANUARY 27, 3PM CENTRO HISPANO AMERICANO DE CULTURA

Performance by the Gigantería theater group.

Clowns MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES SUNDAYS, 11AM

Clowns, music and other attractions.

Zona de juego MUSEO DE ARTE COLONIAL THROUGH JANUARY 22

Group exhibition of contemporary art especially designed for children.

photos by Huberto Valera Jr.

JAN 2017 72

EVENTS IN HAVANA

lahabana. com

magazine

XX Taller Científico de Antropología Social y Cultural Afroamericana JANUARY 5–8 HISTORIC CENTER OF OLD HAVANA The opening of the cultural year at Havana’s Historical Center will be marked by the 20th Workshop on Afro-American Social and Cultural Anthropology with the presence of academicians and researchers. CASA DE ÁFRICA

JANUARY 4 9 PM

Opening of the Workshop. Show Cuentos y cantos de vida, by ContArte, and guests Daisy Brown and her group Owa Areanle. Opening of exhibitions Tataranietos de dios, by Osvaldo Ferrer, and Peregrinación, by photographer Elio Delgado Valdés and students of the Academy of Photography.

JANUARY 4 5:30PM

Launching of Imaginarios socioculturales cubanos, by Irina Pacheco Valera. Opening of Memoria emotiva, an exhibition by Nancy Cepero Dominico.

JANUARY 5 5:30PM

Launching of Robaron mi cuerpo negro, a book by Rodolfo Alpízar Castillo. Opening of the exhibition Las muerteras y los ancestros, by Itaian artist Maria Giulia Alemanno.

JANUARY 6 6:00PM

Opening of the exhibition Gelede Havana, the first exhibition of gelede art and culture in America. Opening speeches by Eusebio Leal, Historian of the City of Havana.

OCT 2016 73

lahabana. com

magazine

COLEGIO UNIVERSITARIO SAN GERÓNIMO

JANUARY 4 11AM5:30PM

Work of the commissions Tráfico Ilegal de Esclavos en Cuba y África. Procesos de Resistencia Esclava y Cimaronaje, and Cultura, Identidad y Otredad.

JANUARY 5 9:30AM

Master lecture La cultura mandinga y su repercusión en América, by Masanneh Nyugu Kinthe, ambassador in Cuba of Gambia.

JANUARY 6 9:30AM1:30PM

Work of the commissions Cultura, Identidad y Otredad, and El Papel del Museo en el Trabajo en Comunidades en el Rescate de Tradiciones.

PLAZA DE SAN FRANCISCO

JANUARY 6 2:30PM

Epiphany: Recalling an old tradition, the Afro-Cuban Council will tour the principal plazas of the Historic Center. Performances by children and youth ensemble under the Quisicuaba Sociocultural Project, Tambores de Bejucal and the traditional comparsa Los Componedores de Batea.

PLAZA VIEJA

JANUARY 6 4:30PM

Cultural gala with the performance of Pablo Menéndez and his band and guests from Johannes García’s folkloric company JJ.

CASA DE LA POESÍA

JANUARY 6 10AM

Volver a la Raíz, dedicated to the promotion of oral narration and poetry, with guests Georgina Herrera, Michelle Ricardo, Tato Quiñones, Iveth Hernández, Elier Álvarez Arcia (El Brujo), Arugbo Ashanti, Irene Emilia and the Mimo Clan Teatro Group.

JAN OCT 2016 74

EVENTS IN HAVANA

lahabana. com

magazine

Taller Práctico Internacional de la Danza Moderna Cubana, Cubadanza JANUARY 2–13, TEATRO NACIONAL DE CUBA The two-week long International Workshop on Cuban Modern Dance, Cubadanza, aimed at professional dancers and students, teaches different Cuban popular rhythms and dances from which Cuban modern dance draws on and shows how the pelvic region and the undulation of the torso, among other characteristics, are the fundamental basis of the Cuban technique of modern dance. According to the availability of the company for the period in which the workshop will take place, it will possible to attend rehearsals and demonstrative lessons with first dancers of Danza Contemporánea de Cuba.

FolkCuba JANUARY 16–29 TEATRO NACIONAL DE CUBA Sponsored by the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba, the two-week long FolkCuba, International Folklore Laboratories is held with experts in Cuban folklore dances teach Cuban dances and music of African and Spanish origin, as well as the principal Cuban percussion instruments. The “secrets” of mambo, cha-cha-cha, rumba, mozambique, pilón, conga, and dances and drum beating related to African religious rites are revealed by outstanding figures of the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba.

LVIII Premio Casa de las Américas HAVANA AND CIENFUEGOS , 16-28 DE ENERO Initiated in Havana in 1960 to draw attention to the most significant literary production in Latin America—and at a later date, the Caribbean, too—in the genres of poetry, novel, short story, essay, theatre and testimony, as well as works in other languages spoken in the region, the Casa de las Américas Literary Award has gathered outstanding figures of contemporary writing. Throughout the years, many of the prize-winning works have become classics of the continent’s literature; thus, each year’s announcement creates great expectations among the public, who also have the opportunity to attend collateral activities programmed during the event. Se concursará en novela, poesía, ensayo de tema histórico-social, literatura testimonial, brasileña y premio sobre la presencia negra en la América y el Caribe contemporáneos. As usual, jurors will travel to Cienfuegos to read the works in competition and exchange with writers and artists from the province, and the awards will be announced on January 25 and 26, at the Sala Che Guevara of Casa de las Américas. OCT 2016 75

EVENTS AROUND CUBA

lahabana. com

magazine

XXI Encuentro Nacional de Trovadores Longina JANUARY, SANTA CLARA In remembrance of one of the greats of traditional Cuban trova, Manuel Corona, and his immortal song “Longina,” trovadores of different generations and from all over Cuba have shared the stage for several years during the Festival de la Trova Longina. The program includes concerts, the usual pilgrimage to the grave of Corona and impromptu performances characteristic of bohemian environment.

JAN 2017 76

lahabana. com

magazine

HAVANA’S

best places to eat CASA MIGLIS

EL ATELIER

BELLA CIAO

CAFÉ BOHEMIA

CAFÉ LAURENT

EXPERIMENTAL FUSION

HOMELY ITALIAN

CAFÉ

SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN

Interesting décor, interesting menu.

Great service, good prices. A real home from home.

Bohemian feel. Great sandwiches, salads & juices

Attractive penthouse restaurant with breezy terrace.

Calle 5 e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025

Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7-206-1406

Calle San Ignacio #364, Habana Vieja

Calle M #257, e/ 19 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2090

CASA MIGLIS SWEDISH-CUBAN FUSION

Oasis of good food & taste in Centro Habana Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486

MEDITERRÁNEO HAVANA INTERNATIONAL Interesting and diverse menu. Beautiful terrace. Calle 13 #406, e/ E y F, Vedado. (+53) 7-832 4894 http://www/medhavana.com

INTERNATIONAL

Beautiful colonial house.Polpular place whit great food and good service.

Beautiful modern decor. Interesting menu and good service.

Calle Mercaderes No. 207 altos e/ Lamparilla y Amargura. H.Vieja (+53) 7861 2437

Calle #35 e/ 20 y 41, Playa. (+53) 7-203-8315

CORTE PRÍNCIPE

RÍO MAR

D.EUTIMIA

INTERNACIONAL

ITALIAN

INTERNATIONAL

CUBAN/CREOLE

Industrial chic alfresco rooftop with a buzzing atmosphere

Sergio’s place. Simple décor, spectacular food.

Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, Vedado. (+53) 7-832-2355

Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar (+53) 5-255-9091

IVÁN CHEF

EL LITORAL

SANTY

INTERNACIONAL

SPANISH

INTERNATIONAL

SUSHI/ORIENTAL

Calle 46 #305 esq. a 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-8337

OTRA MANERA

EL COCINERO

LA FONTANA Consistently good food, attentive service. Old school.

LOS MERCADERES

CUBAN-CREOLE

Brilliantly creative and rich food.

Watch the world go by at the Malecón’s best restaurant.

Aguacate #9 esq. a Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-863-9697

Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2201

Contemporary décor. Great seaview. Good food. Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla, Miramar (+53) 7-209-4838

NAZDAROVIE SOVIET

Authentic fisherman’s shack servicing world-class sushi.

Well designed Soviet décor excellent food & service.

Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039

Malecon #25, 3rd floor e Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947

Absolutely charming. Excellent Cuban/creole food. Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja (+53) 7 861 1332

SAN CRISTÓBAL CUBAN/CREOLE

Deservedly popular.Consistently great food. Kitsch décor. San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-9109

JAN 2017 77

lahabana. com

Santy

TOP PICK

magazine

Style of food: Sushi/Oriental Cost: Expensive Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Best for wonderful ambience overlooking fishing boats heading out to sea. Don’t Miss Fabulous sushi

Calle 240A #3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas (+53)5286 - 7039

Style of food: Soviet Cost: Moderate Type of place: Private (Paladar)

TOP PICK

Nazdarovie

Best for Getting a flavor of Cuban-Soviet history along with babuska’s traditional dishes in a classy locale. Don’t miss Vodka sundowners on the gorgeous terrace overlooking the malecon. Malecon #25 3rd floor e/ Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947

TOP PICK TOP PICK

Otra Manera

Style of food: International Cost: Moderate Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Best for Beautiful modern décor and good food. Don’t miss Pork rack of ribs in honey. Sweet & sour sauce and grilled pineapple Calle 35 #1810 e/ 20 y 41, Playa (+53) 7-203-8315 JAN 2017 78

lahabana. com

La Guarida

TOP PICK

magazine

Style of food: Contemporary fusion Cost: Expensive Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Best for Authentic, charming and intimate atmosphere in Cuba’s best known restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy. Don’t Miss Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining next to you. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana. (+53) 7-866-9047

Style of food: Traditional Cost: Moderate Type of place: Private (Paladar)

TOP PICK

Café Bohemia

Best for taking a break from long walks and seeking shelter from the stifling Cuban.. Don’t miss location in the cool inner courtyard of the colonial building. Ground floor of the Palacio de la Casa del Conde de Lombillo, Calle San Ignacio #364 (+53) 5- 403-1 568, (+53) 7-836-6567 www. havanabohemia.com

TOP PICK

Iván Chef Justo

Style of food: Spanish Cost: Expensive Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Best for Spectacular innovative food. Light and airy place where it always seems to feel like Springtime. Don’t Miss The lightly spiced grilled mahi-mahi served with organic tomato relish. Try the suckling pig and stay for the cuatro leches. Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacón, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-863-9697 / (+53) 5-343-8540 JAN 2017 79

lahabana. com TOP PICK

magazine

Corte del Príncipe Sergio’s Style of food Italian Cost Expensive Type of place Private (Paladar)

Best for Cozy atmosphere, excellent service.

Don’t miss spectacular homemade Italian pastas.

9na esq. 74, Playa (+53)5255 - 9091

Casa Miglis

TOP PICK

Style of food Swedish-Cuban fusion Cost Expensive Type of place Private (Paladar)

Best for The beautifully designed interior, warm ambience and Miglis’s personality create the feeling of an oasis in Central Havana. Don’t Miss Chatting with Mr Miglis. The Skaargan prawns, beef Chilli and lingonberries. Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana www.casamiglis.com (+53) 7-864-1486

JAN 2017 80

lahabana. com

magazine

HAVANA’S best Bars & Clubs

Corner Café TRADITIONAL BARS EL FLORIDITA Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Touristy but always full of life. Great cocktails. Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1299

1950S TRADITIONALS Guest performers include BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB MEMBERS Sociedad Rosalía de Castro, Egido 504 e/ Monte y Dragones, Old Havana (+53) 5-270-5271

SLOPPY JOE’S BAR Recently (beautifully) renovated. Full of history. Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’. Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-7157

CERVECERÍA ANTIGUO ALMACÉN DE LA MADERA Y EL TABACO

Microbrewery located overlooking the restored docks Simply brilliant. Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja

CONTEMPORARY BARS EL COCINERO

ESPACIOS

TABARISH

FAC

Fabulous rooftop setting, great service, cool vibe.

Laid back contemporary bar with a real buzz in the back beergarden.

A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service.

X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts, funky young scene.

Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado

Calle 10 #510, e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar

Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma.

Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro)

(+53) 7-832-2355

(+53) 7-836-3031

(+53) 7-202-9188

(+53) 5-329-6325 www.facebook.com/fabrica.deartecubano

JAN 2017 81

lahabana. com

magazine

CONTEMPORARY BARS/CLUBS

Sangri-La

TOP PICK

CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUBS

Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on the Havana Farundula in the most popular bar/ club.

BOLABANA

DON CANGREJO Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. Ave. 1ra e/ 16 & 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837

Packed night after night with a young dressed-up clientele wanting to party. Don’t go looking for Buena Vista Social Club! Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa (+53) 5 -294-3572

CORNER CAFÉ

SANGRI-LA For the cool kids. Basement bar/club which gets packed at weekends.

Great live music every day. very frequently by locals. Good tapas. Calle B e/ 1ra y 3ra. Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 7837 1220

Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 7-264-8343

Don’t Miss The best gin and tonic in Havana. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5-264-8343

GAY-FRIENDLY CABARET LAS VEGAS Can get dark and smoky but great drag show (11pm) from Divino—one of Cuba’s most accomplished drag acts. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 7-264-8343

FASHION BAR HAVANA

CAFÉ BAR MADRIGAL

A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show.

Pop décor, fancy cocktails, and the staff’s supercilious attitude, this is a gathering spot for all types of folks.

San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676

Calle 17 #809 e/ 2 y 4, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2433

Corner Café

TOP PICK

CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUBS

Best for Frequently by locals. Great tapas. Don’t Miss Live music every day. Calle B e/ 1ra y 3ra. Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 5-264-8343

JAN 2017 82

lahabana. com

Espacios

TOP PICK

magazine

CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUBS Best for Laid back lounge atmosphere in the garden area which often has live music. Good turnover of people. Don’t Miss Ray Fernandez, Tony Avila, Yasek Mazano playing live sets in the garden. Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7-202-2921

CONTEMPORARY

TOP PICK

Bolabana

Best for Trendy new location near Salón Rosado de la Tropica. Don’t Miss Hipsters meet the Havana Farándula. Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa

TOP PICK

Sloppy Joe´s Bar

BAR / TRADITIONAL Best for Immense original bar lovingly restored. Good service, History. Worst for Not quite grimy. Too clean. Ánimas, esq. Zulueta La Habana Vieja, (07) 866-7157 JAN 2017 83

lahabana. com

Fábrica de Arte

TOP PICK

magazine

CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUBS Best for X Alfonso’s superb new cultural center has something for everyone Don’t Miss Artists who exhibit work should demonstrate ongoing creativity and a commitment for social transformation. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro)

GAY FRIENDLY Best for A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show.

TOP PICK

Fashion Bar Havana

Don’t Miss The staff performing after 11pm San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676

TOP PICK

Bertolt Brecht

CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUBS

Best for Hanging out with hip & funky Cubans who like their live music. Don’t Miss Interactivo playing on a Wednesday evening. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 JAN 2017 84

lahabana. com

magazine

HAVANA’S

best live music venues

CONCERT VENUES KARL MARX THEATRE World class musicians perform prestigious concerts in Cuba’s best equipped venue. Calle 1ra esq. a 10, Miramar (+53) 7-203-0801

BASÍLICA SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS A truly beautiful church, which regularly hosts fabulous classical music concerts. Oficios y Amargura, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Habana Vieja

FÁBRICA DE ARTE X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts inside (small and funky) and outside (large and popular!). Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro)

SALA COVARRUBIAS TEATRO NACIONAL

Recently renovated, one of Cuba’s most prestigious venues for a multitude of events. Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Revolución.

SALSA/TIMBA CAFÉ CANTANTE MI HABANA Attracts the best Cuban musicians. Recently renovated with an excellent new sound system. Ave. Paseo esq. a 39, Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 7-878-4273

CASA DE LA MÚSICA

CASA DE LA MÚSICA

CENTRO HABANA

MIRAMAR

A little rough around the edges but spacious. For better or worse, this is ground zero for the best in Cuban salsa.

Smaller and more up-market than its newer twin in Centro Habana. An institution in the Havana salsa scene.

Galiano e/ Neptuno y Concordia, C. Habana (+53) 7-860-8296/4165

Calle 20 esq. a 35, Miramar (+53) 7-204-0447

SALÓN ROSADO DE LA TROPICAL The legendary beer garden where Arsenio tore it up. Look for a salsa/timba gig on a Sat night and a Sun matinee. Ave. 41 esq. a 46, Playa (+53) 7-203-5322

JAN 2017 85

lahabana. com

magazine

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ TATRO BERTOLT BRECHT

DON CANGREJO

EL SAUCE

Think MTV Unplugged when musicians play. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd.

Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea.

Great outdoor concert venue to hear the best in contemporary & Nueva Trova live in concert.

Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354

Ave. 1ra e/ 16 y 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837

Ave. 9na #12015 e/ 120 y 130, Playa (+53) 7-204-6428

TEATRO DE BELLAS ARTES Small intimate venue inside Cuba’s most prestigious arts museum. Modern. Trocadero e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, Habana Vieja.

TROVA & TRADITIONAL BARBARAM PEPITO´S BAR Some of the best Cuban Nueva Trova musicians perform in this small and intimate environment. Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del Zoológico. Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-1808

GATO TUERTO Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. Calle O entre 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224

TRADICIONALES DE LOS 50 The 1950s traditionals, a project created over 10 years ago, pays tribute to the Golden Era of Cuban music: the 1950s. Sociedad Rosalia de Castro, Egido #504 e/ Monte y Dragones, Havana Vieja (+53) 7-861-7761

SALÓN 1930

COMPAY SEGUNDO

Buena Vista Social Club style set in the grand Hotel Nacional. Hotel Nacional Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835-3896

JAZZ CAFÉ JAZZ MIRAMAR Clean, modern and atmospheric. Where Cuba’s best musicians jam and improvise. Cine Teatro Miramar 10:30pm – 2am Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar

JAZZ CAFÉ A staple of Havana’s jazz scene, the best jazz players perform here. Somewhat cold atmospherewise. Galerías de Paseo Ave. 1ra e/ Paseo y A, Vedado

LA ZORRA Y EL CUERVO Intimate and atmospheric, which you enter through a red telephone box, is Cuba’s most famous. Calle 23 e/ N y O, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2402

JAN 2017 86

lahabana. com

magazine

JAN 2017 87

lahabana. com

HAVANA’S

magazine

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

Best Hotels

SIMPLY THE BEST… IBEROSTAR PARQUE CENTRAL

Luxury hotel overlooking Parque Central Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-6627

SANTA ISABEL

Luxurious historic mansion facing Plaza de Armas Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201

SARATOGA

TERRAL

Stunning view from roof-top pool. Beautiful décor.

Wonderful ocean front location. Newly renovated.

Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a Dragones, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201

Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro Habana (+53) 7-862-8061

BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN OLD HAVANA FLORIDA

Beautifully restored colonial house. Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-862-4127

PALACIO DEL MARQUÉS...

Cuban baroque meets modern minimalist Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura, Habana Vieja

HOSTAL VALENCIA

Immensely charming, great value. Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1037

CONDE DE VILLANUEVA

Delightfully small and intimate. For cigar lovers. Mercaderes #202, Lamparilla (+53) 7-862-9293

JAN 2017 88

lahabana. com BUSINESS HOTELS MELIÁ COHÍBA

MELIÁ HABANA

Oasis of polished marble and professional calm.

Attractive design & extensive facilities.

Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7- 833-3636

Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar (+53) 5-204-8500

OCCIDENTAL MIRAMAR

magazine

H10 HABANA PANORAMA

Good value, large spacious modern rooms.

Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi. Modern.

Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3583

Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar (+53) 7 204-0100

FOR A SENSE OF HISTORY AMBOS MUNDOS

MERCURE SEVILLA

HOTEL NACIONAL

RIVIERA

A must for Hemingway aficionados

Stunning views from the roof garden restaurant.

Eclectic art-deco architecture. Gorgeous gardens.

Spectacular views over wavelashed Malecón

Calle Obispo #153 esq. a Mercaderes, Habana Vieja (+53) 7- 860-9529

Trocadero #55 entre Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8560

Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835 3896

Paseo y Malecón, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4051

ECONOMICAL/BUDGET HOTELS BOSQUE

DEAUVILLE

SAINT JOHN’S

VEDADO

On the banks of the Río Almendares.

Lack of pretension, great location.

Lively disco, tiny quirky pool. Popular.

Good budget option with a bit of a buzz

Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B, Reparto Kohly, Playa (+53) 7-204-9232

Galiano e/ Sán Lázaro y Malecón, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-8812

Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-833-3740

Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4072

HAVANA’S Best Hotels

JAN 2017 89

lahabana. com

magazine

HAVANA’S

best private places to stay Sueño Cubano

MID RANGE - CASA PARTICULAR (B&B) 1932 MIRAMAR 301 LUXURY HOUSE Visually stunning, historically fascinating. Welcoming. 4 bedrooms private luxury villa Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, with swimming pool Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-6203

HABANA Beautiful colonial townhouse with great location.

JULIO Y ELSA Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable.

Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-861-0253

Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana ( +53) 7-861-8027

UP-SCALE B&BS (BOUTIQUE HOSTALS) SUEÑO CUBANO

Old palace carefully restored, seven rooms, suites with bathrooms and featuring 24 hour service. Calle Santa Clara número 66 entre Oficios e Inquisidor. Habana Vieja 53 78660109 39 339 1817730

LA RESERVA VEDADO 5 luxurious rooms in a renovated colonial mansion . The tropical garden in the courtyard, ideal to eat, drink and relax. Calle 2 entre 21 y 23 numero 508. Vedado, La Habana [email protected] (53) 7 8335244 http://lareservavedado.com/

VITRALES

Hospitable, attractive and reliable boutique B&B with 9 bedrooms. Habana #106 e/ Cuarteles y Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-2607

CASA ESCORIAL

Attractive accomodations with a panoramic view of Plaza Vieja Mercaderes # 315 apt 3 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-268 6881; 5-278 6148

JAN 2017 90

lahabana. com

magazine

APARTMENT RENTALS BOHEMIA BOUTIQUE APARTMENTS

Gorgeous 1-bedroom apartment beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja (+53) 5- 403-1 568 (+53) 7-836-6567 www.havanabohemia.com

CASA CONCORDIA

Beautifully designed and spacious 3 bedroom apartment. Spanish colonial interiors with cheerful, arty accents. Concordia #151 apto. 8 esq. a San Nicolás, Centro Habana (+53) 5-254-5240 www.casaconcordia.net

TROPICANA PENTHOUSE

A luxurious penthouse with huge roof terrace and breath-taking 360 degree views of Havana and the ocean. Galiano #60 Penthouse Apt.10 e/ San Lázaro y Trocadero

SUITE HAVANA

Elegant 2-bedroom apartment in restored colonial building. Quality loft style décor. Lamparilla #62 altos e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-829-6524

(+53) 5-254-5240 www.tropicanapenthouse.com

LUXURY HOUSES VILLASOL

CASABLANCA

Rent Room elegant and wellequipped. Beautiful wild garden and great pool.

Elegant well-equipped villa formerly owned by Fulgencio Batista. Beautiful wild garden.

Calle 17 #1101 e/ 14 y 16, Vedado

Morro-Cabaña Park. House #29

(+34) 677525361 (+53) 7-832-1927 (+53) 5-360-0456

(+53) 5-294-5397 www.havanacasablanca.com

MICHAEL AND MARÍA ELENA

This leafy oasis in western Havana has an attractive mosaic tiled pool and three modern bedrooms. Calle 66 #4507 e/ 45 y Final, Playa (+53) 7-209-0084

RESIDENCIA MARIBY

A sprawling vanilla-hued mansion with 6 rooms decorated with colonial-era lamps, tiles and Louis XV furniture Vedado. (+53) 5-370-5559

Bohemia Boutique Apartments Red

TOP PICK

Best for 3 small balconies (facing the Patio of the Palace), 1 spacious bedroom with air conditioning Don’t Miss The apartment is fully furbished, plenty of light and very well ventilated. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja [email protected] (+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567

www.havanabohemia.com

JAN 2017 91

lahabana. com

magazine

Bohemia Boutique Apartments Blue

TOP PICK

Best for i1 internal balcony, 1 spacious bedroom on the mezzanine with air conditioning. Don’t Miss The apartment is fully furbished, plenty of light and very well ventilated. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja [email protected] (+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567

Sueño Cubano

TOP PICK

Best for Old palace carefully restored, seven rooms, suites with bathrooms and featuring 24 hour service. Don’t Miss Relax at any of the four terraces, feel the mellow touch of antique and original Cuban furniture.

TOP PICK

La Reserva Vedado Best for 5 luxurious rooms in a renovated colonial mansion recently Vedado. Don’t Miss The tropical garden in the courtyard, ideal to eat, drink and relax Calle 2 entre 21 y 23 numero 508. Vedado, La Habana [email protected] (53) 7 8335244 http://lareservavedado.com/ JAN 2017 92

lahabana. com

lahabana.com

magazine

THANK YOU Wishes to thank all of the following entities for their support and involvement with La Habana.com

JAN 2017 93