lahabana magazine

CUBAN

HARLEYS, MI AMOR

FEB

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LA HABANA.COM is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba arts &

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editorial Although these bikes were built in America, long they have a Cuban soul. –Abel Pez Welcome to the February 2016 Issue of La Habana magazine, which has taken over where What’s On La Habana—the definitive cultural and travel guide to Havana—left off. This month we suggest you get on your bike and ride, literally with the rest of the Harley crew for the 5th International Harley Davidson Rally, which will take place from February 5 to 7 in Varadero. Cuban Harleys, mi Amor, is the title of a fabulous new photography book of Cuba’s Harlistas by Conner Gorry, Max Cucchi and Jens Fuge. Thanks to all three for generously letting us borrow for this month’s issue, which features several extracts from the book as well as Conner’s first ride with her “Big New Dysfunctional Harley Family” and photos from Max Cucchi, who has spent years capturing some of the contradictions [of Cuba] through the Cubans who, despite ongoing scarcity of parts, have managed to keep their bikes on the road. Keeping to the Biking theme, we swap the Harley for a BMW F650s with Christopher Baker as he covers considerably more distance on a high-end tour around the eastern part of the island from Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba. Truth be told, Chris still has a soft spot for Harleys and if four of the bikes on the first Yankee motorcycle groups since the Revolution tour around Cuba end up being Harley’s—what can you do? Just in case we forget to remind you, the Habanos Cigar Festival kicks off, somewhat inconveniently [ for our publishing deadlines], on February 29th this year, so by the time of our next issue the starstudded event will be in full sway. If you have the cash, do what you can to get a ticket to the gala dinner—it promises to be a lavish affair (as it should be for 700 dollars!). Let’s see who beats Paris and Naomi in the glamour stakes this year. Elsewhere, spare a thought for the poor Caribbean sun seekers and snowbirds who came to Cuba during the wettest January on record. Cuba has managed the impossible and made Britain seem hospitable this time of year (well, almost). Definitely, time for El Nino to pack his bags back over to the other side of the Pacific. And finally, we wish you a Very Happy Valentine’s Day, 2016. Share the love but don’t get caught! Abrazos! The LaHabana.com Team About our new look In January we introduced our new logo, look and feel. If you look closely, you’ll see it’s not a huge departure from the original Cuba Absolutely logo. Rather we’re staying close to our roots, whilst we position ourselves for an expansion into the digital realm with LaHabana.com. We will continue to expand our monthly themes while maintaining the popular “What’s On” section as an integral part of the Magazine. In the coming months we will bring online weekly updates on what to see and do in…La Habana. Please send us your feedback and comments.

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february 2016

Cuban Harleys, mi amor

Harley-Davidson in Cuba: Then, Now, Forever p8 Meeting some famous Harlistas p13 My big, new dysfunctional Harley family p23 A New Edition of the Cuban Harley Davidson Biker “Convention” in Varadero p26 The Rise, Fall and Survival of Harley Davidsons p29 Harley-Davidson Mechanics p32

Motorcycling through Cuba

On the road from Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba p34 Chasing Che: Motorcycling through Cuba p36

2016 Habanos Cigar Festival Preview

With Sir Terence Conran at the Festival del Habano p40 Cuban cigar bands: another expression of fantasy p42

Other

Che: a face and its language p44 Valentine’s Day in Cuba p47

Havana Listings

Visual Arts p49 — Photography p51 — Dance p52 — Music p53 — Theatre p61 — For Kids p62

Havana Guide

Features - Restaurants - Bars & Clubs - Live Music Hotels - Private Accommodation p70

This opulent photography book illustrates some of those contradictions through Harlistas, those Cubans who ride American Harley Davidson motorcycles despite the economy of scarcity which predominates on the island. For almost 60 years when it was impossible to buy spare parts, these bikers kept their Harleys on the road – they are ingenious, totally on their own, and full of tricks.

“Although these bikes were built in America, long they have a Cuban soul” –Abel Pez

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Extract from the Book Cuban Harleys, Mi Amor By Max Cucchi, Conner Gorry & Jens Fuge http://cuba.backroad-diaries.de/english/

Harley-Davidson in Cuba: Then, Now, Forever

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by Conner Gorry photos courtsey Max Cucchi Cuba's Digital Destination

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New love, the birth of a child, a hard-fought goal reached: There are experiences in life that awaken dormant memories and drive the desire to make new ones. Such rarified moments are nothing short of harmonic convergence, when nostalgia, hope, and history meld into possibility. Anyone who has walked Havana Vieja’s cobblestone streets or snaked around La Farola, Cuba’s most famous road, has born witness to this convergence. The same can be said for anyone who has pulled out of a hill-hugging curve and thundered down the open road on a Harley-Davidson. The freedom and power are extrasensory – a liberation of mind and spirit provided by precision mechanics and timeless design. Where Cuba and Harleys come together is more than harmonic convergence – it’s unparalleled alchemy. Like many game-changing innovations, the first Harley-Davidson prototype was built at home – by Arthur Davidson and brothers Walter and William S. Harley in 1903. Within four years, they founded the Harley-Davidson Motor Company, a name which has come to symbolize American spirit and ingenuity. Links between the United States and Cuba in the early 20th century were among the strongest and most fluid in the two countries complex history. Not surprisingly, within a decade

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of the companys founding, Harley-Davidsons could be seen cruising the Cuban streets. Harley history in Cuba has been lived and written by many people the length and breadth of the island, with the largest concentration of the socalled Harlistas in Havana, Matanzas and Santa Clara. From 1917 on the first Harley-motorcycles and parts went on sale at the historic Harris Brothers store in Havana Vieja as well by Pujol Soler in Santiago de Cuba. Unfortunately, the bike business wasn’t kind to both of the dealers, who sold their franchise to the Bretos’, a family of motorcycle dealers from Santiago de Cuba; legends were poised to be born, history was in the making. The name Bretos, and in particular that of patriarch José Luis Bretos, himself a Harley-rider, has become synonymous with Harley-Davidson in Cuba. The family dealership, located at San Lázaro #314, became the islands hub for Harley-culture and almost all the antique bikes rode in Cuba today originated from this showroom. According to dealership records, Bretos, the sole distributor on the island, sold some 500 Harleys in the 1940s and 50s alone. What’s more, a few veteran riders still kicking around were friends and clients of the Bretos’.

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This was considered the Harley-hey day, when Cubans with the means upgraded to faster, more comfortable bikes – like the ones featuring the spring-action Buddy Seat – as soon as they became available. Silvio Jesús del Fresno of Matanzas remembers his father, Benigno González, who got his first bike (a Baby Harley) at age 18, buying a new Harley almost every year from José Luis Bretos. Matanzas was a Harley-hot spot throughout the 1940s and 50s, when aficionados like González, Victor Ashman, Cheíto Puig and other young Matanceros would go on regular rallies and road trips, sometimes even traveling to the United States to convene with their northern brethren. “My father rode his Harley the length and breadth of Cuba”, says Silvio. “I’ll never forget the day a friend brought a Harley to the house and put it in front of him after he was too old to ride. I watched the tears stream down his face. It was very moving.” By the 1950s, Harleys were all the rage in Cuba, largely thanks to Bretos, his team of talented mechanics, and the feats of the Team Acrobática – a daredevil group of police officers who crisscrossed the island performing death-defying tricks on their hogs. Historians estimate there were over 150 Harleys in Havana alone at this time. Fleets of Baby Harley-Super 10s and Hydra Glides could be seen plying the streets delivering goods and groceries to customers or dropping off the latest Hollywood movie reels at local cinemas. New riders meanwhile, favored the GE ServiCar for its smoother, quieter ride provided by innovative two-cylinder Mellow Tone technology. In 1951, Harley-Davidson manufactured 6  000 of its 74FL models. Harley-riders the world over – including in Cuba – bought these moderatelypriced motorcycles in droves. Luis Bretos capitalized on HD’s popularity, further honing his successful marketing strategy and improving the efficient delivery of his bikes to customers across the island. He organized rallies from Pinar del Río to Holguín and Harleys were popular features of Havanas annual Carnival parades. But the party was about to come to a crashing halt …

A savvy businessman with considerable resources, Bretos struck a sweet deal with the police and armed forces to supply them with motorcycles – a sales strategy also implemented in the United States at the time. As a result, the Harley-star was ascending fast, on both sides of the Straits. Bretos combined popular promotional events including cross-country rallies and races, with aggressive marketing of new models rolling out of the HD factory in Wisconsin like the FL Hydra Glide with Panhead motor, to lucrative effect.

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When the Revolution triumphed in 1959 and the USA imposed an economic blockade, Cuba’s Harley-dealership closed. Parts and resources for maintaining the bikes dried up and Harlistas across the island suffered. So began a new era for Cuban Harley-riders, who harbored the same passion for their bikes, despite the new conditions. The Cuban Government reacted in its very own way and dispersed all Harleys from the streets which had been operated by the Police by then. It may be the most sad chapter in Cuban Harleyhistory when a hole was dug right in middle of the baseball field of the Boniato prison near Santiago in which all the completely operable bikes were pushed

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by a bulldozer. The vintage bikes still rest there under a cover of concrete. The old Harlistas are sure that this sacrilege would not have happened if at that time the popular revolutionary leader Camillo Cienfuegos would still have been alive. The Comandante who shortly before that had had an accident is said to have purchased the last new Harley in Cuba and used to be himself an enthusiastic biker. Harlistas on the island overcame the lack of parts and kept their bikes on the road by adapting and inventing. But not all were willing or able and many traded in their Harleys for other, inferior bikes that were easier to maintain. These were sad, distressing times and you’ll still hear people say “I had a Harley, but exchanged it for a Vejovina” – a heart-wrenching phrase for any Harlista within earshot. A culture of invention and innovation grew among a cadre of cunning mechanics – many of whom you’ll read about in these pages, including the legendary José Lorenzo (Pepe Milésima) – who adapted parts from other cars and motorcycles and fashioned tools from scratch. This mechanical brilliance and creativity is still exhibited every day in garages and workshops across Cuba and is why close to 100 Harleys from before 1960, including the two oldest – from 1936 and 1937 – still cruise the Cuban streets. The camaraderie forged by the difficulties

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of Harley-ownership on the island, combined with riders’ dedication to the brand, have created the vibrant family of Harlistas Cubanos in existence today. A veritable renaissance of Harley-culture is underway in Cuba, coalescing around clubs like the at the time being ten local chapters of the Latin American Motorcycle Association (LAMA) and annual events including the Varadero Harley-Rally. Likewise, the Day of the Fallen Biker, a Fathers Day tradition where Cuban bikers caravan from the Malecón to the Colón Cemetery in Havana to pay tribute to bygone bikers and lay flowers at the tomb of Pepe Milésima, is a popular annual event. Journalists started taking an interest and writing articles about Cuban Harley-culture. Little by little, motorcycle magazines and manuals started trickling in, augmenting Cuban Harlistas’ mechanical knowledge and informing them about biker culture elsewhere. Some international support began arriving as other Harlistas around the world learned of their Cuban brethren; though small, it was symbolic and provided hope. In 2006, MC-Travel (Denmark) arrived in Cuba with riders and their bikes – the first Harleys to arrive in Cuba since 1962. This was a huge leap forward, not only for the cultural exchanges between foreigners and Cubans it provided, but also the channels it opened for Cuban Harlistas to

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obtain parts and technology. Similarly, the movie “Cuban Harlistas” introduced audiences around the world to Harley-culture on the island; more aid began arriving, like the Metzeler tires from Italy brought by MC-Travel. Then “HD Around the World” appeared, spreading the word and passion of Cuban Harlistas even further. As a result of all this exposure, Harley-Davidson rentals became available in Cuba in 2011 and many bikers from far and wide have visited Cuba in cultural exchanges. The next era of Harley-Davidson in Cuba began in 2004: Ever since then some Harlistas and other Riders meet once a year in Varadero in order to party together. 2012 this was professionalized and the First International Harley-Rally (Havana – Varadero) had a great press feedback. No matter what comes next for Cuban Harlistas, they are now known and respected worldwide for their steadfast dedication to restoring and preserving their Harleys and to preserve the spirit that unites them. Like Cuba itself, there’s something undeniably unique and alluring about a Harley-Davidson. Says Cheíto Puig, at 104, the islands oldest surviving Harlista: “There are a lot of motorcycles in the world. But none are as well constructed, sexy, or desirable as a Harley-Davidson.”  We couldn’t agree more.

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Meeting some famous Harlistas

Extract from the Book Cuban Harleys, Mi Amor By Max Cucchi, Conner Gorry & Jens Fuge

http://cuba.backroad-diaries.de/english/

David Blanco David Blanco is one of Cuba’s most famous artists. He’s at home on stage, as well as astride his Harley. Since he was a child, he has loved Rock ’n’ Roll and Harley-Davidson. One day when his brother saw a bike for sale in the house of an acquaintance, he bought it, making a dream come true. I changed the color, the saddle and the handlebars, transforming it into chopper-style. That was more my style. Except for this, everything is original. It even has the old generator. The feeling riding this old bike is just great. For me, Harley is the horse of Rock ’n’ Roll. When it breaks down, it affects me; it pisses me off. Despite the permanent lack of spare parts, it’s funny whenever we find parts in some Russian car that we can use to fix the Harley. And it’s great to see them running afterwards without problems. Even if I could have a brand new Harley, I wouldn’t; I would keep my old bike instead, because I love it. David has become one of the most popular ambassadors of Harley culture in Cuba. This is due to his faithful attendance at the annual Harley Rally in Varadero, where he always holds a concert and because he features his old bike in some of his videos. This is proof of his passion, lifestyle and the way he thinks.

Photo by Ana Lorena

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I like the solidarity among bikers, this opens your mind, in the same way the country is starting to open itself. I try to do the same thing with my music: to agitate for open-mindedness.

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Photo by courtsey Max Cucchi

Sergio Morales Esquivel Ribbons of piquant blue smoke envelop Sergio Morales as he smokes another uncut Cuban cigarette in his Havana garage. His face, deeply etched from years of hard work and play makes plain that he is one of Cuba’s elder Harley statesmen. Indeed, the Harley Museum in Milwaukee, Wisconsin has a plaque recognizing his dedication to, and passion for, the American-made motorcycles; Sergio is the only Cuban to have received such an honor, along with his wife Miriam, also named on the plaque. In Cuba, reverence for Sergio’s mechanical prowess and first-hand knowledge of Harley history on the island is unsurpassed. Like many of the older generation of riders, he learned working beside the magisterial Harlista Pepe Milésima. I bought my first Harley-Davidson in 1972—it was cheap. No one wanted them back then. That year I met Pepe Milésima when he took a job at the Toledo Sugar Mill where I was working. It was a weird coincidence: I had just bought my bike and one day my co-workers were talking about the new guy who showed on a beautiful red hog. I went to see what the fuss was about and there it was: a gorgeous, super clean white Knucklehead with red trim. From that moment, Pepe and I were friends, working together every day and fixing Harleys at his house. So many of us learned from Pepe—Lázaro, Villaba, Osvaldo and Salmerón. Pepe was the old timer who helped young guys like us, just coming up. He taught us and shared his ideas. He didn’t charge anyone for his work. He did it to help other Harlistas. That was Pepe Milésima. Sadness besets Sergio as he talks about his friend and mentor who died in 1991. He lights another cigarette and tells of selling his first bike and helping Pepe repair five others before upgrading to his own Knucklehead—the same bike he rides today with Miriam on the back. A veritable depository of Cuban Harley lore, Sergio knows perhaps better than anyone the difficulties bikers on the island faced in the old days. Times were hard: gas was scarce, but luckily, Harleys run on anything. We used to mix gas and alcohol and sometimes kerosene—anything we could find! We were forced to make lots of adaptations to our bikes, but we did it with gusto, anything to keep our Harleys running! We made our own parts—pistons and rings, bolts, everything. Sometimes we adapted parts from other bikes like Gaz-51s and Moto Guzzis. I remember one time I got a flat outside Pijirigua, a small town 75 km west of Havana. The tire was from a Soviet anti-air cannon; that’s what we could get our hands on and so that’s what we used! There was no garage around; there wasn’t even a gas station, so we took off the tire and stuffed it with grass. We packed it in until it couldn’t take anymore and made our way home on that grassfilled tire. Nowadays there are flat-fixers everywhere and you can just hop from one to another adding air until you’re home…

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Times in Cuba have changed dramatically—today there are not only gas stations with air everywhere, but also different motorcycles available. Plus, parts are easier to find for the ubiquitous Suzuki and Jawa bikes, making one wonder: why doesn’t he change allegiances; wouldn’t one of these other bikes be a hell of a lot easier? Harley’s are the most obedient motorcycles. You can introduce any practical adaptation and Harleys respond; a Harley also won’t strand you by the side of the road—even if it’s only working on one cylinder, it will get you home. But it’s more than that. Harleys have an unparalleled elegance. Wherever you go kids, adults—everyone—stops to admire their magnificent beauty and majesty. Each and every one of us is proud to be a Harley owner. A walking encyclopedia of Harley history and restoration, Sergio Morales dreams of the day when there’s a Harley dealership in Havana—a place where enthusiasts can test drive these majestic machines, exchanging opinions and experiences. In short, he dreams of the next generations of Harlistas carrying on the tradition started by Pepe Milésima. A co-founder of the Cuba chapter of the Latin American Motorcycle Association and its first President, Sergio also dreams of cruising by that dealership on a 1947 Flathead.

Photo by Y. del Monte

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Ernesto Guevara March Photo by courtsey Max Cucchi

—full of passion and love for the old bikes. He loves fixing bikes more than his job as a lawyer and so he tries to earn his money as a mechanic instead as a lawyer.

He rides his bike every day. He takes the bike to work, to shop, to meet his friends or to take his daughter to school. And in case the old lady has one of her booboos she’s fixed by the side of the road until she starts and rides again. No problem! Ernesto also loves to ride with his friends. Every now and then they make trips to the mountains around Pinar del Río where they also spend the weekend. Ernesto has also traveled abroad, where he’s had the opportunity to experience the feeling that connects Harley riders around the globe. At last, he followed in the footsteps of his father, taking a motorcycle trip across Argentina, partially following the route the young “Che” had taken on his Norton in 1952. Photo by courtsey Max Cucchi

Adriana Domínguez León

—something she encourages by example as she roars down the highway on her 1945 Harley. I’m the adventurous type and have been into motorcycles since I was a teenager. I loved the freedom they represented and hung around with a group of friends who rode Russian bikes—Jupiter and Minsk, mostly. In 2003, my husband Fernando bought a Harley and I rode on the back—not a good place for me! I was always fighting with him about how he drove and we were always bickering. In 2004, he gave me the 750cc ’45 pictured here for my birthday. It takes coordination, balance, and skill to drive an antique Harley—it’s not easy—but I prefer them to the modern bikes. I drive pretty cautiously, but it’s such a rush, gives me such a sense of freedom, to ride fast on these loud, powerful bikes that never fail to turn heads when they pass. There’s no mistaking the sound of a HarleyDavidson! I prefer highway riding because Harleys are built for speed and I like to drive fast. Havana’s streets, with all the potholes and traffic, are hostile to motorcycles, which is another reason I prefer taking to the open road. At first there were a lot of doubts about a woman driving a Harley here. Some of the resistance came from other riders who felt their position as kings of the HD world was threatened by a female rider. But I don’t care what other people think and over time I earned respect from my friends and other riders who celebrate my dedication to Harleys. Cuban women who want to ride often come to me for counsel, wondering how heavy they are and how hard they are to drive. That’s a positive sign. My feeling is we need to recapture the feeling of solidarity among all kinds of bikers in Cuba. There have been a lot of divisions and difficulties over the years, but I think we all have to support one another and help each other out.

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Francisco Brizuela Montejo (Paco) Photo by courtsey Max Cucchi

—it was incredible and emotional, that team of Harley trick riders. Also, my neighbor was a motorcycle cop who rode a Harley, which had something to do with it.

I got my first bike—a BSA— when I was 24. In 1979, I finally realized my dream of owning a Harley when I bought a 1200cc from 1950. I bought a chassis and a muffler and repaired, restored, and customized that bike myself. In just three months, we were rolling and since then, this bike has been my only mode of transportation. It takes me wherever I want to go and never leaves me stranded by the side of the road. God willing, I’ll be a Harlista until the end.

Hector Cabrera Martínez When you hear the sound of an engine amidst tomatoes, bananas, sweet potatoes and garlic, it’s not necessarily a tractor. And although farmer Hector toils the whole day in the fields in Santo Domingo (not far from Santa Clara), he swaps the Photo by courtsey Max Cucchi tractor for his 1951 Panhead when the bug bites and goes on a cruise just for fun. The times when the Harley transported he and his daughter every week to the hospital in order to cure her from a dangerous illness are thankfully over. For two years we rode the 220 kilometers to Havana every week in order to save the life of my daughter. Now she has come through the whole thing and now I love the bike all the more. And although I was very poor at that time and many people wanted to buy my bike, I never gave away my Harley. I always dreamt of this bike and even now when I s go on a cruise, it’s like a dream for me. For a long time he had been dreaming of owning a Harley; in addition to working in the fields, he had to sell garlic by the side of the road before he had enough money to buy it. His neighbor, a beekeeper, sold the bike to him which, after almost 25 years, still fascinates him with its power and its sound.

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Antonio Miniet Hernández

Photos by courtsey Max Cucchi

—a division of the police force which performed hair-raising tricks and dangerous maneuvers of derring—do for Cubans across the island until the Team was disbanded in 1968. Recalling those days, Miniet’s face, etched by life’s road map, lights up, his eyes dancing with the memories.

I started riding motorcycles when I was 17, I rode Triumphs and other English bikes, but when I joined the police force, I rode a Harley-Davidson for the first time. From that moment I never wanted to ride anything else. I bought old parts and piece by piece rebuilt my first Harley—a beautiful bike from 1952. My second bike was my first bride. It was from 1957 and absolutely gorgeous—so gorgeous, that the head of the Ministry of the Interior offered me a car in exchange! I was a motorcycle mechanic with the police and knew those Harleys inside and out. When I was 25, I helped establish the Acrobatic Team. There a had been a smaller, more casual team before which did simple tricks and moves, but in 1959 a team of acrobats came from the United States to perform. They had some fantastic numbers and we started to think about forming our own team to do dazzling, dangerous tricks. We performed all over the country, in carnivals, at state functions, and in small towns— some where no one had ever seen a motorcycle before, let alone riders jumping through hoops of fire or a pyramid of ten men on two bikes. There were 45 of us on the team, with a repertoire of 23 tricks. We did some very difficult, risky things. I remember one time we were performing “The Ladder” for a highlevel delegation headed by Fidel. I’d done this trick a million times—a 10-foot ladder is strapped to the bike, I put it in gear and let her roll at about 35 km per hour, climbed to the top of the ladder and rode along, arms opened wide. That day, I was atop the ladder passing the grandstand and saluted Fidel. But when I went to grab the ladder, I don’t know what happened … I couldn’t find a hold and toppled off. The motorcycle sped headlong, crashing into the crowd. No one died, but I was rushed to the hospital. When my mom saw the accident on the news, she had a heart attack and was rushed to the same hospital where we recovered side-by-side. The doctor told me to cease and desist with these acrobatics because while they may not kill me, they would definitely kill my mother. That was the last time we performed “The Ladder.”

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Another number we called the “Suicide Trick.” I raced at high speed towards a phalanx of motorcycles in a V formation that would ever so slowly open as I approached. I broke a couple of ribs the last time we did that one. We had some real crowd pleasers, like our record-breaking “Pyramid.” We’d use old school cruise control, putting the bike in gear with the throttle open so it would roll along solo. Then we’d pile as many men as we could on that bike in a pyramid. Our piece-de-resistance was a pyramid with four bikes at the base and 18 men on top. It’s one of my proudest memories. Cuban police rode Harley-Davidsons until 1968. I suggested the force switch to Moto Guzzis once Harleys became impractical due to the US embargo. I remember test driving one of the Italian bikes with the Minister of the Interior. As he rode around the Plaza de la Revolución, he shouted: “but this isn’t even close to a Harley!!” I was a daredevil. I played with Harleys; I raced and jumped and made up tricks. Harleys are the Cadillac of motorcycles. They’re the hardest working and most beautiful. I miss riding. I wish I had a Harley here to ride right now. Miniet and 20 or so other former members of the Police’s Acrobatic Team still meet a couple of times a year in Havana to pore over photos of their feats and relive the good old days.

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Ronmel Calzadilla Photos by courtsey Max Cucchi

As a boy, Ronmel was regularly sent to the baker; his mother never knew when he would return. Because the little boy not only bought bread, but used to watch a man who worked on his HarleyDavidson there. And he did not leave until the man had finished his job and took off. His mother scolded him, no doubt, but he was infected.

It took another 18 years until he owned his own Harley. He disassembled the bike completely in order to get to know it. He could do this because he had interrupted his medical studies in order to become a mechanic—it was more of his world. I learned everything from a Harley repair manual. In Cuba we call it mata burros—“Kill the Donkey.” This means you cease to be an ignorant donkey by studying the appropriate literature. He became a member of LAMA (and later became President of the Holguín chapter) and made new friends. Ronmel is enthusiastic about the trips they take together and says that they love when something breaks during the ride so that he can repair it. He explains how you can repair a flat tire with a little bit of fuel and an old cylinder head and that they miss it when nothing happens to the antique bikes. During his life he has owned 31 motorcycles and 34 cars but his Harley is, and remains, something unique. Hearing a Harley engine makes me shiver. Over and over again. You get a feeling for the engine but also the engine has to get a feeling for you. You can feel it, touch it, kiss it—like a woman. It's in your blood and nobody can take it away from you. A dictionary doesn’t have enough words to explain that. We’ve got a saying: Take my car, my house, my wife—but not my Harley.

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Javier Jesús Fernández López Javier lives in the countryside near Camagüey. His face is framed by a mighty beard, his hands never stop gesticulating and are restless when he talks about his life and his Harley. Javier is a hunter, farmer, English teacher, philosopher, mechanic and Harlista. He cites the national poet José Martí: “The small river rising from the mountain range is what I prefer instead of the sea”, and he transfers this philosophy to his life with Harley-Davidson. I like the originality of the Harley, rather than the business and show. That’s why I would prefer riding into the woods instead of to Varadero because I don‘t like the fuss they make about it. I also don‘t need pictures on the wall—Harley is deep inside me. He also doesn‘t like pictures of his many trips through the country—he doesn‘t need them. One day he rode with his brother Omar to Havana in order to visit the famous Pepe Milésima. Their Harleys were in a pitiful condition which caused the other bikers to make fun of them, nicknaming them the “little hicks.” When we’re on a trip we always have that bad feeling: When is something going to break? How far will we get today? That‘s why I never was able to enjoy riding—it was a mixture of joy and concern. On the other hand, you’re always remain engaged. When you ride a BMW nothing happens. When you arrive with a Harley the dogs bark at you, the horses run away and the kids hide. Since he was a student who did not have enough money, his family helped him out when he bought his first Harley. Now, he owns five of these old bikes and of course, they don‘t all work—due to lack of money. So Javier fixes the machines here and there and as a consequence there is always something to do. As of this writing, he is assembling a cross country truck—his latest project. He has been waiting for a permit for seven years, which annoys him a lot, of course. But again he answers by citing Martí: “Humans must suffer. And in the case that he has no real problems, he creates them.”

Photos by courtsey Max Cucchi

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Luis Enrique González Sáez Right in the heart of Havana, in a villa which is located in the venerable Vedado neighborhood, there you will find one of the biggest collections of antique Harleys in Cuba. The owner, the energetic Luis Enrique, is one of the ingenious mechanics who assembled Harleys during the country’s very lean years, when everything possible was used to fix or reconstruct the beloved Harleys. This was instrumental in keeping the Cuban Harlistas spirit alive. We used valves from a Russian Kamas-Truck. Cylinders from a Russian Gas 69-Off-Road-Vehicle would also fit, albeit with slight modifications. Exhaust pipes were built from old transformer parts. Rollerchains for the propulsion system could easily be assembled from old drive chains which we got from a shut down Coca-Cola factory. And because 15-inch tires were the only tires we could get, Harley wheels where adapted to the respective size. Scarcity is the mother of invention. His favorite bike is a 1946 Knucklehead. He owns it only because the previous owner's family disregarded his wish to be buried with it when he died. So Luis bought it and has enjoyed riding that bike ever since. He met his father very late. But he learned that his father had been a mechanic, too. In so doing, he understood why he was so familiar with these bikes from the beginning. When I ride my Harley I feel like the king of the world. You can feel so much … it’s just indescribable. Harley-Davidson offers me a lot of possibilities. I’ve met so many people who were full of enthusiasm and positive energy, I went to Europe—this changed my life. It is a pity that the number of Harley owners decreases year by year. I hope that our culture stays alive.

Photos by courtsey Max Cucchi

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My big, new dysfunctional Harley family by Conner Gorry, photos by Ana Lorena and Alex Mene I sometimes muse on how similar Havana (my adopted city) is to New York (my birth city): the garbage and grit; taxi drivers with higher degrees; the self-contained neighborhoods – it all feels very familiar. Another characteristic both cities share is they teem with subcultures worthy of an urban anthropologist. Poets and punks, gym rats and drunks, shylocks, gamblers, sluts and thieves: here, like there, we’ve got the full spectrum of human passions, vice and interest crashing together like waves on the Malecón. This past weekend, I was thrust into one of Cuba’s most prismatic and emblematic subcultures and scenes: I rode along on the country’s first Harley rally, when over 50 riders made their way to Varadero on pre-1960 bikes from as far as Pinar del Río and Camagüey for three days in hog heaven. As you may imagine, my muse was working overtime in this new and captivating environment, populated by cool people with their own language and subtext. Since everything I know about biker culture I learned from Easy Rider and Altamont, I was keen to experience the 1ro Encuentro Nacional de Harlistas Cubanos firsthand. And I wasn’t disappointed. Al contrario: I was inspired and surprised. Because although as a group these folks cultivate and maintain an identity wholly dedicated to, nay obsessed with, Harley Davidson, they remain, al fondo, 100% Cubano. If you know Cuba from the inside, you know this subculture phenomenon – be it goth, gay, or black – hasn’t always fit in well or properly with the macro unity concept that is the glue for us here in one of the world’s last bastions of socialism. Of course, when there’s USAID or other sovereignty-

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compromising dollars in the middle, peor todavía. Worse still with reason since I believe all human relations should be driven by mutual respect, regardless if it’s in the realm of sex, economics, culture or politics. In short: you don’t tell me how to live, work or play and I’ll return the favor. What was even more striking still was that on the whole, these Cuban bikers are more closely connected to their global counterparts and importantly, their US brethren, than any other community I’ve encountered here. As a group, they speak (almost) as much English as the slickest jineteros and what’s more, the main biker groups here – LAMA and Harlistas Cubanos – have foreign membership, long timers like me who live here and love bikes. And the mix works seamlessly because beyond the bikes, gear, and foreign presence, what grounds and unites these folks is their Cubanía, with all the idiosyncrasies good and bad that implies. Even before we rumbled out of Guanabacoa towards Varadero, the gossip was flying. And believe me: these Harley folks are more chismoso than a kitchenful of bored housewives. I learned all about Antonio’s marital strife; the petty divisions and squabbles among different riders and groups; and how Vladimir got his hog and Oscar lost his. Thanks to the gossip mill, I was privy to the anonymous alcoholic’s struggles and how much Fulano paid for the silicon tits and ass of his funny, sexy, back seat Betty. The grapevine was heavy with juicy fruit, but what impressed me the most was the handful of folks who didn’t gossip. Those are the ones to ponder further, I figure – above all because I abhor gossip as an entirely negative pursuit. With the anti-chismosos, I’d found my people.

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What also struck me as totally Cubano was the fury for everything with the Harley Davidson logo. I know brand loyalty is common to riders the world over, but Cubans can go overboard like nobody’s business – especially when it comes to logos and bling. And this was no different: there were boots, belts, shirts, jackets and vests, jewelry, headbands, bandanas, flags, stickers, and business cards all emblazoned with the Harley label. Boy, did I ever look out of place with my Hawaii-kine style, particularly when everyone was throwing devil horns and I’m waving the shaka. But while I may have looked out of place, not for a moment did I feel out of place – another sign you’re hanging with Cubans.

If you know this place and manage well in Spanish, you know that there is no one who can make and appreciate a good joke like Cubans – especially when the joke’s on you. And these bikers are tremendous jokers – jodedores constantly dando cuero. No one is spared, least of all me, and these Harlistas ribbed me good-naturedly at every opportunity: about how I leaned into curves (not that well, apparently; ¡que pena!); about my addiction to roasted pork; and my penchant for hopping on the back of anyone’s motorcycle, anytime. I’m sure they have words in biker parlance for promiscuous back seat bitches like I was this weekend, but in my case, it ended with a forged love note that had everyone busting a gut. But at least I fared better than another foreigner who had his gold chain vicked by a muchacha ‘fren’ giving him a massage; he never heard the end of it. But what most drove home the Cubanía for me was that bedrock Cuban principle driving relations on-island and off which these folks have in spades: what matters above all else is family. Blood, extended, new and departed. And it wasn’t only the adorable kids along for the ride (many in mini Harley gear), but how you know your back is covered when someone falls ill or that someone will lend a hand when you need a new part, mechanic, or lover and an ear when you’re down. As a group, the Harlistas Cubanos function as one big, complicated – dysfunctional at times, but happy all the same – family. United by their love for their bikes, the road, and their patria.

Conner Gorry is one of the most insightful writers about Cuba. Author of Here is Havana blog (http:// hereishavana.com/), she is also the founder of Cuba Libro, an ethically- and socially-responsible business and the only English-language bookstore and café on the island.

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A New Edition of the Cuban

Harley Davidson “Convention” Biker in Varadero

photos by Ana Lorena Alex Mene We could say that within the Cuban context, our Cuban Harley Davidson bikers, or “harlistas” as we call them, have managed to become a fairly wellrecognized social group. I think this has a lot to do with the extraordinary passion they bestow upon every one of their bikes. On February 5th, 6th and 7th in 2016 they will be getting together again in Varadero, Matanzas, during the Fifth National and International Harley Davidson Rally. The encounter has the special feature of not having been organized by any one specific bike club and so anyone who owns a Harley in Cuba or any other country may take part as well as owners of other makes of motorbikes. We were very fortunate to be able to chat with Abel Pez, harlista and one of the promoters of the get-together in the Varadero resort area. Abel tells us that the event will especially be a party for Harley owners. Its prime aim is to provide an opportunity for them to energize each other so that they continue looking after these bikes in the condition they are, making sure they are working well and looking fantastic. It seems that some of these bikes arrived in Cuba before their owners’ parents were born. There are models from the 1930s, 40s, 50s and 60s; the oldest bike dates back to 1932 or 1933. Many of them are still being used as basic transportation for their owners, taking them to work and looking after daily business.

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That’s why they are valuable not only for their age and rarity, but because they continue being useful. Hopes are that the event will be an enjoyable weekend, bringing together those legendary bikes with both Varadero tourists and residents. The bikes will be moving in from the afternoon of Friday, February 5th and that same evening there will be informal get-togethers at local night spots. During the day of Saturday the 6th the bikes can be seen at Varadero Park taking part in various shows that will surely be the highlight of the weekend such as the slowest bike, putting the straw in the bottle, “hot dogging,” an obstacle course and the fastest start. Prizes will also be awarded for the oldest bike, the best restoration, the bike that drove the farthest to get to Varadero and the peoples’ choice bike. Also, on Saturday the 6th, a book written by Max Cucchi, Conner Gory and Jens Fuge will be presented, compiling historical Harley photos with articles that will be sure to impress and satisfy the curiosity of many Harley fans. In the afternoon, concerts will feature artists such as David Blanco, Isis Flores, To mezclao, Ozamo and Adrián Belazain. In the morning of Sunday the 7th of February, the event will move to Cardenas Park in the nearby city of the same name to visit its interesting historical

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museum. The Park will be the site for the official event photograph. Lunch will be served at a farm in Santa Marta, the property of a harlista friend who has made it available for the get-together. It is obvious that the entire structure of the weekend rests on a firm cultural foundation. Abel explains to us that harlistas consider those bikes to be part of Cuba’s heritage: they are part of the Island’s culture. He says that basically those bikes became old in the 1980s, and when it became difficult to find spare parts, bike owners and mechanics resorted to adaptations that they manufactured themselves. For example, they transformed alternators, added dynamos from buses, adapted coils, bearings, tires and headlights, replacing the original worn-out parts with Soviet-made spare parts coming from Ural motorbikes. Cuban lathe operators fabricated many needed parts on their lathes just to fill the demands of these adaptations.

Abel Pez is not the only biker who admits that driving a Harley is akin to feeling a sense of freedom. You seem to be flying through the air that hits your face. He also tells us that travelling in groups on the highways creates great camaraderie, with the sound of the motors making the trip more pleasurable. Riding any motorbike is an exciting experience and nowadays, since it has become more possible to import the Harley parts specially manufactured for the old bikes, an added element of safety has been added to the deep-rooted Cuban passion for biking.

It’s the “inventive” Cuban spirit of these mechanics that makes these machines Cuban as well as the fact that these vehicles have played an important role in many people’s lives, belonging to successive generations. Some were used by the Cuban police and they’ve been treated like family members with their stories being closely interwoven into the fabric of Cuban families. For sure they are part of Cuba’s national heritage.

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February 5-7, 2016, Varadero, Cuba

The 5th International Harley Davidson Rally Fifth National & International Harley Davidson Concentration http://www.harlistascubanosrally.com Cuban Harlistas (www.harlistascubanosrally.com), in coordination with the provincial authorities of Matanzas, is organizing the Fifth International Harley Davidson Concentration in Cuba, which will take place from February 5-7, 2016 in Varadero, Matanzas. You are invited to participate in the encounter which will include the following programmed activities.

Program 2016 Friday,

Departure for Varadero. Accommodation. Music show in the evening.

Saturday,

Accreditation at Varadero Park. Concentration at Varadero Park. Exhibition and traditional competitions. Cuban Harlistas is pleased to accept donations of toys destined to ill and orphaned children. Toys/games will be collected in Varadero during the meet and distributed to worthy organizations/institutions after the event. Concert with guest singers and rock bands in the evening.

Sunday,

Official photo shoot (for accredited participants only). Farewell lunch (by invitation only)

Details & Contacts As with past events, this concentration is not organized by any specific motorcycle club, and all Harley Davidson owners in Cuba and abroad who wish to participate are invited, regardless of the club they belong to or the colors they wear. Motorcyclists riding other brands of bikes are also welcome to participate. The Registration Fee for visitors is $30 CUC per person and includes 1 event, t-shirt and farewell lunch. To coordinate accreditation, accommodation and transportation please contact: Abel Pez

Weekdays: (53) 7-866-2559 Cell phone: (53) 5264-4546 Email: [email protected]

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Max Cucchi Email: [email protected]

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Lázaro Brotón Cellular phone: (53) 5-311-9192 Email: [email protected]

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The Rise, Fall and Survival of Harley Davidsons by Boris Leonardo Caro photos by Ana Lorena

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The first Harley Davidsons made their way to Cuba around 1917 during WW I. It was a sort of premonition of the arduous road they were to travel along in the twentieth century in order to survive competition, diplomatic crises and economic hardships. The Harris brothers, original proprietors of the store still in existence beside the Bacardi Building in Habana Vieja, brought those already wellknown American motorcycles to the Island. Even though they organized races and exhibitions to stimulate business, the power of those English motors forced them to abandon the enterprise. A clever Santiago de Cuba businessman by the name of José Luis Bretos came along and saved Harley Davidson bikes from disappearing from Cuban roadways. Bretos soon obtained a contract with the Havana police force and later it was extended by President Gerardo Machado to the rest of the national police force in the 1920s. Thereby Harley Davidson became the official supplier for motorcycles to the forces of law and order.

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But it was not just the policemen who were using them in the first half of the twentieth century. The first woman to drive a motorbike in Cuba, actress and singer María de los Ángeles Santana, could be seen up and down the Malecon on a Harley Davidson in the 1940s much to the amazement of scandalized Havana high society. But everything changed in 1959, or rather one year later, when the United States imposed a brutal economic and commercial blockade on Cuba, one that is still in place. No more “Made in the USA” products were to enter Cuba and that included spare parts for Harley Davidson bikes. The icy winds of the Cold War opened Cuba’s door to products coming from Eastern Europe. We now had tractors from Byelorussia, Bulgarian stewed fruit, Hungarian buses and motorcycles from Czechoslovakia, Russia and East Germany.

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American motors and Soviet spare parts

Conservation Myths and Realities

Anything that might work to fix a Harley or one of its British rivals the Nortons, Triumphs or BSAs, would be put to work: car wheels from Czech Skoda cars or a chassis from a Soviet Ural motorbike. Without the least bit of prejudice or conflict of ideologies, spare parts manufactured in the Socialist bloc and those coming from American and British industries worked hand in hand on the highways of Cuba. It was as if the Cold War had ended, thanks to the ingenious workmanship of a handful of Cuban mechanics.

One popular legend among Cuban bikers states that around one hundred Harley Davidsons were buried somewhere after the fall of the dictator Fulgencia Batista in 1959. Just like the Crusaders searched for the Holy Grail, bikers dream about that fabulous burial ground.

There were some heroes in this saga. One of the most beloved was José Lorenzo Milésima, known as Pepe. This man who had studied to be a mechanic in the US became famous for the rigor of his repair work and for his willingness to pass on to the younger generation his wealth of expertise learned during long years of innovations. When he died in June of 1990, his “harlista” buddies declared Fathers’ Day as the Day of the Absent Motorbike Rider. Every year a caravan of bikers pays the Father of Cuban Motorcycling tribute at the Colon Cemetery.

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But beyond any myths, Cuba has become a living museum for classic motorcycles. Elsewhere these would be treasured heirlooms for collectors. Along Havana streets you can still see dozens of these creations that were salvaged by a handful of loyal bikers. And people no longer look at their leather jackets with mistrust. It’s not the American Way of Life or the Russian Way of Life that breathes life into those motorbike romantics. It is the Cuban Way of Life, a distinctive style that uses imagination and resistance as fuel for a way of life.

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Harley-Davidson Mechanics

Photo by Y. del Monte

by Ricardo Alberto Pérez

Being a Harley-Davidson mechanic in Cuba is something like being a mechanic for almendrones, those old American cars from the mid-twentieth century. When you talk to some of these men you realize how it is possible that those wheeled treasures are still in motion and fascinating both Cubans and foreigners visiting our Island. Mayito Machado is a Harley owner and mechanic. The two bikes he has owned were both bought when they were not functioning. The first one was a 1947 vintage, which he swears to us was delivered to him in pieces in a couple of baskets. With much patience and inventiveness, he managed to bring it back to life. During the process, he had to cook up several innovations, such as replacing part of the crankshaft with similar parts coming from a Soviet truck. He tells us that after putting it together, he has never had to fix it again.

In order to repair this motorcycle, he says that he bought a barrel of spare parts wholesale from which he selected what he finally needed. He particularly had to weave some magic with the transmission and he adapted rubber from a Soviet artillery cannon for the job. Again, this combination of elements coming from different societies and cultures becomes a curiosity and a strange paradox. Machado says that in Cuba most of the old car and motorcycle owners end up becoming mechanics. He sees himself as a natural mechanic because ever since he was very young he was always fixing things with his father. Later on he graduated as a mechanical engineer.

His second bike was rather special since it was a 1942 Harley that had been part of the US Army war surplus after WW II. At the end of the war, the Americans sold off a lot of these vehicles and some got to Cuba, trucks and motorbikes included. This particular Harley was distinguished by having the letter “W” (for war) in its serial number and it is more valuable than most because it was specially reinforced for the work it was destined to do. Photo courtsey Max Cucchi

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Cuban mechanics tend to talk about the enormous number of tools and machinery that is available in the country, specifically lathes. They all agree that the lathe and the clever men who operate them have been their best allies because they have had the amazing ability to fabricate the spare parts that are not available in Cuba and to create veritable miracles when they replace certain accessories. They also value bodywork experts, painters and upholsterers. Everything comes together in a typically Cuban way and the wheels just keep on rolling. There are some veritable legends among these mechanics. For example there is Noel Maqueira who is an artist able to take any bike apart and then reconstruct it according to his own vision. He has the help of his entire family in this fascinating process. You can find such mechanics all over Havana and its environs. Some of these locations are very picturesque and have become essential ingredients in the Harley passion. Mechanics such as Sergio Morales never give up in their quest. This man spends his days repairing motorbikes in the Luyanó neighborhood, just as José Sobrino does in Arroyo Naranjo and Luis Enrique in El Vedado.

Sergio Morales has been involved with Harleys since the 1980s and he dedicates his time to repairing and restoring motorbikes. He tells us that he has learned a lot of the necessary secrets from the legendary Havana mechanic Pepe Milésima. Sergio has owned three Harleys. He has travelled several times to the US invited by Harley-Davidson and has visited their factory. His name, as well as that of his wife, Miriam Hernández, appears on a plaque in Milwaukee’s Harley-Davidson Museum. He is one of those people who believe that those bikes which we are so proud of in Cuba can no longer be considered to be American. Because of all the energy and transformations bestowed on them here, they belong more to us that to anyone else. Even though nowadays it is difficult—if not outright impossible—to obtain original spare parts as times gone by, our mechanics never give up and continue to amaze us with their innate capacity for invention, which seems to be a quintessential feature among Cubans, in all fields.

Photo courtsey Max Cucchi

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Christopher P. Baker is a professional travel journalist, lecturer, and tour leader. His more than 25 books include Mi Moto Fidel: Motorcycling Through Castro’s Cuba (National Geographic), winner of two national book awards. He contributes to CNN and has written and photographed for publications as diverse as Elle, Motorcyclist, National Geographic Traveler, and Newsweek.

On the road from Bayamo to Santiago de Cuba text and photos Christopher Baker

I liked the panache of touring Cuba by motorcycle. I saw myself as a latter-day Che Guevara, whose own motorcycle journey would have been the adventure of a lifetime had he not met Fidel. The bike would turn my own travels into an adventure. And nowhere in Cuba serves up adventure as much as the Sierra Maestra, the rugged mountain range in the south of the island from where Che and Fidel launched their Revolution in earnest in 1956. The Circuito Sur highway, which wraps around the Sierra Maestra, delivers adventure in spades—a perfect tropical cocktail of adrenalin charged curves, rugged terrain, and superlative vistas. The trip begins in earnest west of Bayamo, capital of Cuba’s south-eastern Granma province, where the traffic thins down to a few tractors and wooden carts pulled by sturdy oxen, dropping long stalks of sugarcane as they go. Snowy white egrets

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lift off from the Day-Glo cane fields studded by royal palms rising like silver-sheathed Corinthian columns. Then I pass a Chevrolet Styleline Deluxe, gleaming as brightly in the sunlight as the day in 1952 when it rolled off the factory floor in Detroit. Time itself seems to have stopped on the carretera midway between Bayamo and Veguitas. At the small town of Yara I detour south and climb into the Sierra Maestra via a switchback so twisty it makes me feel dizzy. The bike and I cant as one, arcing gracefully through the curves of serried ranges and forbidding valleys. Ideal guerrilla territory. Every other turn offers a heart-stopping drop-off, with spectacular vistas over plains resembling a Spanish mantilla. I pause to breathe in the mountain air and listen to the agreeable silence broken only by birdsong and the buzz of myriad insects.

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On the coastal plains south of the port city of Manzanillo, the sugarcane fields have been burned for the zafra (the sugar harvest), and field hands—macheteros—in tattered linens and straw sombreros are slashing at the charred stalks with blunt-nosed machetes. Hot, dirty work. They look as if they themselves have been put to the torch. Black smoke rises in twirling tornadoes, eddying up from fires that taint the idyll with the sickly sweet stench of molasses. South of Manzanillo I feel deliriously light-hearted as I cruise down the empty road with the mountains on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other. I’m riding with a heightened sense of awareness, so attuned to the BMW and my surroundings—the smells, the sun’s rays, the warm wind caressing my skin—that I’m not even thinking. Beyond Sevilla the road wends down through a narrow ravine, spilling me onto the coastal plains that run along the southern base of the Sierra Maestra. On the long straight, I move into top gear and open the throttle wide. I cook down the highway, the bike purring sexily as it eats up the hardtop in a sensuous intertwining of glorious harmonics and warm, perfumed air. The landscape changes abruptly. I pass goats munching in stony pastures studded with cactus. There’s not a store or cafe for miles and it’s a relief to break for a late lunch at the Marea del Portillo beach resort, where hotels stud a vast bay beneath cloud-draped mountains.

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My map shows the route along the coast as a dirt track as far as Chivírico, just east of Santiago de Cuba, a distance of about 80 miles. The “en duro” course begins a few miles east of Marea del Portillo. I run at the water’s edge lined with wild, windswept beaches. Then the trail claws its way over great headlands and hangs suspended in air before cascading steeply to the next valley. In places the angles seem impossible. But the BMW seems not to notice. Amazingly, I pass a fivedecades old Chrysler New Yorker chugging uphill in the other direction, impervious to the mountain terrain. Beyond the Río Macío, marking the boundary with Santiago de Cuba province, I pick up the hardtop again. Copper-colored cliffs loom massively out of the teal-blue sea. Cuba’s highest peaks lie within fingertip distance. The light is fading as I round a final bend and see the wan lights of Santiago de Cuba in the distance. A rubicund radiance mantles the mountains. Slanting sunlight splashes Santiago’s rooftops with fiery vermilion. Then the sublime conflagration is extinguished, leaving only a memory of the enchantment of the Cuban landscape at sunset. As I pull up to my hotel and haul my motorcycle onto the side stand, I grin broadly and sigh with satisfaction, knowing that I could never have got so close to so much beauty inside a car.

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Chasing Che: Motorcycling through Cuba

The first Yankee motorcycle groups since the Revolution tour around Cuba text and photos Christopher Baker Twenty years have passed since I first rode my R100GS to the Bay of Pigs during a threemonth-long, 7,000-mile exploration of Cuba as a professional journalist. Eighteen years spent dreaming of leading the first U.S. group motorcycle tours of the island. Finally… I’m so stoked, I can’t suppress my glee any longer “Weeeeeheeee!” As the group files in one by one, I direct the participants to park their Beemers and Harleys outside the Bay of Pigs Museum and line up beneath the wings of a British-made Sea Fury that saw action defending Cuba against the CIAsponsored invasion, in April 1961, by a CubanAmerican exile army. Then I ride my F800GS into the midst of the group and have a museum guide shoot a photo for posterity beside a giant billboard that reads: “PLAYA GIRÓN [Cuba’s term for the Bay of Pigs]. THE FIRST ROUT OF U.S. IMPERIALISM IN LATIN AMERICA.” “Congratulations!” I exclaim. “You’ve just made history. You’re the first yanqui motorcycle group to explore Cuba end-to-end since the U.S. embargo was enacted in 1960.”

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Only 90 miles separate Key West from Havana, yet in many ways the Florida Straits is the widest moat in the world. Not least, Uncle Sam bars U.S. citizens from solo travel to Cuba (exemptions exist for Cuban-Americans, journalists, and humanitarian and religious travel, etc.). Fortunately, in January 2011, President Obama inched the door open by creating a new license category permitting any U.S. citizen to legally travel to Cuba for educational cultural exchanges run by companies and institutions that could now apply for such a mandate. In 1995, I contacted Skip Mascorro, founder of Texas-based tour company MotoDiscovery, for advice on planning my journey. We stayed in touch. Last year he asked me to draft a license application and sample itinerary. Bingo! In January 2013, 14 eager motorcyclists flew south from Miami to participate in a 14-day all-Cuba program under a special license issued in April 2012 by the U.S. Treasury Department’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC), which oversees all regulations related to travel and trade with Cuba. Since the P2P ("people-to-people") license prohibits recreation and “tourism,” our motorcycles were used for the purpose of transportation between our requisite P2P exchanges. Those slice-of-life engagements with Cubans—from tobacco farmers

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to harlistas, owners of pre-revolutionary Harleys— guaranteed a richly rewarding immersion with Cuba's profound history and culture as we rode a 2,000-mile counter-clockwise circuit from Havana to Baracoa, at the eastern tip of the island. Time-worn Baracoa was founded in 1511 as Cuba’s first city. Cusped within a bay spreadeagled beneath a huge flat-topped formation surrounded by rainforest, it resembled a mini Macondo, the surreal setting for Gabriel García Márquez's novel One Hundred Years of Solitude. (Socialism and sensuality. Secret police and sexy showgirls. Cuba is nothing if not surreal.) Arriving at Baracoa was its own adventure as we roared up La Farola, the steep mountain highway (completed since the Revolution) with nervewracking bends that switchback up and over the Sierra Cristal via the valley of the Río Yumurí. With its bridges cantilevered magically from the mountainside, La Farola struck me as a marvelous piece of engineering. Beyond the summit the world fell away as the road spiraled down to Baracoa, hovering on the distant horizon beneath a brooding twilit fusion of valley and molten sky. Cuba is the flattest isle of the Greater Antilles. Our route was mostly level; the roads wellpaved. West from Baracoa, however, the shoreline highway whittled down to an unpaved scrambler trail—a real roller-coaster—pitted with potholes brimming with a bouillabaisse of blood-red mud accumulated after recent rains. This 40-km-long enduro section added a welcome and adventurous challenge sandwiched between two full weeks of non-technical riding. I rode the trail standing up as I hauled along in third gear. I’m normally a 1200GSA rider. By comparison, the F800 seemed so incredibly light and responsive—a bike tailored for touring Cuba.

it el bloqueo, the blockade) that still hangs like an axe over Cuba. Thereafter, Soviet bloc Urals, MZs and Jawas flooded Cuba during four decades. Keeping them going is a testament to Cuban resourcefulness, ingenuity, and indefatigable optimism in the face of shortages and other difficulties we can barely imagine. “El cubano inventa,” said Luís Enrique Gonzáles Saenz, President of Cuba’s harlista club, explaining how Havana’s proudly fanatical owners of antique Harleys go to extreme (even absurd) lengths to keep their hogs running. We began our tour at Luis’ workshop adjoining his home in Havana’s once tony Vedado neighborhood. “What we can’t fix or cannibalize from other motos or cars we make ourselves,” explained Luis, who co-guided with me throughout the tour. “We tailor pistons and virtually any other part you can think of right here. Hecho en Cuba, chico!” The visitor’s first reaction is of being caught in a 1950s time warp. Cars from the Eisenhower era are everywhere: Chrome-laden DeSotos. Corpulent Buicks. Stylish Plymouth Furies. And other relics of Mafia-era ostentation putter along beside modern Japanese taxis, sober Russian-made Ladas, and dour 650cc Urals with sidecars. It’s hard to stay focused on the road as we head out of town along the Malecón boulevard sinuously fronting Havana’s shoreline.

Since shipping a motorcycle across the Florida Straits is virtually impossible, our bikes—a combination of BMW F650s and F800s, plus four Harley-Davidsons—were supplied by a Danish company, Motorcycle Tours Cuba, that has been offering two-wheel tours for Europeans since 2009 (U.S. citizens are barred from participating). The company also supplied a support van to carry our gear. Wherever we stopped, Cuban males coalesced to give us high fives and marvel at the exotic Beemers. “Phew!... hombre!” they exclaimed. “What marque is this? How big is the engine?” And, inevitably, “How fast does it go?” You’d have thought we’d landed in flying saucers. Prior to the Revolution, Harleys were standard issue for Cuba’s police and the military. Then Cuba spun off into Soviet orbit. No more Harleys were imported, thanks to the U.S. embargo (Cubans call

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I ride sweep at the rear. Luis Enrique rides lead. The Doobie Brothers’ ‘Taking it to the Streets’ surges from the speakers of his blood-red Street Glide as we hit the Autopista Nacional, Cuba’s only freeway, and crank up to 120 kph, heading east. The concrete eight-laner runs through open countryside flat as a carpenter’s level. We have it virtually to ourselves save for the occasional yanqui jalopy, Soviet tractors, and creaky wooden carts pulled by oxen, dropping long stalks of cane as they go. I’m thrilled to be back in the saddle, retracing my journey through a country I’ve grown to know well and love dearly. Enraptured, I cook down the highway, the F800 purring sexily as it eats up the hardtop in a sensuous intertwining of glorious harmonics and warm, perfumed air. After 142 km we turn south for the Bay of Pigs and arrive at the climactic spot where socialism and capitalism squared off in 1961. Cuban families and Canadian package tourists slathered with suntan oil splash about in the shallows. It’s difficult with the sun beating down on a beach as silvery as mountain snow to imagine that blood and bullets had mingled with the sand and the surf here five decades before. Further east we stop to get ‘Sugar 101’ from macheteros—sugarcane harvesters—in coarse work clothes and straw hats, slashing at the tall cane with short blunt-nosed machetes. Hard, dirty work. We pass thatched homesteads—bohios—

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and ox-drawn ploughs tilling the palm-studded land. Then Trinidad comes into view. Founded by conquistador Diego Velázques in 1514, this cobbled colonial town—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—has sidestepped the currents of time. We slip uphill through maze-like cobbled streets that echo to the clip-clop of hooves. ‘Horse-whisperer’ Julio Muñoz even brings his horse inside his 18thcentury colonial home to demonstrate ‘New Age’ equine techniques with which he hopes to change Cuba’s macho cowboy culture. Our route is a magical mystery tour of such fascinating people-to-people encounters: A visit to a rural clinic to learn about Cuba’s community health system… a santería religious ceremony… a family-run marble-sculpting cooperative. In Guantánamo, we even pick up a tránsito (motorcycle cop) escort through the Cuban military zone and over La Farola to Baracoa. The taciturn Policia Nacional Revolucionario trio on their undersized Yamaha Viragos eventually thaw as Luis and I coax them to spill the beans about tránsito training. “The enemy shall not pass our frontier!” screams a billboard outside Guantánamo. (Others reading “Patriotism or Death!” and “Long live socialism!” leave us no doubt that we’re in a Communist nation. Che Guevara’s visage is everywhere, too, alongside that of Fidel.) Yet everywhere we go, we’re feted. It seems a strange juxtaposition.

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Rousing anti-imperialist murals offset by three generations of Cubans—most well-nourished, well-shod and clothed, and beaming benignly— sending reassuring waves to us Yanks. It seems so innately Cuban: The considerate expression of a people uncommonly gracious and generous to a fault.

Arriving for a final night in Havana, Luis and I surprise the group by arranging for a ride to dinner at Le Chansonnier—a superb paladar (private restaurant)—in a fleet of '50s classic convertibles. Then on to the Tropicana, the world-famous cabaret now in its eighth decade of Vegas-style stiletto-heeled paganism.

And sensual too.

Sure, as far as adventure motorcycling goes this was tame. But just 90 miles from the malls and McDonalds of Florida, we’d journeyed to the soul of a haunting realm full of eccentricity, eroticism, and enigma. Socialism and sensuality. Twenty years after I first attended, the open-air extravaganza had lost none of its erotic.

Music is the pulsing undercurrent of Cuban life. Troubadors serenade us at every meal stop, causing ‘Junior’ (our support van driver) and Enedys (our local guide assigned to us by Cuba's Havanatur tour agency) to get up and dance, a little closer than groin to groin. I’m amazed the birth rate isn’t higher. We can learn from the Cuban instinct for gaiety; the fun-loving way they turn adversity on its ear.

Christopher P. Baker is a professional travel writer, photographer, and tour leader. His six books about Cuba include MI MOTO FIDEL: MOTORCYCLING THROUGH CASTRO'S CUBA (National Geographic Adventure Press), winner of two national book awards. http://christopherpbaker.com/mi-moto-fidel

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XVIII Festival del Habano Feb 29 – March 5, 2016 Photos courtsey of Habanos S.A.

With Sir Terence Conran at the Festival del Habano by Stephen Gibbs

Maybe someone was having a quiet joke. Perhaps it was a coincidence. But for one reason or another, Havana’s Karl Marx theatre was the setting for the inaugural night of celebrations in honor of that great capitalist prop, the hand-rolled cigar. The visitors, more likely to be socialites than socialists, come every year to rub shoulders with like-minded aficionados. And smoke, almost continuously. With many countries around the world now shunning smokers, Cuba, which has not enforced its own anti-smoking legislation, has become something of a haven. “We have been driven to special corners of the world,” says Hong Kong based cigar distributor David Tang. “Places where people still understand that smoking is not a sin.” Visitors to the festival spend much of the week touring the factories where the objects of their desires are rolled. For British designer and restaurateur Sir Terence Conran, coming to Cuba for the first time having smoked Cuban cigars almost every day for the last 43 of his 75 years, is like a pilgrimage. In the vast rolling room of H. Upmann, the air thick with the aroma of tobacco leaf, he recalls his first cigar.

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“We opened the Habitat store in May 1964, and someone suggested that the best way to celebrate was with a Montecristo cigar.” I ask him if he has ever considered giving up. “No,” is his brusque reply. “Luckily I have a very sensible doctor who smokes cigars himself.” The festival is of course not just about smoking cigars. It has a serious business side. Behind closed doors, in the factories’ tasting rooms, retailers are thinking of ways to defend their livelihoods against anti-smoking legislation. They know that they will probably end up selling fewer cigars. One strategy is to go more upmarket. The week ends with an extravagant $500 a head final dinner, which this year was held in the cavernous ExpoCuba, near Havana’s Parque Lenin. Glancing around the several guests, it seemed quite clear that there are plenty of cigar smokers with plenty of money around the world. The dinner ends with an auction of hand-crafted humidors. The bids (which go towards Cuban health care) soar into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. This does not look like a business or a habit that is dying out.

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2016 Habanos Cigar Festival Program Palacio de las Convenciones (unless otherwise stated) Calle 146, e/ 11 y 13, Playa Thursday, March 3, 2016

Monday, February 29, 2016 11am- 5pm

2pm

7:30pm

Preliminary Habanosommelier International Competition. Opening of the Trade Fair and Habanos Gallery Welcoming cocktail in tribute to Hoyo de Monterrey Reserva Cosecha 2012 (Antiguo Almacén de la Madera y el Tabaco)

Tuesday, March 1, 2016 7am-5pm

Visit to tobacco plantations in Vuelta Abajo, Pinar del Río.

Wednesday, March 2, 2016 9:30am-9:45am

Opening Seminar

of

the

Visit to Habanos factories

2:30- 3:30pm

Master lecture

3:30- 4:30pm

Master lecture. Contest to get the longest ash

4:30 -5:30pm

Habanos Moments (various venues)

Friday, March 4, 2016 9:30-10:30am

The Final of the Habanosommelier International Competition

11am-12pm

Master lecture

12-1pm

Closing of the Seminar and Trade Fair. Awards ceremony

1pm

Farewell lunch Restaurant

7:30pm

Gala Evening dedicated to Cohiba in its 50th Anniversary. Traditional Humidor Auction (Pabexpo)

International

9:45am10:30am

Master lecture

11am-12.15pm

Master Class on cigar rolling technique Totalmente a Mano (Totally Handmade). How to make a figurado

11am-12;15pm

Master Class on cigar rolling technique Totalmente a Mano (Totally Handmade). Making of a Double Figurado

2:15- 3:45pm

Master lecture

4-5pm

Alliance of Habanos

7:30pm

The Roller Evening (El Laguito Protocol Hall)

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9am-12pm

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El

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Cuban cigar bands: another expression of fantasy by Ricardo Alberto Pérez, photos courtsey Habanos.SA My father was the classic cigar smoker: he would only light one up when he had enough time to savor it uninterrupted. Ever since I was very young I would follow him around hoping he would give me the decorative bands on each one of his cigars. And so I turned into an unwitting impromptu collector even sharing bands I had collected with my friends. Over the years, many of my bands managed to disappear without my noticing, but I have continued to appreciate the delicate originality of most of those designs which identify and personalize the cigars, adding another element to their seductive power. After smelling the cigars and checking out their textures, buyers will inevitably linger over the image that will finally convince them to make their purchase.

produced in Mexico and the Philippines. And when this industry was mechanized by the introduction of offset printing cigar band quality declined. Cuban cigar producers rely on the bands in their war against constant imitations and forgeries. For that reason, the best Cuban cigar bands have the brand name incorporated somewhere in the center or on the wings. They also include the word HABANA (with a “b”) and sometimes CUBA.

More than once I have heard connoisseurs describe the quality of the bands as being historically on a par with the superb quality of Cuban tobacco. The phenomenon originated around 1850, when the Cuban lithographic industry was being energetically developed and some of the first lithographs were used to decorate cigar boxes. One can hear the expression of “the Golden Age of cigar band production” being used to describe the years up to the 1920s. This was when their quality and beauty competed only with those that were

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1955 Ramón Allones Aristocrat

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1970’s Romeo y Julieta Clemenceau

Some Cuban cigar brands have a remarkable number of different bands. Among these are Partagas, Romeo y Julieta and José Gener. There are collectors who have proudly amassed over one thousand different Romeo y Julieta bands. Within so much diversity, imaginations have obviously been left to soar and people all over the world have acquired a much greater appreciation of Cuban creativity and talent in the cigar production business.

Diplomatic Trinidad

1998 H. Upmann Magnum 46

The Cuban industry has a production line that devotes itself to more popular and less expensive cigars; these bands tend to be simpler, one color and with very practical lettering and designs but they nevertheless possess great charm. Among these, the names El cacique, Los Cazadores, El coloso and El crédito should be praised for their lovely bands. Another interesting fact is that the Cuban cigar industry is one of the few in the world to use purely domestically produced bands. The best of the thematic bands usually stress the colors gold and red, but H. Hupmann for example goes lighter on the gold and impresses collectors with their complicated almost Baroque multicolored designs. There is a distinct preference for regal, aristocratic symbols such as crowns, coats of arms, lions and coins, but Cuban bands generally emphasize sobriety and functionality, rather than trying to overwhelm with embellishments that lack content. The most well-known Cuban cigar brand name is Cohíba, and its history is closely associated with the bands that have identified them since 1966. Of their four lines Clásica, 1492, Maduro 5 and Cohíba Behike, the latter is considered to be the most exclusive. But all the lines have been rationally transforming their bands and improving their quality. Recently, we have news that the newest productions have been using holographic printing techniques and so there is one more reason to continue being proud of those tiny masterpieces that are such an important element for one of Cuba’s greatest exports.

Dunhill Cabinetta

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Che:

a face and its language

by Ricardo Alberto Pérez photos by Y. del Monte

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For over fifty years the image of Che has never failed to surprise us, never mind that it is so wellknown and could be criticized as being a bit overused. It doesn’t matter where you see it, whether it is a tattoo on somebody’s skin, decorating an article of clothing, painted on some city wall or a poster in the room of a youngster, teenager or dreamers anywhere in the world. The most amazing thing about this never-ending story nourished by the image of Che is its capacity for renewal depending on the circumstances that change along with our lives. The image of Che undergoes all sorts of transformations, yet it stands up to the erosion of time. When we look at photographs depicting his childhood and teenage years, we have before us a mystery many years prior to his political importance, symbolizing a countless number of utopias. These snapshots from family albums reveal his youthful empathy with camera lenses. He was a thoroughly photogenic child.

in his gaze. Korda has stated that what impressed him as Che stood on the improvised podium was his black beret with its commander’s star. The leather jacket he was wearing was zipped up to his chin, the wind was blowing his long hair and his eyes seemed to be fixed on some infinite horizon. That photograph exploded onto the world and became a universal icon after October 18, 1967, a few days after it was learned that he had died in Bolivia and after Fidel presided over a ceremony in his honor in Revolution Square. Today, one of the tall buildings that ring the square, now the Ministry of the Interior has a linear version of that photo, enlarged to monumental proportions, covering one of the building’s entire side.

Anyone familiar with Che’s story regards Alberto Korda’s photo of March 5th, 1960 as a milestone. It was taken at the mass funeral for the victims of the sabotaged steamship La Coubre in Havana. The intense feelings Che must have been feeling on that occasion obviously played a significant role in his expression, influencing that charismatic depth

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The images of Che that we see these days are the product of a diversity of artistic interpretations. The most amazing thing is that this Che seems to inhabit the streets of Havana in a spontaneous manner. Some depictions are crayon or charcoal drawings on the walls in the older part of town. There are other amateur renditions appearing at the front doors of apartment buildings or in some empty spaces at sports facilities or around farmers’ markets. And then there are also the images that have been professionally turned out for and by revolutionary propaganda. The most novel form in which the image appears today is being created by different sorts of graphic artists. In recent years tattooing has grown in popularity in Cuba and Korda’s image of the guerrillero heroico is very popular with people decorating their bodies. Many versions exist and some of them are remarkably original, following a free-wheeling sense of creativity. Young people like wearing T-shirts decorated with endless numbers of different photographs of Che and I was surprised a few days ago to see someone with the image actually woven into the fabric. It really appears that this image is far from disappearing anytime soon. At times, the image itself is not even necessary and we can see only the three letters of his name transmitting the mythology that developed from his person. His biographers loved to celebrate his undeniable charisma as he smoked a good Cuban cigar, framed by whimsically trailing ribbons of smoke.

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February 14 Photo by Alex Mene

Valentine’s Day in Cuba Given the sexually-charged, erotic atmosphere of Cuba on an average day, perhaps Valentine’s Day is unnecessary, an excessive indulgence in a country that needs little excuse for romantic courtship at any time. Nonetheless, February 14 has assumed increasing prominence over the years as the day when lovers need to be packed away because girlfriends and wives take center stage. It was an ancient custom to worship the God of Love—Eros for the Greeks, Cupid for the Romans— to dedicate offerings and gifts, and to seek their help in finding the perfect match. Although commemorating St. Valentine’s Day has its source in Anglo-Saxon tradition, the legend goes that around the 3rd century, the priest Valentine of Rome performed marriage ceremonies despite the orders of Emperor Claudius that young men remain single in order to expand his army, believing that married men did not make for good soldiers. Valentine defied Claudius and continued to perform marriages for young lovers in secret. When his actions were discovered, Claudius ordered that he be taken prisoner and thrown in jail. Further embellishment of the legend has it that, while in prison, he fell in love with his jailer’s daughter and sent the first “valentine” card himself, appropriately signing it “From your Valentine,” an expression that is still in use today.

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In Great Britain, Valentine’s Day began to be celebrated around the 17th century. By the middle of the 18th century, friends and lovers in all social classes were exchanging small tokens of affection, notes or cards known as valentines. This practice began to expand to other countries, with their own particular features. Valentine’s Day was adopted in Latin American countries in the early 20th century, and greeting cards became just as popular as in the United States. According to Cuban patriot and poet José Martí, who lived many years in New York, these cards were made “of fine Bristol lined with lace or trimmings…there are angels, lovers, wild flower bouquets: lilies, daisies or sunflowers that are in fashion now because they are the flowers of the esthetes.” In time, Valentine’s Day, or Lover’s Day, as it is known in Cuba, has become Day of Love and Friendship. This day is also chosen by many Cubans to give their sweethearts their engagement rings. Some even choose it as their wedding day. And, on that special night, the Malecón fills with lovers remembering the past and dreaming of the future.

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Visual Arts photos by Alex Mene Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano

Contaminación

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano Through February 25

Altavoz contra la pared, retrospective of installations and sculptures by Esterio Segura.

Through February 14

El eco del último disparo, focuses on the changes occurred in the artistic production between the 19th and 20th centuries Curator Delia María López points out classical composition, the representation of historic events and basic elements of academic art.

Through June 1

Solo exhibition by Carlos Alberto García, who describes his work as abstract, highly influenced by Expressionism.

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam Opens February 16

Base/Superestructura, which won the artist Lázaro Saavedra the 2014 Visual Arts National Award.

Palacio del Segundo Cabo Through March 31

Centro Cultural Fresa y Chocolate February 12 to March 13

Isla Negra-Isla Verde, a group exhibition paying tribute to Pablo Neruda.

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Bocetos de Zanelli para el Capitolio Nacional. The exhibition includes the 10 original sketches sculpted in plaster by the Italian master Angelo Zanelli in 1929, made especially for the sculptures and main portico of the Capitolio Building. It includes the great statue of The Republic; the two titans flanking the steps, Work and Virtue; and the seven friezes of the central portico, allegorical to the march of the Cuban people for freedom and democracy.

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photos by Ana Lorena Factoria Habana

Factoría Habana Through January 15

Signos. Arte e industria y viceversa, which has been conceived as an installation that brings together objects, texts, artefacts, photos, ceramics, graphic works, video and printed materials, aims at emphasizing creative experiences in which a balanced fusion between art, design and industry, and elements of the urban and architectural environment takes place through the works of Carlos José Alfonzo, Juan Carlos Alom, Félix Beltrán, Alberto J. Carol, Gonzalo Córdoba, María Victoria Caignet, EMPROVA, Cirenaica Moreira, Miguel Díaz, Felipe Dulzaides, Leandro Feal, Mario Gallardo, Mario García Joya (Mayito), Carmelo González, Roberto Gottardi, Arturo Infante y Renier Quert, Nicolás Guillén Landrián, Roberto Matta, Ernesto Oroza, Amelia Peláez, Manuel Piña, René Portocarrero, Idelfonso Ramos, Leyden Rodríguez, Mariano Rodríguez, Humberto Solás y Héctor Veitía, Lesbia Vent Dumois, as well as the projects Ediciones en Colores, TELARTE, Arte en la Fábrica, Arte en la Carretera and Arte en el Muro.

Arte Continua Through February 7

Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura You + Me = Us is a group exhibit by Loris Cecchini, Giovanni Ozzola, Ornaghi & Prestirani, Alejandro Campins, Elizabet Cerviño, Susana Pilar Delahante, Carlos Garaicoa, Reynier Leyva Novo and José Yaque.

Centro de Desarrollo de las Artes Visuales Through February 11

Voight Kampff, by Yonlay Cabrera, winner of the 2014 Estudio 21 Scholarship..

Through February 15

nano is a small-format exhibition with works by Chago Armada, Ezequiel Suárez, Wilfredo Prieto, Orestes Hernández and Adonis Ferro.

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Throughout February

La Vasija 2015 is an exhibition of vessels, tiles, panels and murals presented in competition. They praise the origins of ceramics, whose origin lay in vessels, but these contemporary artists give them a whole new twist.

Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño Through February 12

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Quinésica is an exhibition of paintings by Maisel López, known for his portraits on walls and façades. Círculo de arte is an exhibition by graduates from the University of the Arts.

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Fábrica de Arte Cubano Opens February 4

Galería Galiano

Elementos is an installation by Equis Alfonso, who uses new technologies to produce sensations inspired by Nature´s four elements. Prometo no lastimarte esta vez, by Yuri Obregón Batard, shows the artist’s inner world.

Opens February 5

Through February 8

De la forma invariable, markedly abstract landscapes by Roger Toledo.

Galería Habana Through February 6

Hecho en Cuba—architecture and furniture design.

Exhibition by René Francisco. Deeply introspective and metaphorical exhibition of drawings, paintings, sculptures and installations that delve into the creation, marketing and socialization of art.

Galería Galiano Through February 22

Proyecto Clandestina 99%, with designs by Idania del Río.

Throughout February

Galería Artis 718 Through March 4

Galería Latinoamericana. Casa de las Américas

Save mucho is a collection of works by Carlos Quintana.

Los intrépidos, with works by acclaimed Cuban and Latin American comic strip artists, including Wilson, Zumbado, Ajubel, Teijeiro, León Zapata, Fernando Krahn, Fresquet, Conti Oski, Beltrán, Tomy, Le Parc, Nuez, Blanquito and Manuel.

Galería Carmen Montilla Through 28 February

El mundo de Quino, with drawings by Argentinian comic strip artist Joaquín Lavado (Quino), creator of the celebrated Mafalda.

(re)visitaciones, by Diana Balboa, seems to mark the beginning of a new period in the life of this artist, who uses maps in paintings, printings and installations to question today’s Cuba.

Galería Orígenes Galería Collage Habana Through February 26

Exhibition by Jorge Luis Santos, who has approached landscape painting as a way to express himself.

Galería El Reino de este Mundo. Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Throughout February

Mi mano derecha no sabe lo que escribe mi mano izquierda, with paintings, installations and objects by minimalist Yornel Martínez.

Throughout February

Plus, group show by 23 prizewinning Cuban artists, who will exhibit paintings, collages, sculptures…using various techniques, mediums and aesthetics which characterize contemporary Cuban art.

Galería Villa Manuela Through February 25

Zootheby’s, exhibition by Reynerio Tamayo.

Restaurante Fabio Taller Experimental de Gráfica de La Habana Through February 10

Zoografía, exhibition.

group

Through April 14

printmaking

Entre signos pictóricos is an exhibition by Carlos René Aguilera and Alejandro Barreras.

Vitrina de Valonia Through February 20

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Exhibition by Étienne Schréder. Original drawings by the Belgian comic strip artist, advisor and cartoonist of the successful Blake et Mortimer.

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photography

Fototeca de Cuba Through February 21

Retrato o Selfie, by Lisette Solórzano, goes from the conventional portrait to today’s, more dynamic selfie in an

Casa del ALBA Cultural Through February 21

Casa Oswaldo Guayasamín

Día del Teatro Cubano, with photographs by Abel Carmenate, Sonia Almaguer, Carolina Salgado, Carlos Manuel Mera Rojas, Dilena Cervantes, Marubenys Valdivia, Gian Carlo Marzall, Adrián  García Núñez, Alejandro Espinoza Ferrer, Adrián  Arteaga Escalante, Enrique González Santaballa, Sebastián  Wolligandt, Bernardo Acosta Gutiérrez, Lourdes Guerra, Fidel Mariano Vargas  Moré, Jorge Pozo, Jessica San Román, Joshua, William Pérez and Ihosvany Plasencia.

Opens February 19

Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura Opens February 25

Through February 15

Hold Back, with photographs by Paola Martínez and Iván Perera, focuses on digital photography and photography-installation.

Galería L Throughout February

Criminogénesis is an exhibition by young artist IHOS Plasencia.

Galería Servando Cabrera Moreno Throughout February

Moments of the Human Condition by the well-known US photographer Peter Turnley: his photos have appeared 43 times on the cover of Newsweek and he has published seven books. The show is organized in four sections: Heart of America, A Love Letter to Paris, In Times of War and Peace, and Cuba ~ A Grace of Spirit.

Museo Casa Natal de José Martí Throughout February

Mar is an exhibition by Tomás Inda, with digital photographs printed on silver gelatin.

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Exhibit by Dominican photographer Wilfredo García.

Edificio de Arte Cubano. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Estudio Galería Los Oficios Throughout February

f/508, by Brazilian Bete Coutinho, in which the concrete and the abstract, reality and imagination, reason and fantasy coexist.

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De Martí a Fidel, de Dos Ríos al Moncada, Hasta la Victoria Siempre. Julio Larramendi exhibits photographs of monuments and sites from all over Cuba related to José Martí.

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dance Cabaret, reparaciones imprevistas Compañía Persona Fábrica de Arte Cubano February 5, 9:30pm

Improvisation show with Ensamble Interactivo de La Habana, Andrés Pérez, Gabriela Burdsal, Luvyen Mederos and Omar Pérez.

La magia de la danza Ballet Nacional de Cuba Gran Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso February 6, 12 & 13, 8:30pm; February 7 & 14, 5pm

A collection of great moments in 19th-century choreography: Giselle, Beauty and the Beast, The Sleeping Beauty, The Nutcracker, Coppelia, Don Quixote and Swan Lake in adaptations that show the respect and creativity the Cuban School of Ballet has for tradition. They will also perform Sinfonía de Gottschalk, which shows the essence of Cuban ballet.

Innermost Los Hijos del Director Teatro Mella February 5-7, 8:30pm

First public performance by this company, directed by George Céspedes.

Ciudad de Guantanamo

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MUSIC Contemporary Fusion

Los Ángeles Photo Alex Mene

The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has expanded recently as new bars and clubs have opened party promoters have organized events in parks and public spaces. Good live music venues include Bertolt Brecht (Wed: Interactivo, Sunday: Déjá-vu) and El Sauce (check out the Sunday afternoon Máquina de la Melancolía) as well as the newly opened Fábrica de Arte Cubano which has concerts most nights Thursday through Sunday as well as impromptu smaller performances inside.

In Havana’s burgeoning entertainment district along First Avenue from the Karl Marx theatre to the aquarium you are spoilt for choice with the always popular Don Cangreco featuring good live music (Kelvis Ochoas and David Torrens alternate Fridays), Las Piedras (insanely busy from 3am) and El Palio and Melem bar—both featuring different singers and acts in smaller more intimate venues.

José María Vitier en concierto January 30, 8:30pm Teatro Martí

Concert by pianist and composer José María Vitier, whose style often combines the classical and Cuban folk music styles. Some of his most remarkable works are his compositions for the Cuban film Fresa y Chocolate, and his Cuban mass.

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Balneario Universitario El Coral Fridays & Saturdays 1pm-1am

Submarino Amarillo

Electronic music with rapping, DJing, Vjing, Dj-producers, breakdancing and graffiti writing, among other urban art expressions.

La Máquina de la Melancolía, with Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto García

Tercera y 8 Mondays 11 pm

Saturdays 2pm

Vieja Escuela

Every other Friday

Soul Train, a show of soul music

Sat & Sun

Rock cover bands

Diablo Tun Tun Baby Lores

Saturdays 11 pm

Barbaram Pepito’s Bar / 5 pm Tuesdays

Los Francos

Sundays

Discoteca Onda Retro

Tuesdays

Roberto Fonseca

Wednesdays

Interactivo

Saturdays

David Blanco

Fridays 9 pm

Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional / 5 pm Wednesdays

Qva Libre

February 4

Diana Fuentes

February 5

Simon Kirke and Yaroldy Abreu

February 5

Daphne Willis

February 6

Rhett Miller

February 7

Daphne Willis and Rhett Miller

Casa de la Amistad Sundays 5 pm

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Los Ángeles

Fábrica de Arte Cubano / 11 pm

Tenor Bernardo Lichilín and DJ Eddy Sánchez

Raúl Paz

Electronic music with Sarao,

Le Select Sundays 5 pm

Gato Tuerto

Tuesdays

Gens

Salón Rosado de La Tropical

Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht / 11 pm

Saturdays 10 pm

Miel con Limón

Havana Hard Rock

Café Concert El Sauce / 5 pm Sundays

Mondays 9pm

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Rock ’n’ Roll with Vieja Escuela.

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Photo by Alex Mene

Photo Alex Mene

Salsa / Timba Casa de la Música de Miramar

Casa de la Música Habana

Mondays 11 pm

Sur Caribe

Wednesdays 5 pm

José Luis Cortés y NG La Banda

Fridays 11 pm

NG La Banda

Sundays 5 pm

Yaser & Nueve Milímetros

Sundays 5 pm

Bamboleo

Salón Rojo del Hotel Capri Sundays 11 pm

Fridays 10 pm

Azúcar Negra

Juan Guillermo

Tercera y 8

Café Cantante. Teatro Nacional Mondays 11 pm

Jardines del 1830

Wednesdays 11 pm

Alain Daniel

Manana Club

Salón Rosado de la Tropical Sundays 4 ppm

Manana Club

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MUSIC JAZZ

Jazz Café

Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar. +53 (07) 209-2719

Mellow, sophisticated and freezing due to extreme air conditioning, the Jazz Café is not only an excellent place to hear some of Cuba’s top jazz musicians, but the open-plan design also provides for a good bar atmosphere if you want to chat. Less intimate than La Zorra y el Cuervo – located opposite Melia Cohiba Hotel.

Café Jazz Miramar Shows: 11 pm - 2am

This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba’s best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright—take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us.

Asociación Cubana de Derechos de Autor Musical February 18 6 pm

Jardines del Teatro Mella

Alexis Bosch (pianist) and Proyecto Jazz Cubano.

UNEAC February 11 5 pm

Wednesday 8 pm

Zule Guerra (singer) & Blues D’ La Habana

Fábrica de Arte Cubano Peña La Esquina del Jazz hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés.

February 4 11:55 pm

Frank David Santiuste (trumpet) and Real Project

February 6 9:30 pm

Gastón Joya and his trio

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano February 20 7 pm

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Yasek Manzano (trumpet) and his group

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MUSIC Bolero, folklore, son & trova Asociación Yoruba de Cuba

Diablo Tun Tun

Fridays 8:30 pm

Obbiní Batá(folkloric group

Saturdays 4 pm

Los Ibellis (folkloric group)

Waldo Mendoza

Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht February 27 4 pm

5 pm / Trova

Sundays

5 pm / Orly Núñez 11 pm / Soneros de la Juventud

El Jelengue de Areíto / 5 pm

Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional Saturdays 5pm

Thursdays

Rafael Espín and guests

Tuesdays

Conjunto Chappottín

Wednesdays

Trova

Thursdays

Conjunto Arsenio Rodríguez

Fridays

Rumberos de Cuba

Sundays

Rumba

Hotel Telégrafo Casa de África February November64 4 pm

Eduardo Obbiní Batá Sosa and Síntesis

February 13 3 pm

Cheketé, with the folkloric group Obiní Batá

8 pm

Casona de Línea Sundays 8 pm

Trova

8 pm / Annie Garcés

February 19

4 pm / Gerardo Alfonso

Saturdays 9 pm

Tres Tazas with trovador Silvio Alejandro

Saturdays 4 pm

Participo with Carlos Pérez

Argelia Fragoso

La Hora Infiel, with music, visual arts, literature and more.

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trovador

Juan

Leo Vera

Centro Iberoamericano de la Décima February 6

3pm / Duo Ad Libitum

February 28

5pm / El Jardín de la Gorda with trovadors from every generation.

Gato Tuerto Fridays 5 pm

Bolero Night

Fridays 4 pm

Saturdays 9 pm

Sonyku

Museo de Artes Decorativas February 3 5 pm

Hurón Azul, UNEAC

Fresa y Chocolate

Delirio Habanero Saturdays 10 pm

Ivette Cepeda.

Pabellón Cuba

Casa del Alba February 11

Fridays 9:30 pm

Diablo Tun Tun Thursdays

5pm / Trova with Ray Fernández

Sundays

5pm / Orly Núñez

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classical MUSIC

Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís February 27 6 pm

Concert by Camerata Romeu

Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Saturdays 4 pm

Concerts by chamber soloists and ensembles.

Casa del ALBA Cultural February 7

Concert with Ensamble de Vientos Nueva Camerata

February 26

En Confluencia, conducted by guitarists Eduardo and Galy Martín.

Sala Covarrubias. Teatro Nacional Sundays 11 am

Concerts by the Nationl Symphony Orchestra.

Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura February 13 5 pm

Sinatra Belcanto, with songs by Frank Sinatra in the voices of young singers of Teatro Lirico Nacional, accompanied by pianist Eralys Fernández.

February 20 5 pm

Concert by the Solistas de La Habana chamber orchestra, conducted by Iván Valuente.

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Casa Victor Hugo / 5 pm January 8

Concert by the choir Vocal Leo

January 22

Duo Cáliz, made up by Luis Manuel Molina (guitar) and Vicente Monterry (clarinet).

Oratorio San Felipe Neri February 4-18

4pm / Workshop by acclaimed American instrumentalist Tiffany Tieu.

February 6

7pm / Concert by Denis Kolobov (violin), Anolan González (viola) and Gabriel Chorens (piano)

February 8-11

4pm / Master lectures by the Russian violinist and conductor Denis Kolobov.

February 11

4pm / Le charme française, with violinist Denis Kolobov and guest musicians Eralys Fernández

February 20

7pm / Concert by clarinetist Arístides Porto and guests.

February 27

4pm / Concert by pianist Fidel Leal and soprano Bárbara Llanes.

and Lianne Vega (piano).

(piano) and the string quartet made up by Desiré Justo (violin), Camila Martel (violin) Anolan González (viola) and Roberto de la Masa (cello).

Fábrica de Arte Cubano February 4 9:30 pm

Concert by Trío Lecuona

Gran Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso. Sala Lecuona / 5 pm February 6

Mozart 260, with works by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

February 13

Concert by the choirs Entrevoces, Vocal Leo and Camerata Vocale Sine Nomine.

Parroquia del Vedado February 27 7 pm

Concert by flutist Niurka González with her students, as well as cellist Alejandro Martínez and other musicians.

Sala Gonzalo Roig. Palacio del Teatro Lírico Nacional February 28 5 pm

Cuerda Dominical, with guitarist Luis Manuel Molina.

Sala Ignacio Cervantes / 6 pm February 7

Concert by pianist Elsa Hermida and guests.

February 14

Concert by the orchestra Música Eterna, conducted by Guido López-Gavilán.

February 21

Concert by clarinetist Alejandro Calzadilla and guests.

February 28

Mirta Batista’s Proyecto Camerarpa.

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Theatre

Teatro Trianón Photo Alex Mene

Decamerón Teatro El Público / Production: Carlos Díaz Fridays & Saturdays 8:30pm; Sundays 5pm Teatro Trianón

Several stories from Giovanni Boccaccio’s The Decameron are put on stage with more than a hint at Cuba today. Those who expect nudity galore from Carlos Díaz are in for a surprise.

Fool for Love

El deseo

Argos Teatro / Production: Yailen Copola and Yeandro Tamayo, Fri & Sat 8:30pm; Sun 5pm, Argos Teatro

Compañía Hubert de Blanck / Production: Orietta Medina, Fridays & Saturdays 8:30pm; Sundays 5pm, Sala Hubert de Blanck

Play written by the successful American playwright/ actor Sam Shepard, in which two desperate lovers involve the viewer in the asphyxiating setting of a cruel and destructive love story.

Burundanga Teatro de las Estaciones / Production: Rubén Darío Salazar, February 7, 9:30pm, Fábrica de Arte Cubano

Burundanga by playwright Luis Enrique Valdés Duarte, is a puppet show for adults about a hypothetical working relationship between the late Cuban singer Celia Cruz and the late Spanish singer Lola Flores.

A play by Mexican playwright Víctor Hugo Rascón Banda about the conflicts of the relationship between a middle-aged woman and a young man, in which cultural differences overpower sex and passion.

A pululu February 19 & 20, 8:30pm; February 21, 5pm, Sala Avellaneda. Teatro Nacional

Comedy show.

Más añejo sabe mejor Onondivepa / Production: Alfredo Oliva, Tuesday-Thursday, 8:30pm, Sala Adolfo Llauradó

Comedy show of monologues and sketches dealing with everyday Cuban life.

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For kids

Festival Internacional de Circo Pista Joven February 23-26 Escuela Nacional de Circo

Circus show by young circus artists.

Érase una vez... un pato Dialogando con Paulo Freire Teatro de la Orden Tercera, February 20, 21, 27 & 28, 10:30pm, Teatro La Proa (Cuba) and Asociación Civil Creando y Titereando (Mexico)

Puppet parable against selfishness and shallowness. It is a praise to self-acceptance, an acknowledgement to life’s true values.

Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura, February 11, 18 and 25, 5pm, Teatro Viajero

Performance for children and adults in honor of Paulo Freire, an important Brazilian educator.

Títere de maravillas

City-Nature Excursion

Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura February 6, 11am Teatro Viajero

Reservations: 7 881 9979 or offices in Parque Forestal (Ciclo Vía y Ave. 26, behind the Joaquín Albarrán Hospital) Saturdays & Sundays

Show that combines games, oral narration, literature and classical music.

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Guided tour departing from John Lennon Park (calle 17 e/ 6 y 8, El Vedado) to the Almendares River, Almendares Park and Bosque de La Habana, Parque Forestal (where visitors can see a scale model of Parque Metropolitano de La Habana) and Parque Zoológico Nacional, that includes a tour of the Africvan Prairie and the Lions’ den.

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EVENTS IN HAVANA III Encuentro Identidades de la Guitarra February 1-7 Havana’s cultural venues

It aims to show the confluence of styles in guitar composition and performance, and will include concerts, recitals and workshops by musicians from Argentina, Colombia, Cuba, the United States, Great Britain, Italy and Puerto Rico at UNEAC, Casa del Alba Cultural, Casa de las Américas, Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Fábrica de Arte Cubano and Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco.

Monday 1st Sala Che Guevara, Casa de las Américas

6 pm / Opening Ceremony

Performances by Carlos E. Varona, Elvira Skourtis, Federico Núñez (Argentina), Cuarteto de guitarras de La Habana (conducted by Galy Martín) and Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana (conducted by Daiana García). Works by Leo Brouwer, Eduardo Martín, Fernando Maglia, Félix Dardo, Carlos Gardel, Gerardo Matos, Aníbal Troilo, Abel Fleury and Carlos Guastavino.

Tuesday 2 Sala Villena, UNEAC

6 pm / Performances by Alan García, Elinés Franco, Mabel González and Sonantas Habaneras (conducted by Jesús Ortega).

Works by John Dowland, Leo Brouwer, Astor Piazzolla, Ñico Rojas, Armando Neves, Aníbal A. Sardiñas “Garoto”, Antonio Vivaldi, Ignacio Cervantes and Aldemaro Romero.

Wednesday 3 Sala Villena, UNEAC

10 Am / Lecture: “La guitarra en el folclore argentino” by Federico Núñez (Argentina)

Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís

6 pm / Performances by Eduardo Martín, Con-Trastes, José Manuel Lezcano (Cuba-US), Antipe

Casa del ALBA Cultural de La Habana

8:30pm / Performances by Giovanni Giusto (Italy) and guest musicians.

da Stella (Switzerland), Alejandro Valdés and Solistas de La Habana orchestra (conducted by Iván Valiente). Works by Celedonio Romero, Fernando Sor, José M. Lezcano, Ignacio Figueredo, Eduardo Martín and Alejandro Valdés. Works by Giovanni Giusto.

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Thursday 4 Sala Villena, UNEAC

10 Am / Workshop on the Electric Guitar by Jorge L. Chicoy, Emilio Martiní, Héctor Quintana,

José Bustillo and Antonio Forcione (Italy).

2pm / Performances by ISA students, Ariel Puig, Luis Ángel Chouza

Works by Leo Brouwer, Antonio Lauro and Agustín “Mangoré” Barrios. 4pm / Performances by Magela Oquendo, Franz Castillo (Colombia), Roberto Cano and Bayado

quartet. Works by Leo Brouwer, Franz Castillo, León Cardona, José A. Morales, Eduardo Martín, E. Sainz de la Maza, Heitor Villa-Lobos, Agustín “Mangoré” Barrios, Georges Bizet and José White.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Arte Cubano

7pm / Performances by Ariadna Cuéllar, Con-cuerdas and Reynier Mariño and his group.

Works by Francis Kleynjans, José Broca, Fernando Sor, Ariadna Cuellar, Paco de Lucía and Reynier Mariño.

Friday 5 Sala Villena, UNEAC

10 Am / Lecture on Manuel Ponce by Ana María Rosado (Puerto Rico-US).

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Arte Cubano

7pm / Concert Carlos Emilio Morales in Memoriam. Performances by Jorge L. Chicoy, Héctor Quintana, Emilio Martiní and José Bustillo. Recreations and improvisations by the performers themselves.

Fábrica de Arte Cubano

10:30pm / Performances by American guitarists.

Documentary Isaac, commentaries by Clarita Nicola.

Saturday 6 Sala Villena, UNEAC

10 Am / Concert by students at the Guillermo Tomás, Manuel Saumell and Paulita Concepción

music schools.

4pm / Performances by Zuleida Suárez, Susana Frade, Luís Manuel Molina, Efraín Amador, Amanecer and Vocal Clave de Sol guitar orchestra (conducted by Nuria García and Yamilé García). Works by Manuel M. Ponce, Tomás Marco, Leo Brouwer, Ozzy Osbourne, Luís M. Molina, Efraín Amador, Ariadna Amador, Miguel Failde, Lucía Huergo, Alfredo Brito and Ignacio Cervantes, as well as popular Latin American songs. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Arte Cubano Fábrica de Arte Cubano

7pm / Concert Carlos Emilio Morales in Memoriam.

Performances by Antonio Forcione (Italy-UK) and guest musicians. Recreations and improvisations by the performers themselves. 10:30pm / Performances by American guitarists.

Sunday 7 Teatro Lírico Nacional de Cuba

2 pm / Concert by students at the Alejandro García Caturla, Eduardo Abela and Amadeo Roldán

Teatro Lírico Nacional de Cuba

4pm / Performances by Ana María Rosado (Puerto Rico-US), Roxana Castro, Elinés Franco,

music shools.

Antipe da Stella and young gutarists (conducted by Esteban Campuzano). Works by Manuel M. Ponce, Leo Brouwer, B. Schulé, Eduardo Martín, Martín Pedreira and Dailén Martínez. 6pm / Closing Ceremony

Performances by Con-trastes, Alejandro Valdés and Alter Ego Works by José Manuel Lezcano, Mesut Ozgen, Alejandro Valdés, Eduardo Martín and Diego Santiago.

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EVENTS IN HAVANA Feria Internacional del Libro

February 11-21 in Havana; it will travel to other provinces starting February 22 Havana and other provinces

The 25th Havana International Book Fair 2016 will be held from February 11 to 21, under the slogan “To read is to grow”. This year, the Republic of Uruguay will be the Guest Country of Honor and the fair will be dedicated to authors Lina de Feria and Rogelio Martinez Furé. Aside from the traditional venues at the Fortress of San Carlos de La Cabaña and El Castillo de los Tres Reyes Del Morro, this new edition will also have several sub-venues in different parts of the capital, including Pabellón Cuba, Casa Del Alba Cultural and Centro Dulce Maria Loynaz, where literary, artistic and academic events have been scheduled. The 2016 edition will be an ideal occasion for professionals related to the world of publishing and specialists from the book industry to meet and exchange views. Every year, the professional, academic and literary programs include symposiums, tributes, panel discussions, lectures, readings, book launchings and awards aimed at fostering fruitful exchanges between writers, thinkers, cultural promoters, artists and the audience. The artistic program of last year’s fair featured more than 18 musical performances, ten art exhibitions, and theatrical productions by more than a dozen countries. Each edition of the Havana International Book Fair provides new reasons as to why it has become the most significant event in the Cuban publishing movement since its inception in 1982, and also the most unifying cultural event in the country. Besides offering a space for purchasing books and exchanging views with the authors, the Fair has become a place for exhibiting the dynamism and different facets of the cultural life of Cuba.

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EVENTS IN HAVANA Festival de Música Antigua Esteban Salas February 12-21 Havana’s cultural venues

Organized by the Office of the City Historian and the Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble, throughout the years, this festival has been the ideal vehicle to disseminate the rich Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque musical heritage, performed by Cuban and international musicians.

February 12 Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís

7 pm / En la noche más buena. Works by Gaspar Fernández and Juan Gutiérrez de Padilla (two

chapel masters at the Puebla de los Ángeles Cathedral, 17th century). Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble (Cuba).

February 13 Iglesia San Francisco de Paula

6 pm / La música a partir de los tiempos de Cervantes. Works by Antonio de Cabezón, Hernando

Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís

7 pm / Las Mil y Dos Noches. Música Antigua de nuestros días. Works by Edgardo Martín, Guido

Franco, Sebastián Aguilera de Heredia and María Antonia Palacios. Organist Cristina García Banegas (Uruguay).

López Gavilán, Antonio Vivaldi and Johann Sebastian Bach. Música Eterna chamber orchestra and flutist Alberto Rosas (Cuba).

February 14 Iglesia San Francisco de Paula

6 pm / Trasmutaciones. Works from the 20th and 21st centuries, based on music from the Middle Ages. Cellist Alejandro Martínez, Ensemble and Vocal Luna (Cuba). 7 pm / Le Rossignol en Amour or Kling Gleich der Hellsten Nachtigall. Works by Giovanni Pandolfi

Mealli, Hans Martin Linde, François Couperin, William Byrd and Georg Philipp Telemann. Susanne Ehrhardt, Baroque clarinet, chalumeau and recorder (Germany); and Cristina García Banegas, harpsichord (Uruguay).

February 15 Calle Obispo

3 pm / Pasacalle hasta el Parque Central. Music from the Middle Ages to the Baroque ending with the concert Il Gardellino, by Antonio Vivaldi. Guest musicians and flutist Alberto Rosas (Cuba).

Iglesia San Francisco de Paula

7 pm / La flauta dulce, magia y seducción en la música italiana. Works by Antonio Vivaldi,

Bartolomeo Montalbano and Alessandro Stradella. François Dolmetsch (England) and David Gómez García (Colombia), recorder. Students from the teaching program of the Ars Longa music ensemble and Baroque Orchestra of the National School of Music (Cuba).

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February 16 Iglesia San Francisco de Paula

6 pm / Canciones de peregrinos y cruzadas en el camino de Santiago en los siglos XII y XIII.

Ensemble Lauda (Cuba).

7 pm / Semana Santa, vigencia y tradición. Música en la antigua villa de La Santísima Trinidad

(siglo XIX). Ars Nova Early Music Ensemble (Cuba).

February 17 Iglesia San Francisco de Paula

6 pm / Los italianos en el Nuevo Mundo. Works by Domenico Zipoli, Ignacio Jerusalem, Santiago

Billoni and Luis Mison, in the 18th-century Americas. Kathleen McIntosh, harsichord, and guest musicians from the United States; and the Exaudi chamber choir conducted by María Felicia Pérez (Cuba).

February 18 Iglesia San Francisco de Paula

6 pm / Música de Italia y el sur de Alemania. Claudio Merulo, Domenico Scarlatti, Andrea

Gabrieli, Christian Erbach, Johann Pachelbel and Johann Jakob Frohberger. Ulrique Theresia Wegele, organ (Universität für Musik Graz, Joseph Haydn Konservatorium Eisenstadt, Austria).

7 pm / El amanecer barroco. Música instrumental de la vanguardia de principios del siglo XVII.

Claudia Gerauer, recorder (Germany) and Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble (Cuba).

Fábrica de Arte Cubano

10 pm / Descarga a lo Barroco. Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble (Cuba) and guest musicians.

February 19 Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís

7 pm / Una fiesta con Vivaldi. Conciertos para oboe, flauta traversa y fagot. Alfredo Bernardini, Baroque oboe (Italy) Baroque Orchestra of the National School of Music and soloists of Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble (Cuba).

Universidad de las Artes

11 pm / Encuentro teórico en la Facultad de Música. Papers regarding recent musicology researches. Musicologists Giorgio Monari and Omar Morales Abril.

February 20 Iglesia San Francisco de Paula

6 pm / Estampas de la producción organística cubana en el siglo XIX. Works by Salvador Herrera Fons, Cratilio Guerra, José Mauri, José Lidon, Pedro Carceller and Francisco Villa. Martin Rost, organ (Germany) and Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble (Cuba).

Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís

7 pm / Sopranos y caballeros: Orlando, Quijote y la Ópera barroca. Works by Agostino Steffani, Giovanni Bononcini, Georg Friedrich Händel and Francesco Bartolomeo Conti. Valentina Marghinotti, soprano (Italy) and Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble (Cuba).

February 21 Catedral de la Habana

7 pm / Closing Ceremony: Vísperas y Misa de San José en la Puebla de los Ángeles. Juan Gutiérrez de Padilla, Antonio de Salazar, Manuel de Sumaya, Juan Pérez Roldán, Fabián Pérez Jimeno and Francisco de Atienza. Ensemble Meridionalis (US) and Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble (Cuba).

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Around Cuba III Festival del Monólogo Latinoamericano & Premio Terry February 9-16 Teatro Terry, Cienfuegos

Sponsored by the Tomas Terry Theatre in Cienfuegos, this Monologue Festival was launched in 2003 with the aim of validating a genre, which by nature demands intense commitment of playwrights as well as actors. Despite being one of the newer events in the domestic cultural scene, this festival has already achieved a standing in the Cuban stage, and at present the most renowned Cuban playwrights, directors, actors and actresses compete in the beautiful Terry Theatre. The event will feature some 50 performances by 25 companies, most of them at the Terry Theater, but also in other venues in the province of Cienfuegos. The event also includes workshops, lectures and discussions with figures such as Adolfo Nicolás Somavilla and Patricio Ruiz (Argentina), Julián Garnik (Puerto Rico), María Dodera (Uruguay), Re­ nata Mézenov Sa (Cuba-Italy) and Paz de Alarcón (Spain).

I Encuentro sobre Cultura Audiovisual y Tecnologías Digitales en Cuba February 11-12 Callejón de los Milagros, Camagüey

This meeting aims to draw attention to the possibilities of building partnerships among public entities to promote a more rational use of available resources in a way that it stimulates the creative use of technology for the community. The event will include theoretical discussions, the first eBook Fair, which will offer the possibility to download various files, and a competition of cinema-themed coffee recipes, which after being judged will become part of the menu of the coffee shop on El Callejón de los Milagros.

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Havana’s Best Places to Eat

EL LITORAL

El Atelier

5

Bella Ciao

5

Café Bohemia

5

Café Laurent

4+

EXPERIMENTAL FUSION

HOMELY ITALIAN

CAFÉ

SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN

menu.

Great service, good prices. A real home from home.

Bohemian feel. Great sandwiches, salads & juices

with breezy terrace.

Calle 5 e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025

Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7-206-1406

Calle San Ignacio #364, Habana Vieja

Calle M #257, e/ 19 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2090

Casa Miglis

El Chanchullero

La California

4

La Casa

5

5

5

CUBAN-CREOLE/INTERNATIONAL

CONTEMPORARY FUSION

SWEDISH-CUBAN FUSION

SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN

Great fresh pastas.

VIP service. The Robaina family place. Thurs Sushi night.

Oasis of good food & taste in Centro Habana

Fabulous value hole in the wall tapas. Trendy.

Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863 7510

Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-7000

Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486

Teniente Rey #457 bajos, Plaza del Cristo, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-872-8227

El Cocinero

Corte Príncipe

Il Divino

5

5+

4

D. Eutimia

5+

INTERNATIONAL

ITALIAN

INTERNATIONAL

CUBAN/CREOLE

with a buzzing atmosphere

Sergio’s place. Simple décor, spectacular food.

Set in huge gardens outside town. Great for the kids.

Absolutely charming. Excellent Cuban/creole food.

Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, Vedado. (+53) 7-832-2355

Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar (+53) 5-255-9091

Calle Raquel, #50 e/ Esperanza y Lindero, Arroyo Naranjo (+53) 7-643-7734

Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja (+53) 7 861 1332

Iván Chef

El Litoral

La Fontana

4

Habana Mia 7

4

5+

5+

INTERNATIONAL

INTERNATIONAL GOURMET

SPANISH

INTERNATIONAL

Consistently good food,

Endless summer nights. Excellent food and service.

food.

Watch the world go by at the Malecón’s best restaurant.

Calle 46 #305 esq. a 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-8337

Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra. Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287

Aguacate #9 esq. a Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-863-9697

Nautilus

5

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Nazdarovie

5+

SOVIET

Well designed Soviet décor, excellent food & good service. Calle 84 #1116 e/ 11 y 13. Playa (+53) 5-237-3894

Malecon #25, 3rd floor e Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947

Otra Manera

5

INTERNATIONAL

service. Calle #35 e/ 20 y 41, Playa. (+53) 7-203-8315

Santy

5+

Río Mar

5

Nero Di Seppia

Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2201

5

Opera

5

ITALIAN

INTERNATIONAL

best pizza chef, Walter. Same food, great locale.

environment. Quality food. By

Calle 6 #122 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 5-478-7871

Calle 5ta #204 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 5-263-1632 (+53) 8-31-2255

San Cristóbal

5

304 O’Reilly

INTERNATIONAL

CUBAN/CREOLE

INTERNATIONAL

Contemporary décor. Great sea-view. Good food.

Deservedly popular.Consistently great food. Kitsch décor.

Chic, stylish. Superb gin & tonic. Best in Old Havana.

Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla, Miramar (+53) 7-209-4838

San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-9109

O’Reilly #304 e/ Habana y Aguiar,La Habana Vieja (+53) 5-264-4725

Starbien

VIP Havana

5+

5

El Templete

SUSHI/ORIENTAL

SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN

SPANISH

SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN

servicing world-class sushi.

Fabulous food and great service in the heart of Vedado.

Jordi’s place. Fabulous modern open-plan space.

Overlooking harbor. Good quality but expensive.

Calle 29 #205 e/ B y C, Vedado (+53) 7-830-0711

Calle 9na #454 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 7-832-0178

Ave. del Puerto #12 esq. a Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-8807

Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039

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5

4

La Guarida

5+

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

www.laguarida.com

Contemporary fusion

Expensive

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Authentic, charming and intimate atmosphere in Cuba’s best known restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy. Don’t Miss Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining next to you. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana. (+53) 7-866-9047

El Litoral

5+

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

International

Expensive

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Quality décor, good service and great food. Best new place recently opened. Don’t Miss Drinking a cocktail at sunset watching the world go by on the Malecón Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado. (+53) 7-830-2201

Nazdarovie

5+

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

Soviet

Moderate

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Getting a flavor of Cuban-Soviet history along with babuska’s traditional dishes in a classy locale. Don’t miss Vodka sundowners on the gorgeous terrace overlooking the malecon. Malecon #25 3rd floor e/ Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947

Santy

5+

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

Sushi

Moderate

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Fabulous sushi, wonderful ambience overlooking fishing boats heading out to sea. World class. Don’t miss Getting a reservation here. Calle 240A #3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039

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PAGE 71

Café Bohemia

5+

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

Traditional

Moderate

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for perfect for taking a break from long walks and seeking shelter from the stifling Cuban. Don’t miss location in the cool inner courtyard of the colonial building. Ground floor of the Palacio de la Casa del Conde de Lombillo, Calle San Ignacio #364 (+53) 5- 403-1 568, (+53) 7-836-6567 www.havanabohemia.com

Iván Chef Justo

5+

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

Spanish

Expensive

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Spectacular innovative food. Light and airy place where it always seems to feel like Springtime. Don’t Miss The lightly spiced grilled mahimahi served with organic tomato relish. Try the suckling pig and stay for the cuatro leches. Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacón, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-863-9697 / (+53) 5-343-8540

Casa Miglis

5

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

Swedish-Cuban fusion

Expensive

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for The beautifully designed interior, warm ambience and Miglis’s personality create the feeling of an oasis in Central Havana. Don’t Miss Chatting with Mr Miglis. The Skaargan prawns, beef Chilli and lingonberries. Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486

www.casamiglis.com

Atelier

5

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

Experimental fusion

Expensive

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Interesting menu, beautiful building with great décor and service. Don’t miss Dinner on the breezy terrace during summer. Calle 5ta e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025

[email protected]

lahabana

Cuba's Digital Destination

PAGE 72

La Casa

5

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

International/sushi

Expensive

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Warm hospitality and openness from the four generations of the Robaina family. Quality food. Don’t miss Thursday night sushi night. The Piña Colada. Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado. (+53) 7-881-7000

[email protected]

Otramanera

5

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

International

Moderate

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Beautiful modern décor and good food. Don’t miss Pork rack of ribs in honey. Sweet & sour sauce and grilled pineapple Calle 35 #1810 e/ 20 y 41, Playa (+53) 7-203-8315 [email protected] [email protected]

La California

4

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

Cuban-Creole/International

Moderate

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Beautiful C19 colonial building. Popular place with quality food and great service. Love the fresh pastas. Dont’t Miss The interesting history of the neighbourhood, where Chano Pozo (legendary Afro-Cuban jazz percussionist) hung out. Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-7510

Habana Mía 7

4

TOP PICK

Style of food Cost

International gourmet

Moderate

Type of place

Private (Paladar)

Food Ambience Service Value Best for Stylish and fresh décor give a Mediterranean feel for long endless summer nights. Excellent food and service. Don’t miss Watching the world go by on the lovely terrace overlooking the ocean. Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287

www.habanamia7.com

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Sloppy Joe’s

Havana’s best Bars & Clubs Traditional Bars El Floridita

4+

Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Touristy but always full of life. Great cocktails. Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja

(+53) 7-867-1299

5

1950s Traditionals

GUEST PERFORMERS INCLUDE BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB MEMBERS Sociedad Rosalía de Castro, Egido 504 e/ Monte y Dragones, Old Havana (+53) 5-270-5271

Sloppy Joe’s Bar

4+

Cervecería Antiguo Almacén Madera y el Tabaco

Recently (beautifully) renovated. Full of history. Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’. Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-7157

5+ de

la

Microbrewery located overlooking the restored docks Simply brilliant. Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja

Contemporary Bars El Cocinero

5+

Fabulous rooftop setting, great service, cool vibe. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (+53) 7-832-2355

Espacios

5-

Laid back contemporary bar with a real buzz in the back beer-garden.

TaBARish

5

A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service.

Calle 10 #510, e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar

Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) (+53) 5-329-6325 www.facebook.com/fabrica. deartecubano

(+53) 7-202-9188

Contemporary bars/clubs Don Cangrejo

4+

Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. Ave. 1ra e/ 16 & 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837

5

Packed night after night with a young dressed-up clientele wanting to party. Don’t go looking for Buena Vista Social Club!

4

Bohemian attracting a hip Cuban crowd. Excellent DJ’s keep the place jumping.

El Gato Tuerto

4+

Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky.

Calle 17 e/ E y F, Vedado, La Habana (+53) 7-832-0433

Up & Down

5

From the team that brought you Sangri-La. Attracting a young party crowd, very popular. Take a coat.

Calle O e/ 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224

El Tocororo

Sangri-La

5

For the cool kids. Basement bar/club which gets packed at weekends. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 7-264-8343

Calle 3ra y B, Vedado

Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa (+53) 5 -294-3572

Other

Sarao’s Bar

Bolabana

5+

X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts, funky young scene.

Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma.

(+53) 7-836-3031

Fábrica de Arte

4+

Expat favorite hangout. Small indoor bar with live music and eclectic clientele. Calle 18 e/ 3ra y 5ta, Miramar

Bertolt Brecht

5

Think MTV Unplugged. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354

Gay-friendly Cabaret Las Vegas

4

Can get dark and smoky but great drag show (11pm) from Divino—one of Cuba’s most accomplished drag acts. Infanta #104 e/ 25 y 27, Vedado. (+53) 7-870-7939

lahabana

El Sauce

5-

Mellow outdoor club. Avenida 9na #12015, e/ Calles 120 y 130, Miramar. (07) 204-6428

Fashion Bar Havana

A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676

Cuba's Digital Destination

5

Café Bar Madrigal

4

Pop décor, fancy cocktails, and the staff’s supercilious attitude, this is a gathering spot for all types of folks. Calle 17 #809 e/ 2 y 4, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2433

page 75

Bertolt Brecht

5

TOP PICK

Contemporary Bar/clubs Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with hip & funky Cubans who like their live music. Don’t Miss Interactivo playing on a Wednesday evening. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354

Espacios

5-

TOP PICK

Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Laid back lounge atmosphere in the garden area which often has live music. Good turnover of people. Don’t Miss Ray Fernandez, Tony Avila, Yasek Mazano playing live sets in the garden. Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7-202-2921

Sangri-La

5+

TOP PICK

Contemporary Bar/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on the Havana Farundula in the most popular bar/club. Don’t Miss The best gin and tonic in Havana. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5-264-8343

Bolabana

5

TOP PICK

CONTEMPORARY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Trendy new location near Salón Rosado de la Tropical Don’t Miss Hipsters meet the Havana Farándula Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa

lahabana

Cuba's Digital Destination

page 76

Sloppy Joe’s Bar

4+

CA TOP PICK

Style

Bar / Traditional

Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Immense original bar lovingly restored. Good service, History. Worst for Not quite grimy. Too clean. Ánimas, esq. Zulueta La Habana Vieja, (07) 866-7157

Fábrica de Arte

5+

TOP PICK

Contemporary Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for X Alfonso’s superb new cultural center has something for everyone Don’t Miss Artists who exhibit work should demonstrate ongoing creativity and a commitment for social transformation. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro)

Fashion Bar Havana

5

TOP PICK

Gay-friendly Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. Don’t Miss The staff performing after 11pm San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676

TaBARish

5

TOP PICK

Contemporary Bar/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service. Don’t Miss The homemade Russian soup – just like Matushka makes it. Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma. (+53) 7-202-9188

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Cuba's Digital Destination

page 77

Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís

Havana’s best live music venues

Concert venues Karl Marx Theatre

5

World class musicians perform prestigious concerts in Cuba’s best equipped venue. Calle 1ra esq. a 10, Miramar (+53) 7-203-0801

Jazz Café Jazz Miramar

4+

5

A truly beautiful church, which regularly hosts fabulous classical music concerts.

Salsa/Timba

Café Cantante Mi Habana

4

Attracts the best Cuban musicians. Recently renovated with an excellent new sound system. Ave. Paseo esq. a 39, Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 7-878-4273

Contemporary Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht

5

Think MTV Unplugged when musicians play. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354

Trova & traditional 4+

Some of the best Cuban Nueva Trova musicians perform in this small and intimate environment. Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del Zoológico. Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-1808

lahabana

5

X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts inside (small and funky) and outside (large and popular!).

Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro)

Jazz Café

La Zorra y el Cuervo

4

Galerías de Paseo Ave. 1ra e/ Paseo y A, Vedado

Cine Teatro Miramar 10:30pm – 2am Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar

Fábrica de Arte

Oficios y Amargura, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Habana Vieja

A staple of Havana’s jazz scene, the best jazz players perform here. Somewhat cold atmosphere-wise.

Clean, modern and atmospheric. Where Cuba’s best musicians jam and improvise.

Barbaram Pepito’s Bar

Basílica San Francisco de Asís

Casa de la Música

Intimate and atmospheric, this basement jazz club, which you enter through a red telephone box, is Cuba’s most famous. Calle 23 e/ N y O, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2402

4

Casa de la Música

Centro Habana

Miramar

A little rough around the edges but spacious. For better or worse, this is ground zero for the best in Cuban salsa.

Smaller and more up-market than its newer twin in Centro Habana. An institution in the Havana salsa scene.

Galiano e/ Neptuno y Concordia, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-8296/4165

Calle 20 esq. a 35, Miramar (+53) 7-204-0447

Don Cangrejo

4+

Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. Ave. 1ra e/ 16 y 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837

Gato Tuerto

4+

Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. Calle O entre 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224

5

El Sauce

4

5-

Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Revolución.

Privé Lounge

5+

Small and intimate lounge club with great acoustics and beautiful decor. Jazz groups play Sunday night. Calle 88A #306 e/ 3ra y 3raA, Miramar (+53) 7-209-2719

Salón Rosado de la Tropical

5

Teatro de Bellas Artes

4+

Small intimate venue inside Cuba’s most prestigious arts museum. Modern. Trocadero e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, Habana Vieja.

5

The 1950s traditionals, a project created over 10 years ago, pays tribute to the Golden Era of Cuban music: the 1950s.

Cuba's Digital Destination

Recently renovated, one of Cuba’s most prestigious venues for a multitude of events.

Ave. 41 esq. a 46, Playa Times: varies wildly (+53) 7-203-5322

Ave. 9na #12015 e/ 120 y 130, Playa (+53) 7-204-6428

Sociedad Rosalia de Castro, Egido #504 e/ Monte y Dragones, Havana Vieja (+53) 7-861-7761

5

Teatro Nacional

The legendary beer garden where Arsenio tore it up. Look for a salsa/timba gig on a Sat night and a Sun matinee.

Great outdoor concert venue to hear the best in contemporary & Nueva Trova live in concert.

Tradicionales de los 50

Sala Covarrubias

4+ Salón 1930 ‘Compay Segundo’ Buena Vista Social Club style set in the grand Hotel Nacional. Hotel Nacional Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835-3896

page 78

Havana’s Best Hotels

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

Simply the best… Iberostar Parque Central

5+

Santa Isabel

5+

Luxurious historic mansion facing Plaza de Armas

Luxury hotel overlooking Parque Central

5+

Stunning view from roof-top pool. Beautiful décor.

Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201

Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-6627

Saratoga

Terral

5

Wonderful ocean front location. Newly renovated.

Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a Dragones, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201

Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro Habana (+53) 7-862-8061

Boutique Hotels in Old Havana Florida

5

Beautifully restored colonial house.

5

Cuban baroque meets modern minimalist

Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-862-4127

Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura, Habana Vieja

Business Hotels Meliá Cohíba

Palacio del Marqués...

5

Oasis of polished marble and professional calm.

Meliá Habana

5

Attractive design & extensive facilities.

Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7- 833-3636

4

A must for Hemingway aficionados

Mercure Sevilla

4

Trocadero #55 entre Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8560

On the banks of the Río Almendares. Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B, Reparto Kohly, Playa (+53) 7-204-9232

lahabana

3

Deauville

Lack of pretension, great location. Galiano e/ Sán Lázaro y Malecón, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-8812

4+

Hotel Nacional

Saint John’s

Lively disco, tiny quirky pool. Popular. Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-833-3740

Cuba's Digital Destination

H10 Habana Panorama

4+

Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi. Modern. Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar (+53) 7 204-0100

5

Riviera

3

Spectacular views over wavelashed Malecón

Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835 3896

3

5

Mercaderes #202, esq. a Lamparilla (+53) 7-862-9293

Eclectic art-deco architecture. Gorgeous gardens.

Economical/Budget Hotels Bosque

Occidental Miramar

Conde de Villanueva

Delightfully small and intimate. For cigar lovers.

Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1037

Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3583

Stunning views from the roof garden restaurant.

Calle Obispo #153 esq. a Mercaderes, Habana Vieja (+53) 7- 860-9529

5+

Immensely charming, great value.

Good value, large spacious modern rooms.

Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar (+53) 5-204-8500

For a sense of history Ambos Mundos

Hostal Valencia

Paseo y Malecón, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4051

3

Vedado

3

Good budget option with a bit of a buzz Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4072

page 79

Havana’s best private places to stay

Bohemia Boutique Apartments For Help reserving any Private Accommodation (Casas Particulares) in Cuba please contact [email protected]

Mid range - Casa Particular (B&B) 1932

Miramar 301

4

Visually stunning, historically

5

Habana

5

LUXURY HOUSE

5

Hospitable.

4 bedrooms private luxury villa with swimming pool

Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-6203

Julio y Elsa

Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-861-0253

Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana (+53) 7-861-8027

Casa Escorial

Hostal Guanabo

Up-scale B&Bs (Boutique hostals) Cañaveral House

5 Vitrales

But undoubtedly the most in Cuba

39A street, #4402, between 44 y 46, Playa, La Habana Cuba (+53) 295-5700 http://www.cubaguesthouse. com/canaveral.home. html?lang=en

5

5+

a panoramic view of Plaza Vieja

bedrooms.

Mercaderes # 315 apt 3 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-268 6881; 5-278 6148 [email protected]

Habana #106 e/ Cuarteles y Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-2607

5

front villa in sleepy Guanabo. Excellent food. Calle 480 #1A04 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Guanabo (+53) 7-799-0004

Apartment rentals Bohemia Boutique Apartments

5+

decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja.

Luxury Houses

5

Rent Room elegant and wellequipped garden and great pool. Calle 17 #1101 e/ 14 y 16, Vedado (+34) 677525361 (+53) 7-832-1927 (+53) 5-360-0456

Casablanca

Tropicana Penthouse

5

5

Morro-Cabaña Park. House #29 (+53) 5-294-5397 www.havanacasablanca.com

Michael and María Elena This leafy oasis in western modern bedrooms. Calle 66 #4507 e/ 45 y Final, Playa (+53) 7-209-0084

Cuba's Digital Destination

5

Lamparilla #62 altos e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-829-6524

Galiano #60 Penthouse Apt.10 e/ San Lázaro y Trocadero (+53) 5-254-5240 www.tropicanapenthouse.com

Elegant well-equipped villa formerly owned by Fulgencio

Suite Havana

Elegant 2-bedroom apartment in restored colonial building.

A luxurious penthouse with huge roof terrace and breathtaking 360 degree views of Havana and the ocean.

Concordia #151 apto. 8 esq. a San Nicolás, Centro Habana (+53) 5-254-5240 www.casaconcordia.net

San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja Habana Vieja (+53) 5- 403-1 568 (+53) 7-836-6567 www.havanabohemia.com

lahabana

5+

and spacious 3 bedroom apartment. Spanish colonial interiors with cheerful, arty accents.

Gorgeous 1-bedroom

Villasol

Casa Concordia

5

Residencia Mariby

5

A sprawling vanilla-hued mansion with 6 rooms decorated with colonial-era furniture Vedado. (+53) 5-370-5559

PAGE 80

Bohemia Boutique Apartments Blue

5+

TOP PICK

Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for i1 internal balcony, 1 spacious bedroom on the mezzanine with air conditioning. Don’t Miss The apartment is fully furbished, plenty of light and very well ventilated. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja [email protected] (+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567 www.havanabohemia.com

Bohemia Boutique Apartments Red

5+

TOP PICK

Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for 3 small balconies (facing the Patio of the Palace), 1 spacious bedroom with air conditioning Don’t Miss The apartment is fully furbished, plenty of light and very well ventilated. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja [email protected] (+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567 www.havanabohemia.com

Casa Escorial

5+

TOP PICK

Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Attractive accomodations with a panoramic view of Plaza Vieja Don’t Miss The smell of fresh made coffee from the café below. Mercaderes # 315 apt 3 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-268 6881; 5-278-6148 [email protected]

Cañaveral House

5+

TOP PICK

Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Large elegant villa away from downtown Havana. Great for families or groups of friends. Don’t Miss Basking in the sun as you stretch out on the lawn of the beautifully kept garden. 39A street, #4402, between 44 y 46, Playa, La Habana Cuba (+53) 295-5700 http://www.cubaguesthouse.com/canaveral.home. html?lang=en

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