lahabana magazine

Christmas comes to Havana dec 2017

1 DEc 2017 including guide to Havana’s best events, including art guide and entertainment, to the best places places toto eat, stay, drink, restaurants, dance and bars stay and in nightlife havana

e d i to r i a l

photos cover and editorial Alex Mene & Ana Lorena

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December has arrived and, with it, the holiday season. This is a lovely time to visit Cuba—still warm enough to go to the beach and packed with cultural events. For Cubans, Christmas is all about family and friends, a time to celebrate life with good food and good music. It is largely free from the mass consumerist binge elsewhere and arguably truer to the roots of familial solidarity. Although it is largely a low-key event, two towns in Cuba celebrate the holiday season in a really big way: the Parrandas de Remedios and the Charangas de Bejucal, famous for their carnivals featuring elaborate floats and firework displays. Several articles in this issue shed light on how Cubans have celebrated the holiday season throughout time. We have also included a piece on the Pilgrimage to Rincón for the feast of San Lázaro on December 17, a fascinating fusion of Afro-Cuban Santeria with the Catholic Church. This month sees one of Cuba’s prime events: the International Festival of New Latin American Cinema (Dec 8-17), which serves as a launch pad for Latin American cinematography, having become one of the leading film festivals in the region.

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There are many outstanding cultural events this month. Whether it’s music, art, theater or dance, there is surely something for you. Find your favorite ones from our Listings. However, we strongly would like to recommend the concert with Omara Portuondo, Diego el Cigala and Pancho Céspedes. Omara, the Buena Vista Social Club diva, celebrated her 85th birthday and 70 years of artistic career alongside outstanding flamenco singer Diego el Cigala in a successful, historic tour around Europe. Now it’s your chance to see these two magnificent performers in Cuba at the Karl Marx Theater on December 9, at 8:30 pm. Surely, an event not to miss! The Lizt Alfonso Dance Cuba Company will be performing 1, 2, 3 ¡Todos a escena, a selection of its most famous choreographies, at the Sala Avellaneda of the National Theater on December 5 (5 pm) and December 15 & 16 (8:30 pm). And in concert music, the López-Gavilán family will be on concert at the Basílica Menor del Convento de San Francisco de Asís on December 22 at 6 pm. Please, check our Listings for more events and our Havana Guide for the best restaurants, bars and hotels. As 2018 draws near, the LaHabana.com Team sends out to each one of our readers a message of peace and love. We wish you a merry Christmas and hope that 2018 is a year of health, happiness and prosperity for you and for Cuba. Abrazos! The LaHabana.com Team

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Mesón del Regidor - Intimate hotel in the heart of UNESCO city stunner This tiny hotel, with just four rooms, is found in a restored ochre and blue Spanish colonial building in the heart of Trinidad, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a cobblestone’s throw from the palaces-turned-museums, and main square and church, of this beautiful city, and the growing number of private restaurants. EEUU - [email protected] 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europa - [email protected] +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world- [email protected] +53 (0)7 214 0090

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CONTENTS december 2017

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Christmas comes to Havana Christmas and New year´s eve in Cuba

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Cuba Christmas holiday season

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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

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Las Parrandas de Remedios an explosive Christmans

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Charangas de Bejucal: a Xmas Extravaganza

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Pilgrimage to Rincón for the feast of San Lázaro

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Havana Listings Music Theater Dance

Art Exhibitions Photography Film Events

Havana Guide Restaurants Bars & Clubs Hotels

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Christmas and New Year’s Eve in Cuba

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Prior to 1959 and in the early years of the Revolution, some households followed the custom of cleaning the floor of their homes with a special kind of green-colored sawdust so that the Magi would find everything spic-andspan, and setting out food and water for the camels. The children followed the custom, just like nowadays, of writing letters with their requests and thanking the Wise Men for what they would receive. For most kids, this belief would last throughout their infancy until the rumor that “the Magi are mom and dad” would start to spread. The older kids in the know would then become their parents’ accomplices in hiding this fact from the small ones. With the radicalization of the Revolution, Cuba officially became an atheist nation in 1962, although the Christmas holiday continued to be celebrated until 1969. The Magi slowly began to be consigned to oblivion as well as the festivities that surrounded the Nativity of Jesus Christ. There was no place for Christmas trees, ornaments or lights. Moreover, Catholic churches were practically deserted on Christmas Eve during the celebration of Midnight Mass.

December is a special month in Cuba as throughout the Western world. Early in the month, people begin to get ready for the holidays. Homes, shops, hotels, restaurants and other public or private entities are decorated with lights and Christmas trees that survive at least until January 6, when the Three Wise Men of the East come riding on camelback bringing gifts for the children who have behaved well throughout the year. The gift-bearing Three Wise Men is a tradition in Spanish Catholicism that is deeply-rooted in Cuba, much more than the super-hyped Santa Claus. Despite the cultural influence of the United States upon the island— particularly strong during the first half of the 20th century and which has remained to this day through music, movies and TV, as well as Xmas ornaments sold around this time of year—the white-bearded and red-suited Santa clearly loses the battle against the Three Kings of the Orient who paid homage and brought gifts to the newborn Christ child in the manger in Bethlehem, a scene that is repeated in every Catholic church in the world around this time of the year. In recent times, however, old jolly St. Nick is increasingly growing in popularity among many Cuban children who receive gifts both on Christmas and on Epiphany to their benefit, but at the expense of their parents who pay the price of this cultural amalgamation that characterizes Cuba.

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Although “Nochebuena”—Christmas Eve—was dropped from the Cuban calendar of holidays in 1969, many families continued to come together on that day for the traditional meal of roast pork, rice and black beans, boiled cassava in garlic sauce and a large salad of tomatoes, lettuce, cabbage, radishes and whatever vegetables could be found at markets. Dinner would be topped off with classical desserts such as buñuelos, a kind of cassava fritter shaped into the form of a number eight and served with anise syrup. In the early 1980s, apples, mostly from Bulgaria and the Soviet Union, could be bought at subsidized prices. The disintegration of the Socialist Bloc brought about an extremely harsh period for the nation and its people during the 90s. Foodstuffs were severely reduced and this, of course, was reflected on the Christmas dinner. The visit of Pope John Paul II was a landmark in the religious openness that was already taking place on the island. In 1997, the government declared Christmas a holiday in honor of the Pope’s upcoming visit in 1998. The following year, December 25 was officially declared as a national holiday. Today, practically everybody in Cuba, whether Christians, atheists, Catholics or believers of Afro-Cuban religions, celebrate Christmas Eve and New Year as a way for reconnecting with family and friends in a usually intimate climate. The late 19th century saw the creation of a number of cultural and recreational associations. These “Sociedades” were divided according to the color of the skin. On December 31, these centers would organize balls and dinners allowing the attendance of children on that sole occasion. On that day, and only on that day, the Sociedades admitted people of different races, and whites, blacks and mulattos could be seen dancing and reveling together as equals. Many years later, this same spirit of equality and sharing inspired collective dinners in different urban communities, in which food was provided by the neighbors. Together, they welcomed the New Year, congratulating and wishing each other the best in the coming year, and eating 12 grapes as a symbol of each month. In the early years of the Revolution, collective dinners were organized on New Year’s Eve, the most famous being the Giant Dinners at the Plaza de la Revolución.

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Traditions remain but the way they are celebrated change with the passage of time. Today, many people prefer to celebrate New Year’s Eve at a restaurant or a nightclub in which special dinners are prepared and enjoyed along with a show. Most Cubans, however, continue to prefer to celebrate the arrival of the New Year at home with pretty much the same dinner as for Christmas, except that chicken or turkey may substitute the omnipresent pork. Diehard Cubans, though, can’t conceive this day without a slice—or two or three—of their favorite meat. Beer, red wine and rum are the favorite drinks, while a sparkling wine is reserved for the toasts at midnight. If there isn’t a party going, then families will sit down in front of the TV to see the special shows, which are mostly musical or humorous. At 12, the official ceremony with the 12-gun salute is broadcast live from the Cabaña Fortress. Many Cubans follow the custom of throwing a bucketful of water out into the street at midnight as a kind of exorcism, in which the bad things from the year gone by are expelled letting in the good things that the New Year may bring. Another custom that has become increasingly popular is walking around the block with a suitcase waving goodbye to their neighbors, in the hope that this farce will actually come true and ensure them a trip abroad. On January 1, the streets are deserted and silent. This day is also the Anniversary of the Triumph of the Revolution. Almost everyone rests on this day after all the partying the day before, but it is not unusual to hold a party that night because January 2 is also a holiday. If you happen to be visiting Cuba around the Christmas holidays, try to spend Nochebuena or New Year’s Eve with a Cuban family. There you will become acquainted with the warmth and hospitality of the inhabitants of the largest island in the Caribbean.

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Cuban

Christmas Holiday Season

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by Aimara Fernández photo Ana Lorena and Mene

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health—¡Salud!—and good fortune punctuate the day. And don’t forget the consumption of “saoco” (coconut milk and rum). In the city, the celebration is more urban. The menu includes chicken, turkey or pork cooked in an oven. Traditional desserts go hand in hand with almond nougats imported from Spain, and the saoco is replaced with red and sparkling wines. Music is nonstop and the toasts of “¡Felicidades!” ring out. Whether in the city or the countryside, Christmas for Cubans remains an intimate affair, for family celebrations and reunions.

It feels like spring and yet it is winter in the Cuban countryside, which grows more beautiful bathed in the colors of the sunset. No one talks about Santa, and there are no evergreens covered with snow. But Christmas in the campo (countryside) is as close as Cuba gets to a traditional Christmas. The morning of December 24 sees the pig marinated in sour orange juice and covered with fresh guava leaves. The roast begins early in the morning, spreading an aroma that pervades every corner of the backyard where the pig is cooked in an open fire over charcoal or wood. Smells of rice, black beans, tamales, fried plantains, cassava with criollo sauce made from crushed garlic and lemon juice emanate from the kitchen. Vegetables are plentiful here and large salads of tomato, lettuce, cucumber and radishes are prepared. The children run around the large table waiting for the rice custard, bread pudding, peanut nougat, grated coconut and guava shells cooked in syrup. The sound of repeated toasts to

As New Year’s Eve approaches, the ambience changes and the scene is set for another feast: a more social party with more friends. A party for everyone, from great grandparents to the youngest child. Grandma may talk about the famous almond nougats that arrived at Havana’s port straight from the city of Alicante, but she’ll also get up and dance. The kids stay up and maybe dance too. I still remember my grandfather telling me a condensed version of his life story every New Year’s Eve. These are the memories that he bestows on me and I in turn look to instill in my children. At midnight, a 12-gun salute is fired from the Cabaña Fortress greeting the New Year. The streets are suddenly filled with water but it isn’t raining—the people are throwing buckets of water out onto the street from balconies, rooftops, porches and doorways to get rid of all the bad and let the good come in. Others, who hope to travel, walk around the block carrying suitcases. The twelve grapes symbolizing the twelve months are eaten and a toast to health and prosperity is made with sparkling wine. Another year has passed and a new year begins. Viva Cuba. Viva la familia.

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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

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by Victoria Alcalá

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Every time Christmas comes around, I can’t help remembering when I was five or six years old, sitting on the floor of my house with my cousins, cracking walnuts and hazelnuts by indisputable order of my father. The delicious smell of sour oranges, garlic and spices coming out from the kitchen every time somebody opened the oven door to check the turkey or leg of pork got mixed with the sweet aroma of the syrup that my grandmother was preparing for the “buñuelos.”[1] The voices of Barbarito Diez or Elvis Presley on the record player were muffled by the hullabaloo made by uncles and aunts (thanks to the many mojitos that my dad would prepare) who all bustled around the dinner table putting dressing in huge bowls of salad, cutting up nougats decorated with marzipan and dried figs, placing the linen tablecloths and napkins and the china dinner service used only on special occasions, and taking out from mahogany cabinets the fine glassware that was rarely used and the silverware that had been polished carefully days before.

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Many years have gone by since then. The custom of celebrating Christmas Eve practically disappeared in Cuba in the mid-1960s, only to reappear strongly in the past two or three decades. But the linen tablecloths were transformed into dresses; the silverware was sold to meet more urgent needs; many family members are no longer with us; walnuts and hazelnuts are purchased without the shell; the old record players were replaced by tape recorders and CD and DVD players; and instead of listening to Barbarito and The King, the young people now listen to a wide range of both international and Cuban music. The joy that surrounds the Christmas season has once more brightened Cuban homes, and families get together during the festivities. Believers or not, the holiday spirit ends up infecting everybody. Christmas trees begin to appear in many homes since early December and at my house, in particular, putting up and trimming the tree takes on an almost ceremonial character. The decision of what decorations to put on the tree becomes a complex operation since my son insists on buying a new decoration each year, which increases our reserves from year to year. dic 2017

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The next step in a Cuban Christmas celebration involves the menu for the December 24 and 25, and January 1, what friends are to be invited and purchases to be made, including new clothes and gifts for the children. Savings and remittances from relatives or friends who live abroad are spent without giving much thought to what will happen beyond the festivities. After all, as Scarlett O’Hara would say, “Tomorrow is another day.” The more farsighted start shopping early in December for chicken, turkey or pork for the special dinners of the 24th and 31st of December. The cooking in itself is an event during the festivities and is an excellent excuse for reuniting families. Pork—or chicken or turkey—is usually marinated with crushed garlic, sour oranges, oregano and cumin the day before and roasted on the special day. This year I plan to substitute fresh orange and pineapple juice for the sour oranges, and chicken breasts for the pork. The rest of the menu includes white rice and black beans or “moros y cristianos”[2]; boiled cassava served with a sauce made of garlic, salt and sour orange juice; “tostones”[3]; and a large salad of tomatoes, lettuce, cabbage, radishes, and whatever vegetables are available in the market. These meals are usually accompanied by beer or red wine. Cider or champagne is usually reserved for drinking a toast at midnight for the New Year. According to how much each family can afford, dinner is completed with classical desserts, like buñuelos, bread pudding or custards, and imported nougat, grapes and apples. Some families accompany these special dinners with music and dancing that go on till the small hours of the morning, while for other families it is a quiet and intimate affair. It is customary to congratulate friends, colleagues and relatives who are far away during the days prior to Christmas. Alas, the beautiful postcards that we used to receive by mail have been replaced by postcards that can be downloaded free from the Internet although some prefer to personalize their Christmas and New Year messages and create their own postcards with family pictures, or rural or urban views. Gifts are almost always for the little ones—clothes or treats on the 25th and toys on the Epiphany on January 6, which closes the cycle of festivities.

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lahabana. com With the new times, certain rituals have changed. Midnight Mass, for instance, which was reserved for practicing Catholics, is being attended now by many people of faith, who believe in God but who do not go to church on a regular basis. You might even find non-believers in church that day. One custom that has survived throughout time is throwing a bucket of water onto the street on

the December 31 to get rid of all the bad things accumulated during the year that is coming to an end and clean the way for the approaching year. Other beliefs include wearing white on that day for good luck and girls looking for husbands should light a red candle exactly at midnight. It you see anybody walking around with a suitcase that means that they hope to travel during the coming year.

The holidays however are not restricted to the 24th or the 31st. Festivities begin in mid-December in workplaces, and on the pretext of annual balance, achieved goals, etc, etc, etc, workers prepare parties with the inevitable pork and meat and vegetable stew called “caldosa,” as well as rum and beer that help loosen up and have a good time.

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[1] Buñuelos: A popular Cuban dessert made especially for Christmas, which is prepared with mashed boiled cassava to which a pinch of salt, flour and beaten whole eggs is added. The mixture is kneaded and shaped into the form of a number eight, deep fried in hot vegetable oil and served with anise or cinnamon-scented syrup. [2] Moros y cristianos: Rice cooked together with previously softened black beans to which salt, garlic, onions, pimiento, oregano, cumin and a bay leaf is added. [2] Tostones: Green plantains cut into pieces and fried over medium heat. The fried plantains are drained and smashed flat and fried again quickly over very hot heat. They are served sprinkled with salt.

Happy new Year !!

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Reserve one flight and travel to three destinations It’s now possible to take one flight and unite three popular Cuban destinations. To save time, you can now take advantage of the daily Boeing 737 departure from Havana and travel to Holguín and Cayo Coco. This offer lasts until October 2017. Two daily flights, one in the morning, the other in the afternoon, will transport you to explore these three destinations. Havana. The cultural and nightlife epicenter of Cuba. Holguín. Known as the city of parks, we suggest you visit the emblematic Hill of the Cross. Cayo Coco. Known for its exotic nature and beautiful beaches, here you’ll find comfort and rest in its modern resorts.

Enjoy your vacations to the max with one flight and three destinations

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Las

Parrandas

de Remedios: An explosive Christmas by Victoria Alcalá photo Ana Lorena and Mene

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Las Parrandas de Remedios takes place on Christmas Eve annually. Although the celebration has also spread to other cities, the singularly beautiful Remedios is the place to be to appreciate this highlight of Cuba’s cultural calendar. On this day citizens take sides and face off against each other with floats, fireworks and dancing. Authentic, exciting, colorful, loud—don’t expect to get much sleep…...

This tradition dates back to the 1820 when a young priest named Francisco Vigil de Quiñones noticed that in the chilly mornings of the last days of the year, his congregations were dwindling. People seemed to prefer to spend time in their warm beds than fill the pews of his church. To persuade them to change their ways, he came up with an ingenuous solution. He got together a group of children and encouraged them to make as much noise as they could. They were instructed to gather horns, tins full of pebbles, maracas, pots and pans, and do whatever was necessary to ensure that everyone would be up for the series of masses beginning on the 16th and ending on the 24th of December. The plan worked. The church soon filled up, and one of the most popular festivities celebrated in Cuba, the Parrandas de Remedios, was born. By 1835, the tradition had become so successful that a decree was issued by the government forbidding the noisy parade before 4 am. A few years later, the cacophony had evolved into an orchestra, with singers, guitars, mandolins, harps, congas, claves and an instrument that was used exclusively in parrandas, the atambora—a small barrel-shaped drum covered with a tanned goat hide.

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More changes followed over the following 150 years, leading to the presentday mixture of music, art, and firework. The dramatic finale on Christmas Eve is now a wild battle of firework displays, lights and artwork between two huge floats, each representing one half of the town. The parranderos make a tour of the neighborhoods of Remedios, dancing to the sound of polkas and rumbas composed more than a century ago. The competitive character that survives in today’s celebrations goes back to the mid-19th century. The eight neighborhoods into which the town was then divided organized themselves into two rival groups, El Carmen and San Salvador, each with its own musical clan. Today, the main event on December 24 still begins with a “rival rumba” between the two clans. This celebration has now extended to nearby cities including Camajuaní, Vueltas, Caibarién, Guayos and Encrucijada, as well as to other towns in central Cuba. But nowhere are they rivals to Remedios. Year after year, the town spends several months making the elaborate floats, homemade rockets, costumes and all the other paraphernalia connected with the festival. All is done in the strictest secrecy to be revealed only on the opening night of the parrandas. At 10pm on December 24, the church bells ring announcing the start of festivities. The night sky glows with fireworks for several hours. Stunning art works on the plaza are lit, and the floats—the result of many hundreds of hours of labor by carpenters, electricians, designers, dressmakers and whole teams of local workers—begin their triumphal parade. The Carmelitas from the Carmen neighborhood, and the Sansaríes from the San Salvador neighborhood, travel down Remedios’ old streets. In this competition, devoid of judges and juries, everyone’s a winner. At dawn, around the same time those sleepy locals were roused from their sleep two centuries ago, Remedios’ visitors, many wearing hats as a protection against the fireworks, head to their beds. Meanwhile, the residents of El Carmen and San Salvador begin secretly planning next year’s Parrandas.

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Charangas de Bejucal: a Xmas Extravaganza by Victoria Alcala

Back in the day, picturesque Bejucal was a prosperous town that eagerly anticipated Christmas celebrations all year. On that day, slave-owners would give their slaves the opportunity to enjoy themselves, sing their songs and even throng to the main square to collect their year-end bonuses. As time went on, many Spanish and white Creoles would also organize their own revelry thereby giving birth to the two opposing bands that have remained today in the Charangas. At first named Malayos (Spanish and white Creoles) identifiable by the color red and the rooster symbol, and Musicanga (slaves and black freemen) symbolized by the scorpion and the color blue, they brought life to the festivities with their own music and dances and especially their “pullas” or mocking allusions to the rival band. Although it is impossible to attach a starting date, the seeds for the subsequently famous Bejucal dic 2017 19

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Charangas are buried in twentieth-century Christmas festivities, which, little by little, began incorporating a veritable arsenal of percussion and wind instruments, dances, tonadas and rustic floats (the carrozas that started out as simple stretchers carried on peoples’ shoulders). With the passing of the years and the advent of Cuban independence aspirations, quite a large number of creoles went over to the Musicanga side as a manner of putting distance between themselves and the Spanish. With the advent of the Republic, racial and nationality divisions started to fade away. The bands changed their names. Malayos became La Espina de Oro keeping the color red, and Musicanga became La Ceiba de Plata symbolized by blue. Music in both bands became definitely Cuban strongly flavored with African roots while the traditional conga sustained the pullas. The carrozas became more complex, transformed by genius and inventiveness to combine the idea of one single moving vehicle like the floats in the Havana Carnival parade with the exuberant, static Remedios central square structures. But one detail sets them apart: the unveiled “surprises” demonstrating technology that grew more modern with the times, operated by hidden mechanisms in the interior of the shell, moving incredible elements into the air, sometimes up to heights of twenty-five meters. Because of their powerful hold on people, the Charangas have resisted wars, economic crises, shortages and periods of intolerance. They have arrived at our day with their contagious load of joy, music and popular wit. They take place on December 24, 25 and 26, and January 1, attracting thousands of locals and visitors who dance in the streets, have fun with the typical characters La Kulona, La Mojiganga and La Macorina, enjoying typical festive treats, such as roasted suckling-pig sandwiches, tamales, peanut nougat, churros and cotton candy, all supplemented generously with beer and rum. The people lose themselves in the streets following the sound of the congas and go back to their childhood as they catch their breath in amazement to see the “surprises” presented by each of the bands who, at the end of the party, are already getting ready to prepare for next year’s Charangas. In 2015, the Charangas de Bejucal joined the Parrandas de Remedios and the Santiago de Cuba Carnival in the list of popular celebrations declared Cultural Heritage of the Cuban Nation. dic 2017 20

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Pilgrimage

to Rincón for the

feast of

San Lázaro

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The Pilgrimage to Rincón for the feast of San Lázaro that takes place on December 17 is the largest annual religious pilgrimage in Cuba. On this day, over 5,000 people from various parts of Cuba visit the church of the leper colony located in the town of Rincón, about 25 miles south of Havana. This is a potent demonstration of fusion of Afro-Cuban Santeria with the Catholic Church given that most people do not make the pilgrimage out of devotion to the saint that is recognized by the Catholic Church—Lazarus, resurrected by Jesus Christ and later Bishop of Marseilles, whose skin was cruelly lacerated before being decapitated on December 17, 72 AD—but to a Lazarus who is the result of the curious combination of the sick beggar of the parable in Luke 16:1931, whose sores were licked by dogs, and Babalú-Ayé, a deity of the Yoruba pantheon, Orisha of smallpox, leprosy, venereal diseases and skin. Because of this unorthodox mix, another curious phenomenon occurs: it is not the image of Lazarus, Bishop of Marseille that presides the altar of the church whom the pilgrims pay respect to, but to another image situated to the left of the high altar, which the Church considers the same saint, but which popular tradition identifies with the Syncretic Lazarus, the one in crutches accompanied by a dog. This is the ‘Saint’ Lazarus (a result of the diffuse religiosity that characterizes the average Cuban) to whom the faithful make offerings and sacrifices as a token of gratitude. And because in the collective imaginary “old Lazarus collects his due,” no one dares to break their word. The long journey to Rincón begins on December 15 and 16. Many people use some sort of transportation to go as far as the town of Santiago de las Vegas and walk a few kilometers to the church. Others walk all the way from their homes to the leprosarium. Some come barefooted, or on their knees, or wearing clothes made of jute sack, or towing heavy objects such as large rocks, cement blocks, lead ingots and even cannon balls. What prevails in the majority is gratitude for favors received or the faith that their prayers will be heard. So, after the initial shock one experiences at the many forms of self-punishment, what follows is simple and plain compassion. The old man who drags his feet as he walks along the rough road makes one inevitably assume that he has a seriously ill grandson. The woman that leaves a trail of blood from her knees probably has a child in danger. No wonder when Pope John Paul II visited Cuba in 1998 and expressed his wish to have “an encounter with pain,” the place chosen was Rincón, the lazaretto in Havana that is home to the most serious cases of leprosy and where every December 17 tears, flowers, candles and many other offerings bear witness to the pilgrim’s faith.

Leprosy For many Cubans, Rincón is associated with dismal images related to leprosy. The presence in this town of people affected with the illness dates back to 1917 when the hospital, which treated the sick since the 18th century, was transferred to this territory in the outskirts of Havana, and consequently, expanded. Today, leprosy is no longer a health problem in Cuba as the number of people infected with this disease is very small. In 1962, the leprosarium became the Specialist Dermatology Hospital which serves all other skin diseases, such as psoriasis, lupus erythematosus, chronic or acute dermatitis. The few cases of leprosy which have been identified are treated as outpatients. However, when Pope John Paul II asked to have a “meeting with pain” during his visit to Cuba in 1998, the place chosen was Rincón, where on December 17 the many offerings give witness to the faith of the pilgrim. dic 2017 22

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BEST EVENTS THIS MONTH Our suggestions for the best events you won’t want to miss

VII Salón de Arte Contemporáneo Cubano Through January 20

CENTRO DE DESARROLLO DE LAS ARTES VISUALES

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BEST EVENTS THIS MONTH

1, 2, 3 ¡Todos a escena! Show by the Lizt Alfonso Dance Cuba Company • December 5 at 5 pm; December 15 & 16 at 8:30 pm; CENTRO DE DESARROLLO DE LAS ARTES VISUALES

Peticiones by artist Martha María Pérez Through January 20

GALERÍA LA ACACIA DEc 2017 25

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BEST EVENTS THIS MONTH Our suggestions for the best events you won’t want to miss

com magazine lahabana. BEST EVENTS THIS magazine MONTH La Música de Haydée Milanés December 20 at 8:30 pm

Performance by one of the best Cuban singers today, who stands out for her warm voice, impeccable musicality and excellent repertoire. TEATRO MELLA

Familia López Gavilán December 22 at 6 pm

Premios Lucas December 15-17 at 8:30 pm

Festival of Cuban music videos, which awards the best productions of the year in different categories. Live performances of popular bands and singers. TEATRO KARL MARX

Concert featuring the Música Eterna Chamber Orchestra conducted by Guido López-Gavilán and the La Habana Chamber Orchestra conducted by Daiana García, pianist Aldo López-Gavilán Junco and violinist Ismar LópezGavilán Junco, two of the most talented and versatile Cuban musicians, along with music students Andrea and Adriana López-Gavilán. BASÍLICA MENOR DEL CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS

dic 2017 26

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LIVE MUSIC VENUES

CASA DE LA MÚSICA MIRAMAR Avenida 35 esq. a 20, Miramar T: 7204 0447

Mon-Sun at 5 PM & 11 PM

Various popular live bands Phone for weekly program •

The best live music in Havana

LIVE MUSIC VENUES

Mondays at 11 pm

Sur Caribe • Tuesdays at 5 pm

Pedrito Calvo • Wednesdays at 11 pm

Juan Guillermo • Thursdays at 5 pm

Pupy y los que Son Son • Fridays at 5 pm

El Niño y la verdad • Fridays at 11 pm

NG La Banda • CAFÉ CANTANTE

PIANO BAR DIABLO TUN TUN

TEATRO NACIONAL

CASA DE LA MÚSICA MIRAMAR

Paseo y 39, El Vedado

Avenida 35 esq. a 20, Miramar

T: 7878 4275

T: 7204 0447

Mon-Sat

Various live music concerts Phone for weekly program • Mondays at 9 PM

Manana Club • Wednesdays at 5 pm

Qva Libre (fusion) • Thursdays at 5 pm

Karamba (fusion) •

Wed-Sun at 5 PM & 11 PM

Various live music concerts Phone for weekly program • Wednesdays at 5 PM

Aisar y el Expresso de Cuba • Wednesdays at 11 PM

Osain del Monte (rumba) • Thursdays at 5 PM

Ray Fernández (trova) • Thursdays at 11 PM

NG la Banda • Sundays at 5 PM

Discotemba • DEc sep 2017 27

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LIVE MUSIC VENUES

CABARET TURQUINO HOTEL HABANA LIBRE Calle L e/ 23 y 25, El Vedado T: 7834 6100

Phone for weekly program

Mondays at midnight

La Corte • Tuesdays at midnight

Fiebre Latina • Wednesdays at midnight

Caribe Girls • Thursdays at midnight

La Tabla • Fridays at midnight

Mónica Mesa • HABANA CAFÉ HOTEL COHÍBA Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, El Vedado T: 7833 3636 (after 6pm)

Phone for weekly program •

Saturdays at midnight

Mon-Sun from 10 pm to 11 pm

La Tabla •

Tribute to Buena Vista Social Club with the performances of the Rakatán Dance Company and the Jesús “Aguaje” Ramos Project •

Saturdays at midnight

Calle Cuba •

Saturdays

Various popular Cuban bands •

LA CASA DE 18

SARAO’S BAR

Calle 18 e/ 5ta. y 7ma., Miramar

Calle 17 esq. E, El Vedado

T: 7204 1212 & 7204 1718 ext. 105

T: 7832 0433

Tuesdays at 6 pm

Ernesto Rael • Tuesdays at 9 pm

Julio y Bebita • Wednesdays at 6 pm

Coralita Veloz and guests • Wednesdays at 8 pm

Héctor Téllez •

Thursdays at 6 pm

José Valladares and Luanda • Thursdays at 8 pm

Ginette del Sol and Lester Led • Fridays at 6 pm

Reinier Valdés • Fridays at 8 pm

Iván Friol •

Saturdays at 6 pm

Antuan and Lisette • Saturdays at 9 pm

Phone for weekly program • Soloist and groups of popular music

Ahí Na’má • Sundays at 6 pm

Georgiana • Sundays at 8:30 pm

Yadira • DEc sep 2017 28

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LIVE MUSIC VENUES

DON CANGREJO Avenida 1ra. #1606, entre 16 y 18, Miramar T: 7204 3837 y 7204 3839

Thu - Sat

Live concerts • Phone for weekly program

EL SAUCE Calle 9na. e/ 120 y 130, Playa

CORNER CAFÉ

T: 7204 7114 y 7204 7061

Calle B y 1ra, El Vedado

Tue-Sat

T: 7837 1220

Varied live performances

Phone for weekly program • Wednesdays from 3 am–6 am

DJ Mary Paz (Afterparty) •

Saturdays at 10 pm

David Torrens, Kelvis Ochoa & Ray Fernández (trova) Alternating weekly •

Fridays at 11 pm

Frank Delgado, Leni Wuaño, Tony Ávila, Nube Roja y Polito Ibáñez (trova) Alternating weekly •

Sundays at 5 pm

Discotemba La Máquina de la Melancolía

Sundays at 10 PM

Projecto “Enrédate” – vatious bands • LA PIRAGUA

CASA DE LA AMISTAD Paseo 406 e/ 17 y 19, El Vedado T: 7830 3114

Phone for weekly program • Saturdays at 8:30 PM

Grupo

Cristal •

dance music)

(Cuban

Sundays at 6:30 PM

La Vieja Escuela (rock)

LE SELECT

CLUB AMANECER

Calle 28 y 5ta. avenida, Miramar

Calle 15 #113 e/ N y Malecón, El Vedado

T: 7212 5268, 7207 9681, 7204 7410/4090/4098

T: 7832 9075

Phone for weekly program • FRIDAYS at 9 PM

Yaíma Sáez & her group • Saturdays at 8 PM1 AM

Cary Bridón & guests

Phone for weekly program •

Calle 19 y Malecón, El Vedado

Every other Saturday at 10 PM

Various music bands •

Mondays at 4 PM-8 PM

Habana Salsa • Saturdays at 4 PM8 PM

Explosión Rumbera

DEc 2017 29

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LIVE MUSIC VENUES

CASA DE LA MÚSICA PLAZA

BULE-BAR 66

Calle 31 esq. a 2, Plaza de la Revolución

San Rafael y Prado, Centro Habana

T: 7830 9351/7823

Phone for weekly program • Thu-Sun at 10 pm Live performances by various popular soloists and bands

Daily, opens at 10 pm

Varied live music • Wednesdays at 9 pm

María Alejandra y Cubanía • Thursdays at 9 pm

Los Zafiros • HOTEL MELIÁ HABANA 3ra e/ 88 y 80, Miramar

Saturdays at 8 pm

Grupo Moncada •

T: 7204 8500

LOBBY Mon, Tues, Thur from 6:30-8:30 pm

Mixtura Fina • Mon, fri from 8:30-11:30 pm

Contraste • Tuesdays from 8:30-11:30 pm

Oppening • Wed, Sat from 8:30-11:30 pm

Vocal Retro • Thursdays from 8:30-11:30

Armonía viva • Fridays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Pianist •

CAFETERIA Mondays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Trío Arco Iris • Tuesdays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Tiempo • Wednesdays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Trío Arco Iris • Thursdays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Laudes Habana • Fridays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Trío Arco Iris • Saturdays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Tiempo •

Saturdays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Laudes Habana • Sundays from 6:30-8:30 pm

Pianist • Sundays from 8:30-11:30

Armonía Viva • DEc 2017 30

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music

The best live music in Havana

FUSION & ROCK

magazine

LIVE MUSIC VENUES

SUBMARINO AMARILLO

CAFÉ MIRAMAR

Calles 17 y 6, El Vedado

5ta. Avenida y 94, Miramar

T: 7830-6808

T: 7203 7676

Phone for weekly program • Mon-Sat at 9 pm Sundays at 5 pm

The Sheppal • December 13 at 9 pm

Miel con Limón • Sundays at 5 pm

Eddy Escobar • Alternating weekly this

month

December 9 at 10 pm

Pablo Menéndez and his group Mezcla • CASA DE LA AMISTAD Paseo 406 e/ 17 y 19, El Vedado T: 7830 3114

Sundays at 5 pm

Vieja Escuela • CLUB TURF Calzada y F, El Vedado

CAFÉ TEATRO BERTOLT BRECHT Calle 13 Esq. a I, El Vedado T: 7832 9359

Phone for weekly program • Tuesdays at 11 pm

Interactivo •

T: 7833 2261

Fridays at 5 pm

From the Abyss • December 7 & 14 at 10 pm

Tanya and her group • HOTEL MELIÁ HABANA

RÍO CLUB

3ra e / 88 y 80, Miramar

Calle A #314 e/ 3ra. y 5ta., Miramar

T: 7204 8500

T: 7209 3389

Phone for weekly program • Saturdays from midnight to 6 am

Electronic music •

Daily at 11:30 pm

DJs Reitt and Thellu • JARDINES DE LA TROPICAL Avenida Tropical y Rizo, Playa

BALNEARIO UNIVERSITARIO EL CORAL Calles 1ra. y 42, Miramar

Fri & Sat from 1 pm1 am

Rapping, djing, vjing, dj-producers, breakdancing, graffiti writing, and other urban artists •

Saturdays from 8 pm-2 am

Electronic music, DJs • JARDINES DEL TEATRO MELLA Línea e/ A y B, El Vedado T: 7833 5651 y 7833 8696

December 27 at 5 pm

Cero Estrés • DEc 2017 31

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music

The best live music in Havana

magazine

FAC - FÁBRICA DE ARTE CUBANO

FAC FÁBRICA DE ARTE CUBANO

Place of Cuban culture with industrial scale of hipness. This literally is an art factory–multiple art galleries and endless performance venues. Always packed with funky crowds. There are also several bars and a restaurant. Check website for FAC’s opening and closing schedules. Calle 26 esquina a 11, El Vedado T: 7838-2260 www.fac.cu THURSDAYS 9 pm, Nave 4 - Dance classes

December 7, 14 & 21: Introductory lesson on Afro Beat taught by teacher and dancer Yosel Milanés. Open to the public • 9 pm, Nave 3

Classical music recitals by soloists and chamber music ensembles •

FRIDAYS

SATURDAYS

8:30 pm, Nave 3 - Contemporary dance classes

9:30 pm, Nave 1 - Session Dj Productores •

December 8: Proyecto Cubita 2017 • 9:30 pm, Nave 3 - Contemporary dance performances • 9:30 pm, Nave 1 - Session Dj Productores •

10 pm, Nave 1 - Theater

11 pm, Nave 4 - Performances by contemporary music vocalists and bands

11 pm, Nave 4

December 8: Real Project •

Contemporary song soloists and groups •

11 pm, Nave 4 - Performances by contemporary music vocalists and bands • 12 am, Nave 1

Rock and Roll AT FAC •

SUNDAYS 9 pm, Nave 3 - Teatro • 11 pm, Nave 1 - Performances by contemporary music vocalists and bands • 11 pm, Nave 4 - Performances by contemporary music vocalists and bands • 11:30 pm, Nave 1 - Session Dj Productores •

12 am, Nave 1 - Jam Session •

11:30, Nave 1 - Session Dj Productores • DEc 2017 32

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TROVA, BOLERO, TRADITIONAL MUSIC

music

The best live music in Havana

TROVA, BOLERO, TRADITIONAL ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA Prado 615 e/ Monte y Dragones, Centro Habana T: 7863 5953

Fridays at 8:30 pm

Obiní Batá folkloric group • Sundays at 6 pm

Grupo Bao Bao • BARBARAM PEPITO’S BAR

CASA DE ÁFRICA

CASONA DE LÍNEA

Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del Zoológico, Nuevo Vedado

Obrapía 157 e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja

Línea 505 e/ D y E, El Vedado

CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE

T: 7881 1808

T: 7861 5798

T: 7832 5373

Calle 23 e/ 10 y 12, El Vedado

Phone for weekly program • Wednesdays at 4 pm

“Filin” • First Thursday of the month at 6 pm

Alejandro Falcón & Cubadentro • Fridays at 10 pm

Adrián Berazaín, Mauricio Figueral & Fernando Bécquer • Alternating weekly this month

Saturdays at 9 pm

Raúl Torres •

December 2 at 4 pm

Grupo Síntesis •

Sundays at 8 pm

Performance by singer-songwriters •

T: 7836 2096

Thursdays at 9 pm

Frank Martínez (trova) •

December 9 at 3 pm

Sundays at 11 pm

Orley Cruz in Retro Music Night •

Obiní Batá • CASA DE LA BOMBILLA VERDE

GALERÍA. HOTEL NACIONAL

CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS

Calle 11 #905 e/ 6 y 8, El Vedado

Calle O esq. a 21, El Vedado

Calles 3ra. y G, El Vedado

T: 5848 1331

T: 7836 3663, 7836 3564

T: 7838 2706-09

Mon-Sun at 8 PM

Performance by singer-songwriters •

Fri & Sat from 1-11 pm

María Elena Pena •

December 5 at 5 pm

Poet Víctor Casaus and trovadora Heidi Igualada pay tribute to Chilean folklorist Violeta Parra on the centenary of her birth • DEc 2017 33

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TROVA, BOLERO, TRADITIONAL MUSIC

DOS GARDENIAS Calles 7ma. y 26, Miramar

EL GATO TUERTO

T: 7204 8188 y 7204 9517

Calle O e/17 y 19, El Vedado

Alternating weekly this month

T: 7838 2696

Phone for weekly program

Tue-Sun at 10 PM

Performance by soloist vocalists •

Mon-Sun at 11 PM

Various live bolero concerts every night •

EL TABLAO Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana

Old school late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky.

Thursdays at 10 pm

Variety show with Verónica Velázquez • Fridays at 10 pm

Ivette Cepeda • Saturdays at 10 pm

Septeto Habanero • Sundays at 9 pm

María Alejandra y Cubanía • EN GUAYABERA Calles 7ma. y 171, Zona 10, Alamar T: 7763 3569

Thu-Sun at 7 PM

Trovador Pepe Ordaz & guests • COLISEO DE LA CIUDAD DEPORTIVA Vía Blanca y Boyeros, El Cerro T: 7881 6400

December 9 at 8:30 pm

Concert Two Legends: From Revé to Los Van Van •

HURÓN AZUL

PALACIO DE LA RUMBA

PARQUE ALMENDARES

UNIÓN DE ESCRITORES Y ARTISTAS DE CUBA (UNEAC)

San Miguel y Hospital, Centro Habana

Avenida 47 y calle 24, Playa

T: 7873 0990

T: 7203 8535 y 7205 1237

Calles 17 y H, El Vedado T: 7832 4551 al 53

Saturdays at 9 PM

Bolero Nights • PABELLÓN CUBA Calles 23 y N, El Vedado T: 7832 3511

Fridays at 4 PM

Trovador Silvio Alejandro •

Tuesdays at 4 PM-8 PM

Septeto Habanero • Fridays at 10 pm

Yoruba Andabo • Saturdays at 4 pm

Boleros & traditional music • Sundays at 8:30 pm

Timbalaye •

SOCIEDAD ROSALÍA DE CASTRO

CAFÉ CANTANTE

Egido #504 e/Monte y Dragones, La Habana Vieja

TEATRO NACIONAL

T: 7861 7761

Fri-Sun at 8:30 PM

Tradicionales de los 50. Traditional Cuban music, featuring Juana Bacallao, and the Gloria Matancera band •

Paseo y 39, El Vedado T: 7878 4275 www.teatronacional.cu/site/coffee

Phone for weekly program Saturdays at 5 pm

Waldo Mendoza •

Saturdays at 6 PM

Singer-songwriter Frank Delgado • MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES (EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO) Trocadero e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140 y 7861 5777

December 2 at 7 pm

Recital by singer-songwriter Karel García • SALÓN 1930 COMPAY SEGUNDO Hotel Nacional Calle O esq. a 21, El Vedado T: 7836 3663, 7836 3564

Tuesdays and Saturdays at 9:30 PM

Traditional Cuban music concert with Buena Vista Social Club members Set in the grand Hotel Nacional. • Alternating weekly DEc 2017 34

Be greeted by imposing colonial fortresses at the bayside entrances to the cities of Cienfuegos, Santiago, and Havana. Onboard, experience how vibrant and cool Cuba is at first hand. You’ll love the dynamic, musical and joyful spirit of the Cubans which infuses the island’s way of life.

The Celestial Crystal offers a quality all-inclusive service plus suites, cabins, elegant rooms, restaurants, open spaces, and a whole variety of services to enjoy during your trip. Set sail with Cuba Travel Network and Save 15% on early bookings. Offer valid until september 30 2017

CubaTravelNetwork.com

US - [email protected] | 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europe - [email protected] | +31 (0)20 794 7962

Asia - [email protected] | 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] | +53 (0)7 214 0090 DEc 2017 35

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JAZZ

music

The best live music in Havana

jazz LA ZORRA Y EL CUERVO Calle 23 e/ N y O, El Vedado T: 7833 2402

Intimate and atmospheric, which you enter through a red telephone box, is Cuba’s most famous. Open 10 PM – 1 AM Mon-Sun at 11 pm

Various live jazz concerts every night •

CAFÉ JAZZ MIRAMAR Cine Teatro Miramar Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar T: (+53) 7203 7676

This is one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba’s best musicians jamming. When the place fills up, it can be a bit noisy; nevertheless, it always gets the thumbs up from us. This is a clean space, so if you want to smoke, you’ll have to do it outside.

Tue-Sun

Various live jazz concerts every night • Tuesdays at 10 pm

Zule Guerra & Blues de La Habana • Sun days at 5 pm

Los Gafas •

JAZZ CAFÉ Galerías de Paseo Ave. 1ra e/ Paseo y A, El Vedado T: 7838-3556, ext. 155

A staple of Havana’s jazz scene, the best jazz players perform here. Somewhat cold, atmospherewise. Phone for weekly program Mon-Sun

Various live jazz concerts every night •

Phone for weekly program

DEc 2017 36

Hotel San Basilio - Stylish Spanish-colonial hotel in historic city center The small sage-and-cream Hotel San Basilio, reached by a pretty double staircase, is the only boutique hotel in the historic center of Santiago de Cuba. With its 1920s ambience, and its eight rooms featuring handsome colonial furniture, guests can retreat from the buzz of the city streets to the quiet of the hotel. Night owls can enjoy the evening entertainment at the Rooftop Bar-Terrace of the nearby Hotel Casa Granda, compliments of the San Basilio Hotel. www.cubatravelnetwork.com

EEUU - [email protected] | 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europa - [email protected] | +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] | 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] | +53 (0)7 214 0090

DEc 2017 37

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CLASSICAL CONCERTS

music

The best live music in Havana

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS BASÍLICA MENOR DEL CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS Oficios e/ Amargura y Churruca, La Habana Vieja T: 7860 4210

December 2 at 6 pm

Concierto with Schola Cantorum Coralina, Camerata Romeu and the Sine Nomine Choir • December 9 at 6 pm

Recital by the Vocal Leo chamber choir • December 16 at 6 pm

Holiday Divertissement, with Camerata Romeu • December 22 at 6 pm

The López-Gavilán Family in Concert • CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL Línea 556 e/ C y D, El Vedado T: 7833 2151 & 7833 2153

December 3 at 5 pm

La Cámara de la Música project, conducted by violinist Alfredo Muñoz • December 10 at 5 pm

En Confluencia project, dedicated to guitar • December 17 at 5 pm

Tardes Líricas project, directed by the soprano Milagros de los Ángeles • December 24 at 5 pm

Música de Nuestra América, a project directed by guitarist Zuleida Suárez • DEc 2017 38

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CLASSICAL CONCERTS

LICEO ARTÍSTICO Y LITERARIO Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja

December 8 at 3 pm

Concert by the guitar orchestra Orquesta Juvenil de Guitarras • MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES (EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO) Trocadero e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140 y 7861 5777

December 8 at 7 pm

Concert by pianist and composer Aldo López-Gavilán Junco and guests • ORATORIO SAN FELIPE NERI Aguiar y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 3243

December 2 at 4 pm

IGLESIA DE PAULA Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, Alameda de Paula, La Habana Vieja T: 7860 4210

December 8 at 7 pm

Concert Aires barrocos, with the performance of the Baroque Orchestra of the National School of Music • December 22 at 7 pm

The Ars longa Early Music Ensemble will present the program Christmas in the Caribbean •

Works by Zoltan Kodaly will be performed by pianists Marita Rodríguez, Oscar Verdeal, Paula Suárez and Mayte Aboy; singers Yansel Alberto Monagas and Milagros de los Ángeles; and violinist Jeny Peña. • December 15 at 7 pm

Concert with the ISA Symphony Orchestra, conducted by Ronald Zollman from Belgium • December 16 at 4 pm

Recital by soprano María Eugenia Barrios • December 21 at 7 pm

Performance of the National Choir of Cuba • CASA VICTOR HUGO O’Reilly 311 e/ Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja T: 7866 7591

December 7 at 5 pm

Concert by the Móviles Trio •

December 23 at 4 pm

Concert with Schola Cantorum Coralina Choir • SALA COVARRUBIAS (TEATRO NACIONAL) Paseo y 39, El Vedado T: 7878 4273 & 7878 4275

Sundays at 11 am

Concerts by the National Symphony Orchestra • DEc 2017 39

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magazine

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

LICEO ARTÍSTICO Y LITERARIO Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja

November 10 at 3 pm

Concert by the guitar orchestra Orquesta Juvenil de Guitarras • MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES (EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO) Trocadero e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140 y 7861 5777

November 2 at 7 pm

Concert by musicians from the Laboratorio Nacional de Música Electroacústica playing works by Karla Suárez and Wilma Alba. • SALA COVARRUBIAS (TEATRO NACIONAL) ORATORIO SAN FELIPE NERI Aguiar y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 3243

November 17 y 18 at 4 pm

Concerts by the ISA Symphony Orchestra as part of the Contemporary Music Festival • November 23 at 7 pm

Concert by the famous German bass René Pape, accompanied by the ISA Symphony Orchestra • November 30 at 7 pm

Recital by pianist Mayte Aboy •

Paseo y 39, El Vedado T: 7878 4273 & 7878 4275

November 5 at 11 am

Concert by guitarist Joaquín Clerch • Sundays at 11 am

Concerts by the National Symphony Orchestra • TEATRO MARTÍ Muralla e/ Zulueta y Prado T: 7866 7153

November 18 y 19 at 6 pm

Production of the zarzuela Cecilia Valdés (music by Gonzalo Roig, written by Agustín Rodríguez and José Sánchez Arcilla, based on Cirilo Villaverde’s novel). Performed by the Teatro Lírico Nacional de Cuba and the National Concert Band. •

DEc 2017 40

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music

magazine

SALSA DANCE SPOTS

SALSA DANCE SPOTS

The best live music in Havana

JARDINES DEL 1830

H. FLORIDA

LA GRUTA

Ayestarán e/ 20 de Mayo y Aranguren, Malecón y 22, El Vedado

BAR

Calle 23 e/ O y P, El Vedado

Obispo esq. a Cuba, La Habana Vieja

T: 7836 9320

T: 7862 4127

Basement club. A good spot to dance salsa on Wednesdays. Includes a dance performance and a salsa completion. AC still broken, so it can get hot.

T: 7838 3091

Outdoor terrace of the old mansion on the waterfront at the end of Malecón, very popular to dance salsa, not the best floor but the sea breeze and the great dancers make it all worth it. Tuesdays, 8pm • Thursdays, 8pm • Sundays, 6pm–1am • Entrance: 5 CUC

Hotel bar. It’s very small but popular with salsa dancing crowd. Best on Tue, Wed, and Sun (when 1830 is open)— less crowded. Mon-Sun • Opens at 9:30 pm

Wednesdays • Opens at 9:30 PM Entrance: 3 CUC

Entrance: 5 CUC (incld. drink)

DEc 2017 41

EEUU - [email protected] 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europa - [email protected] +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] +53 (0)7 214 0090 www.cubatravelnetwork.com

Palacio Azul A pretty bayside blue palace A small boutique hotel, the duck-egg blue Palacio Azul faces the Bay of Cienfuegos, and is 10 minutes by foot to the UNESCO-crowned historic city center. Built in 1920, the domed hotel features 7 rooms, a marble staircase, and beautiful original art nouveau tiled floors. Catch the breeze on the rooftop terrace, and enjoy the neighboring architectural stunners — the Club Cienfuegos and the Palacio del Valle.

DEc 2017 42

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theater

The best theatre shows and plays on now

magazine

Theatre

CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS. SALA MANUEL GALICH

CENTRO HISPANO AMERICANO DE CULTURA

Calle 3ra. y G, El Vedado

Malecón #17 e/ Prado y Genio, Centro Habana

T: 838 2706-09

Jorge December 21 at 4 pm

Solo show by Cuban actor, playwright and director Jorge Ferrera • SALA ADOLFO LLAURADÓ Calle 11 e/ D y E, El Vedado Teléfono: 7832 5373

El banquete infinito Fri & Sat at 8:30 pm; Sundays at 5pm, through December 10 Teatro de la Luna

This play, the last one written by Cuban playwright Alberto Pedro before his death, takes place in an AIDS-free future space and time, in which the rapid population growth has made the scourge of hunger appear. After a coup d’etat, the president promises to change the situation, but soon everything goes back to what it was before• Un juego peligroso Tuesdays & Wednesdays at 7 pm Estudio Teatral Alba / Production: Jorge Alba

In their daily routine, the two old men in this play try to survive alienating themselves through a dangerous recreation: playing at dying •

T: 7866 0775

Las derrotas December 2, 9 & 16 at 5 pm Teatro Pálpito / Production: Roberto Silva

Combining dance and theater, this play based on the text of the same name, written by Alberto Rodríguez Tosca, delves into the topic of emigration • SALA ARGOS TEATRO Ayestarán #307 esq. a 20 de Mayo, El Cerro T: 7878 5551

Sistema Fri & Sat at 8:30 pm; Sundays at 5 pm, through December 17 Argos Teatro / Production: Yeandro Tamayo

This play by Abel González Melo, described by the author himself as “an inconvenient plot,” raises an issue that caught the attention of the Cuban intellectual world just a few years ago: A Cuban painter visiting another country is accused of raping a child. But the dramatist is not interested in the anecdote: he prefers to expose a web of conflicts, human miseries and passions, in search of an elusive “truth.” •

DEc sep 2017 43

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Theatre

SALA TEATRO BUENDÍA

TEATRO TRIANÓN

SALA HUBERT DE BLANCK

Calle 39 e/ Loma y Bellavista, Nuevo Vedado

Línea e/ Paseo y A, El Vedado

Calzada 657 e/ A y B, El Vedado

T: 7881 6689

Teléfono: 7830 9648

T: 7830 1011 y 7836 8452

Sarah Bernhardt December 2 at 7 pm; Dec 3 at 5 pm Estudio Teatral La Chinche, Teatro estudio Buendía / Production: Liset Silveiro

Harry Potter se acabó la magia Fri & Sat at 8:30 pm; Sundays at 5 pm Teatro El Público / Production: Carlos Díaz

El enano en la botella Fri & Sat at 8:30 pm; Sundays at 5 pm Compañía Teatral Hubert de Blanck / Production: Marcela García

Courtesan, actress and businesswoman, of strong character and stormy love affairs, “Divine Sarah” was possibly the most famous actress of her time and an icon of Art Nouveau •

The fantastic world of Harry Potter, brought to a music school in Cuba as a social satire •

The Hubert de Blanck Company and actress Marcela García make, for the first time, their own adaptation of this play by Cuban dramatist Abilio Estévez, dealing with the always controversial issue of freedom •

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dance

DANCE The best dance performances of the month

GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana T: 7861 3077 & 7861 5873

Fuerza y compás December 1-3 at 8:30 pm

One of the best-liked pieces by the Lizt Alfonso Dance Cuba Company • Concert program December 22 & 23 at 8:30 pm; Dec 24 at 5 pm

Performances by the Ballet Nacional de Cuba•

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FÁBRICA DE ARTE CUBANO

TEATRO MARTÍ

SALA AVELLANEDA (TEATRO NACIONAL)

Calles 26 y 11, El Vedado

Muralla e/ Zulueta y Prado

Paseo y 39, El Vedado

T: 7838-2260

T: 7866 7153

T: 7878 4273 y 7878 4275

Cubita 2017 December 8 at 8pm

The Nutcracker December 15-16 at 8:30 pm; Dec 17 at 5 pm

Piece choreographed by Daniele Ninnarello and Simona Rinaldo, performed by the Persona company, directed by Sandra Ramy •

The Prodanza Company, directed by Laura Alonso, presents parts of this emblematic ballet of the romantic period, with choreography by Marius Petipa and music by Tchaikovsky. The presentation of The Nutcracker has become a favorite holiday tradition •

dance

December 15-16 at 8:30 pm; Dec 17 at 5pm

Show with the performances of the Cuban Retazos dance company and the Irene K contemporary dance company from Belgium •

DEc sep 2017 46

Going to Cuba but short on time? These are the best two-day-and–one–night excursions, for you to discover the Island´s history, culture and nature. • Private Tour of Trinidad, Cienfuegos and Santa Clara, from Havana • Nature in the Valle de Viñales, from Havana • Topes de Collantes Overnight (Trinidad, Santa Clara and Cienfuegos), from Havana and Varadero Make your online reservation CubaTravelNetwork.com

For further information, please contact us

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ART EXHIBITIONS

Art EXHIBITIONs The best exhibitions at museums and galleries CENTRO DE DESARROLLO DE LAS ARTES VISUALES San Ignacio y Teniente Rey, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 5279, 7862 9295 y 7862 3533

Through January 20

VII Salón de Arte Contemporáneo Cubano will present 40 projects and 60 actions, mostly by young artists, in a collaboration between visual arts and theater, literature, science and technology. Happenings and performances have been announced, mainly on Tuesdays and Thursdays • GALERÍA LA ACACIA Calle 18 #512 e/ 5ta. y 7ma., Miramar T: 7214 1444 Through December 22

Peticiones, by artist Martha María Pérez. According to the promotional note, this exhibition is an approach to Cuban religious systems of African origin and to Spiritism, but also, and especially, an approach that envisages the other as a fundamental element of the passage that she composes or remembers. • DEc 2017 48

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ART EXHIBITIONS

FACTORÍA HABANA O’Reilly 308 e/ entre Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja T: 7864 9518 y 7861 0791

November 3-February 28, 2018

La ceiba me dijo tú a will articulate the discourses and poetics of artists Carlos Martiel, Elio Rodríguez and Belkys Ayón, three artists who have assiduously approached racial and Negritude issues with remarkable results, in three individual shows: Fragmentos de memoria, by Carlos Martiel; Black Gardens, by Elio Rodríguez, and Enigma espiritual, by Belkis Ayón. •

BIBLIOTECA PÚBLICA RUBÉN MARTÍNEZ VILLENA

CASA JUAN GUALBERTO GÓMEZ

Obispo 59 e/ Baratillo y Oficios, La Habana Vieja

Empedrado e/ Aguiar y Cuba, La Habana Vieja

T: 7862 9035 & 7862 9036

T: 7866 4114

Throughout December

En el malecón, show by painter, sculptor and screen printer Nelson Villalobo• CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL

December

La abstracción en blanco y negro exhibits 72 pieces painted by artist Yonny Ibáñez Gómez from 1964 to 1968 •

Línea 556 esq. a D, El Vedado

CENTRO DE ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO WIFREDO LAM

T: 7833 2151 & 7833 2153

Empedrado y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja

Through December 23

Nueve días, by visual artist Maykel Muiño, pays tribute to Fidel Castro a year after his death • CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS 3ra. y G, El Vedado T: 7838 2706-09

Opens December 6

Ana Mercedes Hoyos. Gráfica presents prints by the late Colombian artist, inspired by traditions and identity of her country •

T: 7861 2096

Through December 24

Raúl Martínez: Allegreto cantabile takes the viewer on a tour through the different creative stages of this renowned designer, photographer and painter, National Visual Arts Prizewinner 1994, pioneer of pop art in Cuba • PALACIO DE LOMBILLO Empedrado 1, Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja

Throughout December

Muestra de grabados. Prints by French painter and lithographer Eduardo Laplante Borcou, belonging to the Colonial Art Museum Collection • DEc 2017 49

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ART EXHIBITIONS

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano Trocadero e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140, 7861 5777

Through December 11

La mirada inédita. El dibujo y la gráfica de los años veinte y treinta. Drawing and graphic art of the 1920s and 30s, with pieces by Eduardo Abela, José Manuel Acosta, Rafael Blanco, Carlos Enríquez, Arístides Fernández, Victor Manuel Garcia, Antonio Gattorno, Amelia Peláez, Marcelo Pogolotti, Jorge Rigol, Conrado Massaguer and Jaime Valls, among others. These works show how in many cases these art forms were ahead of painting and sculpture in the expression of the avant-garde in 20th-century Cuban visual arts • Through December 14

La gran espiral, group show on the 50th anniversary of the Salón de Mayo exhibition in Havana • Through December 14

Palimpsesto, works by José Manuel Fors, National Visual Arts Prize-winner 2016 • Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. EDIFICIO DE ARTE UNIVERSAL San Rafael e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140, 7861 5777

Through December

Boris Lurie in Havana. A wide-ranging exhibition of the work of the Russianborn Jewish artist [Leningrad 1924-New York 2008], survivor of the Holocaust and founder of the NO!art movement, which calls for art leading to social action • Through January 22, 2018

Afrodita Gnidia. El desnudo femenino en la escultura griega de la antigüedad. The show, dedicated to the female nude in primitive Greek sculpture, exhibits 26 three-dimensional pieces (almost all of them belonging to the Museum’s valuable Conde de Lagunillas Collection), six blowups of works not existing in the Museum and a map, all showing the journey of the myth of Aphrodite • Through December 14

Aquí todo está abierto. Nada es cercano, nada es lejano, exhibition by the well-known Italian artist Serse • Museo de arte Universal photo:Yadira Montero

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ART EXHIBITIONS

CENTRO HISPANO AMERICANO DE CULTURA Malecón 17 e/ Prado y Genio, Centro Habana T: 7866 0755

Opens December 15

Bienal de cerámica La Vasija.The La Vasija Ceramic Biennial will exhibit individual and group vessels, installations, individual tiles and tile panels. The Seré breve exhibition by ceramist Gilberto Gutiérrez Amat will open during the Biennial •

GALERÍA ARTIS 718

GALERÍA HABANA

Calles 7ma. y 18, Miramar

Línea 460 e/ E y F, El Vedado

Through December 10

Caja Negra, an exhibition of painting and photographs by Aluan Argüelles, deals with the theme of migration, and situations and circumstances associated with this phenomenon that has marked different Cuban cultural manifestations in recent decades • GALERÍA CONTINUA

T: 7832 7101

Throughout December

Deriva, solo show by Ariamna Contino. According to the promotional note, the exhibition questions “the theories and stories that we have inherited as absolute. More than a point of departure or arrival, more than hesitation or certainty, the exhibition is a transformation of our sensitivity to the real, the fictional, or the imaginary.” •

Rayo 108 e/ Zanja y Dragones, Barrio Chino, Centro Habana

Through March 11, 2018

Chen Zhen. First show in Cuba of this Chinese artist (1955-2000), who is considered one of the top exponents of contemporary Chinese art •

PALACIO DEL MARQUÉS DE ARCOS Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja

Throughout December

Muestra transitoria, exhibition of the latest paintings from the collection of the Office of the City Historian acquired in 2016 and 2017, including works by Cuban and international artists like Victor Manuel García, Esteban Chartrand, Jean Baptiste Vermay and Valetín Sanz Carta, among others •

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CASTLE IN THE CLOUDS, A MEDIEVAL MANSION IN CUBA A beautiful hotel with outstanding views of Soroa’s forests. A peaceful, romantic and luxury retreat — ideal for escaping stressful city life. Enjoy the heights of El Fuerte Hill, walk to the largest orchid garden in Cuba, and embrace Cuba’s lush nature. Exclusive access through Cuba Travel Network

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DEc 2017 52

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PHOTOGRAPHY Fototeca de Cuba photo:Lorena / Mene

PHOTOGRAPHY The best photography exhibitions CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL

CINE YARA

FÁBRICA DE ARTE CUBANO. NAVE 3

Línea 556 esq. a D, El Vedado

Calles L y 23, El Vedado

Calles 26 y 11, El Vedado

T: 7833 2151 & 7833 2153

T: 7832 9430

T: 7838-2260

Through December 9

Through December 18

Through December 14

Miradas al Perú: Selvas, sierras y costas, by Peruvian photographer Oscar Pacussich •

Orígenes, ilación y creatividad, by Humberto Mayol and Laura Alejo, inspired by belly dancing •

El retrato. Luz a tu propia química (9na. edición). Show on photographic portraits •

CASA VÍCTOR HUGO

CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS

GALERÍA CASA 8

O’Reilly 311 e/ Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja

Oficios e/ Amargura y Churruca, La Habana Vieja

Calle 8, #306 e/ 13 y 15, El Vedado

T: 7866 7591

T: 7860 4210

Opens December 8

Throughout December

Through December 15

De este lado de la pared, by Yoanny Aldaya Ramírez •

Miradas, by French photographer Jean Querbes •

Barrio Pogolotti, by Italian artist Alfredo Cannatello

GALERÍA LA ACACIA

GALERÍA SERVANDO

Calle 18 #512 e/ 5ta. y 7ma., Miramar

Calles 23 y 10, El Vedado

MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES (EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO)

T: 7214 1444

T: 7830 6150

Trocadero e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja

Through December 22

Peticiones, by artist Martha María Pérez, is an approach to Cuban religious systems of African origin and to Spiritism •

Throughout December

Yo no hablo con fotógrafos, by photographer Leandro Feal •

T: 7862 0140 & 7861 5777

December 29-February 22

Juan Carlos Alom. Exhibition by this Cuban photographer and an experimental filmmaker • DEc sep 2017 53

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LATEST FILM NEWS

LATEST FILM NEWS The answer to this question: Why Are my Friends Crying, could be given in a five-minute short film or through a saga longer than the Harry Potter one. Cuban filmmaker Magda González Grau has opted for an intermediate solution: a feature film with that title and which—finally!—will be screened out of competition, during the International Festival New Latin American Cinema this month. Renowned actresses Luisa María Jiménez, Amarilis Núñez, Edith Massola and Yazmín Gómez will play four friends who meet again after twenty years and review their lives, joys and sorrows. Of an intimate nature, the movie was shot entirely indoors and was scripted by young Hannah Imbert. This hymn to friendship over differences promises to be a tour de force for the protagonists. The director has joked that at 63 years old, she will be making her feature film debut. However, Magda González Grau’s remarkable achievements for Cuban television, her mastery of the medium, the excellent cast, the music of the experienced and always effective Juan Antonio Leyva and Magda Rosa Galbán, and the art direction of Tomás Piard (who has a long career as film director) predict that the film will bring much more satisfaction than tears •

DEc 2017 54

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LATEST FILM NEWS

FESTIVAL INTERNACIONAL DEL NUEVO CINE LATINOAMERICANO Since December 3, 1979, Havana has been the venue of the International Festival of New Latin American Cinema, which has served as a launch pad for Latin American cinematography and become one of the leading film festivals in the region. Awards are given in categories that include animation, documentary, fiction, first work, unpublished script and poster, as well as direction, screenplay, actor, actress, art direction, photography, music, film editing and sound. Numerous professional workshops and seminars also take place during the festival, plus much awaited screenings of international contemporary cinema. Although the International Festival of New Latin American Cinema, generally abbreviated as “the Havana Film Festival,” should be called the Vedado Festival since the few cinemas that are still working in the capital are concentrated in that area, Havana residents are not afraid of the cold fronts that enter in December, or of the packed buses in which they will have to be transported from their respective municipalities to the Vedado oasis. The 39th Festival has announced 19 feature films, 18 short and mediumlength films, 18 new works, 23 documentaries, 16 animated films, 24 posters and 20 unpublished scripts in competition.

In the Fiction Feature Films section, possibly the most anticipated, Argentina will present five films; Brazil, also five; México, three; Chule, two. Of whoch “Los perros” seems promising. Cuba, whose current film production fails to reach the levels of the 1980s, will present “Los buenos demonios” by Gerardo Chijona, with this director’s usual look into problematic areas of Cuba’s national reality; and “Sergio & Serguei” by Ernesto Daranas, who deals with the friendship between a young Cuban radio ham who is a professor of Marxism and a Soviet cosmonaut confined in a damaged spaceship.

We can expect good results from Daranas, who has directed two of the best Cuban films in this century: “Los dioses rotos” and “Conducta.” Closing the list are Colombia and the Dominican Republic, with one film each. In this and other competing categories, attention is drawn to very current problems, such as drug trafficking and gender conflicts, the relatively high presence of women as directors and protagonists, and also the echoes of military dictatorships in the southern cone.

Out of competition there are options for all tastes and interests in the Latin American panorama: migration, sports, musicals, environmental issues, sexual and cultural diversity, avant-garde and experimental films, fantastic and horror films, etc, plus Contemporary International Panorama, Spanish and German film screenings, a tribute to American director James Ivory, restored classics, and so much more. A true temptation to spend ten days going from cinema to cinema, barely leaving the few square kilometers of El Vedado District.

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Driving around the island is a great way to discover places off the tourist trail helping you make the most of your trip to Cuba. It’s always a good idea to make reservations in advance, especially during the months September to December. Right now we have vehicle availability for that date. By doing so you’ll save time and avoid wasting days of your vacation looking for a car available for rent. This is the best time to review our offers and book the car that best suits your itinerary. Guaranteed from now for your Cuba vacation!

CubaTravelNetwork.com

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EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA

EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA The best events happening around Cuba

HAVANA December 5-17

PABEXPO

The International Craft Fair offers multiple spaces for promoting and selling the works of Cuban artisans-artists and from other countries, mainly from Latin America. The fair includes exhibitions and sales, fashion shows, workshops and concerts during the afternoons and evenings •

Calle 17 e/ 174 y 184, Siboney, Playa T: 7271 0758, 7271 6614 & 7271 3670 DEc 2017 57

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EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA

EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA The best events happening around Cuba

XXII FIESTA LA GUANTANAMERA GUANTÁNAMO

December 1-4

Held to commemorate the anniversary of the founding of the city of Guantanamo back in December of 1870, the Guantanamera Fiesta, which is considered the most comprehensive festivity in the province, showcases the cultural mosaic of this Cuban eastern region, one of the few in Cuba that preserves indigenous traditions and a strong imprint of the French presence on the Island •

FESTIVAL INTERNACIONAL DE COROS December 6-10

SANTIAGO DE CUBA

It was in the Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba where the first known choral works in Cuba were composed by Havana-born Esteban Salas (1725-1803), who served for years as chapel master. Honoring this tradition, in 1961 Electo Silva, who has been for decades director of Orfeón Santiago, organized the First Choir Festival. Throughout the years, choral groups from different countries have also participated in the festival together with their Cuban counterparts, winners at prestigious international competitions. An intensive program of concerts in theatres, schools, factories, hospitals and public squares characterizes these days in which audiences can enjoy the best of the repertoires of choral music. The organizers of the event have announced the performances of important Cuban choirs, such as the National Choir, Schola Cantorum Coralina, Exaudi, Camerata Vocal Música Áurea, the Vocal Luna female choir, Orfeón Santiago, Madrigalista Choir, and the Esteban Salas Conservatory chamber choir, together with three choral societies from Argentina and one from Australia • DEc 2017 58

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EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA

EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA The best events happening around Cuba PARRANDAS DE REMEDIOS December 24

REMEDIOS, VILLA CLARA

COLOQUIO INTERNACIONAL POR EL CENTENARIO DE DÁMASO PÉREZ PRADO December 8-10 CASA DE LA MEMORIA ESCÉNICA, MATANZAS

In addition to lectures, round tables and book presentations to commemorate the centenary of the birth of the creator of Mambo, the International Colloquium on the Centenary of Dámaso Pérez Prado includes live performances by musical groups, a cycle of films with music by Pérez Prado, including some in which he appears, and the production of the play Yo soy el Rey, written by Ulises Rodríguez Febles and performed by Conjuro Teatro, including the live performance of the Atenas Brass Ensemble •

Although the rumor had spread that given the devastation caused by Hurricane Irma the Parrandas would be put on hold this year, it has now been confirmed that, perhaps with more modest resources, the festivity initiated in the 1820s will be celebrated on their usual date. Legend has it that a young priest officiating in Remedios (the eighth town founded by the Spaniards in Cuba) decided to have a group of children make a noise with whatever they had to hand in an effort to awaken lazy parishioners to attend mass in the chilly mornings of 24th December. From then on, neighbors would go out into the streets on the nights prior to Christmas for music and merrymaking. From 1871, a competition or “parranda” between two neighborhoods, El Carmen and San Salvador, took place, each with its own hymn, colors, kites and lanterns. In 1875, complicated floats lit by flares and fireworks were paraded by each side at the town’s Plaza de Armas (town square). To this day, the two neighborhoods continue with a rivalry characterized by the beauty and originality of these floats, as well as by the amazing pyrotechnics that from 9 pm on 24th December to dawn on 25th December, illuminate the city sky. Both sides keep their floats secret from each other during the course of the year with even members of the same family on either side of the fence sworn to secrecy against each other. Although these festivities have spread to other nearby localities of Guayos and Camajuaní, the Parrandas de Remedios are the oldest and most well known on the island. •

DEc 2017 59

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EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA

EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA The best events happening around Cuba

CHARANGAS DE BEJUCAL December 24-26 & January 1, 2018

BEJUCAL, MAYABEQUE

Like many other festivals of this type in Cuba, the charangas (popular son-influenced Cuban music that began in the 1940s emphasizing flute, violin and piano orchestra) are related to Christmas celebrations, when white Catholics and black slaves would take to the streets with their musical instruments to pay tribute to their deities. Eventually, they divided into two groups: La Musicanga, which gathered the criollos (freed blacks and slaves); and Los Malayos (representing the Spaniards). Thanks to the fusion of cultures that characterizes Cuban identity, racial and class differences were lost with time, and belonging to one or another side was simply determined by each person’s preference. Rivalry between both sides today, now named La Ceiba de Plata and La Espina de Oro, consists in the ability to construct the most colorful and striking floats. The traditional music of the orchestra Los Tambores de Bejucal accompanies this festivity now attended not only by the inhabitants of the town, 20 km south of Havana, but by hundreds of visitors who enjoy the fantasy and creativity of designers, engineers, painters, musicians, choreographers, and dancers whose talent guarantees the vitality of one of the oldest popular celebrations in Cuba • FESTIVAL DE MÚSICA POPULAR CUBANA BENNY MORÉ December 14-17

SANTA ISABEL DE LAS LAJAS & CIENFUEGOS

Bands and soloists from Cuba and other countries get together during the Benny Moré Popular Cuban Music Festival to sing and dance in homage to an icon of Cuban music, admired not only for his talent as singer, composer and bandleader, but also for his warmth, unpretentiousness and a touch of eccentricity •

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UPCOMING EVENTS IN 2017

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UPCOMING EVENTS IN 2017

DANZA CONTEMPORÁNEA DE CUBA HEADQUARTERS Teatro Nacional Paseo y 39, El Vedado January 2-13

TALLER PRÁCTICO INTERNACIONAL DE LA DANZA MODERNA CUBANA CUBADANZA The two-week long International Workshop on Cuban Modern Dance, Cubadanza, aimed at professional dancers and students, teaches different Cuban popular rhythms and dances from which Cuban modern dance draws on and shows how the pelvic region and the undulation of the torso, among other characteristics, are the fundamental basis of the Cuban technique of modern dance. According to the availability of the company for the period in which the workshop will take place, it will possible to attend rehearsals

HAVANA CONJUNTO FOLKLÓRICO NACIONAL DE CUBA HEADQUARTERS Calle 4 #103 e/ Calzada y 5ta., El Vedado

FOLKCUBA. LABORATORIOS INTERNACIONALES DE FOLKLORE Sponsored by the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba, the two-week long FolkCuba, International Folklore Laboratories is held with experts in Cuban folklore dances teaching Cuban dances and music of African and Spanish origin, as well as the principal Cuban percussion instruments. The “secrets” of mambo, cha-cha-cha, rumba, mozambique, pilón, conga, and dances and drum beating related to African religious rites are revealed by outstanding figures of the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba •

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UPCOMING EVENTS IN 2017

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UPCOMING EVENTS IN 2017

SANTA CLARA First two weeks of January

FESTIVAL DE LA TROVA LONGINA It was in the Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba where the first known choral works in Cuba were composed by the Havanaborn Esteban Salas (1725-1803), who served for years as the cathedral’s chapel master. Honoring this tradition, in 1961, the late Electo Silva, who was for decades director of Orfeón Santiago, organized the First Choir Festival. Throughout the years, choral groups from different countries have also participated in the festival together with their Cuban counterparts, winners at prestigious international competitions. An intensive program of concerts in theatres, schools, factories, hospitals and public squares characterizes these days in which audiences can enjoy the best of the repertoires of choral music • HAVANA January 17-21, 2018

XXXIII FESTIVAL INTERNACIONAL JAZZ PLAZA 2018 One of Havana’s most famous music events, the Jazz Festival is a display of the link between Cuban rhythm and jazz, which goes back to the late 19th century when newly freed slaves immigrated to New Orleans. Started in 1979 pretty much as a local event at the Casa de la Cultura de Plaza, the festival has grown in size and scope with venues that include several large theatres and nightclubs. International stars such as Dizzy Gillespie, Charlie Haden, Steve Coleman, Michel Legrand, Ivan Lins and Ronnie Scott are just a few names in the list of past participants, who, together with Cubans Chucho Valdés, Gonzalo Rubalcaba, Bobby Carcassés and Ernán López-Nussa, to mention just a few, attract fans from all over the world. The 2018 edition will be opened by award-winning Cuban pianist and composer Chucho Valdés • DEc 2017 62

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FOR KIDS

magazine

FOR KIDS

TEATRO EL ARCA Avenida del Puerto y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja T: 7861 0568

El negrito y los fantasmas December 1-10 at 3 pm

Play by Argentinean playwright Javier Villafañe, adapted by Mario González, with the performance of Yanelys Vignier •

Havana’s best things to do with the kids

MUSEO DE ARTE COLONIAL Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 6440

Theater for kids Saturdays and Sundays, 11am

Theater show conducted by Estudio Teatral Aldaba • CENTRO CULTURAL BERTOLT BRECHT

SALA ADOLFO LLAURADÓ

Calle 13 esquina a I, El Vedado

T: 7832 5373

Teléfono: 832 9359

Los vengadores Saturdays & Sundays at 11 am

Play by the Marabal Company • TEATRO NACIONAL DE GUIÑOL Misu de herencia Fridays at 2:30 pm; Sundays at 5 pm

Puppet show •

Calle 11 e/ D y E, El Vedado

Sunday morning shows for the kids Saturdays and Sundays, 11 am •

MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES (EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO) Trocadero e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140 y 7861 5777

BB Compañía December 3 at 11 am • Estrellitas Choir December 17 at 11 am •

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RESTAURANTS 25

1

CORTE DEL PRÍNCIPE ITALIAN

2

25 BEST PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA

Best places to eat in Havana

LA GUARIDA CONTEMPORARY FUSION

Sergio’s place. Simple décor but cosy atmosphere, spectacular homemade food.

Cuba’s best known restaurant. Something of a factory but still super charming atmosphere and a great overall experience.

Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar

Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana

(+53) 5255 9091

(+53) 7866 9047

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3

EL DEL FRENTE TAPAS BAR

magazine

25 BEST PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA

4

EL COCINERO INTERNATIONAL

Cuban hipster place with innovative cocktails and tapas on the rooftop.

Industrial chic rooftop lounge with a buzzing atmosphere. Nouvelle cuisine downstairs – we prefer the roof.

O’Reilly #303 e/ Habana y Aguiar, Habana Vieja

Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, El Vedado

(+53) 7863 0206

(+53) 7832 2355

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5

25 BEST PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA

DOÑA EUTIMIA TRADITIONAL CUBAN

Absolutely charming. Excellent traditional Cuban cuisine. Can get very busy. Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja (+53) 7861 1332, (+53) 5281 5883

6

RÍO MAR INTERNATIONAL

Contemporary décor. Great sea view. Good food if a little pricey. Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla, Miramar (+53) 7209 4838

7

SANTY SEAFOOD

Worth the trek to Jaimanitas. An authentic fisherman’s shack (albeit with a large recent expansion), servicing quality seafood. Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas (+53) 5286 7039

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25 BEST PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA

EL CAFÉ CAFÉ

Charming little European style café with sourdough sandwiches and breakfast served all day. Amargura #358 e/ Villegas y Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7861 3817

9

OTRA MANERA INTERNATIONAL

Beautiful modern décor. Interesting menu and good service. Calle #35 e/ 20 y 41, Playa. (+53) 7203 8315

10

BVCC INDIAN

Brilliant combination of authentic and delicious Indian food and live Cuban jazz music every night. Cigar friendly. Tejadillo #24 esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7862 7379

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VISTAMAR INTERNATIONAL

CAFÉ LAURENT INTERNATIONAL

SAN CRISTÓBAL TRADITIONAL CUBAN

25 PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA

14

LAMPARILLA TAPAS BAR

Beautiful sea view from terrace overlooking pool. Great place for drinks by the pool at sunset.

Deservedly popular. Consistently great food. Kitsch décor in the individual rooms.

Friendly spot with creative drinks and tapas in the middle of old Havana.

Ave. 1ra #2206 e/ 22 y 24, Miramar

San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana

Lamparilla #361 e/ Aguacate y Villegas, Habana Vieja

(+53) 7860 1705

(+53) 5289 5324

(+53) 7203 8328

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NAZDAROVIE SOVIET

16

ECLÉCTICO FUSION, ITALIAN

17

NERO DI SEPPIA ITALIAN

Beautiful penthouse restaurant with a lovely terrace and decent food.

Well-designed Soviet décor, excellent food and service from all corners of the ex-Soviet Union.

Beautiful mansion in the heart of El Vedado serving excellent food.

Walter’s place. Great pizza and salads. Quick and reliably good.

Calle M #257 e/ 19 y 21, El Vedado

Malecón #25 3er piso e/ Prado y Cárcel, Centro Habana

Paseo #206, El Vedado

Calle 6 #122 e/ 1ra y 3ra Miramar, Playa

(+53) 7831 3423, (+53) 5360 0384

(+53) 5478 7871

(+53) 7831 2090

18

CAFÉ BOHEMIA CAFÉ

Bohemian feel. Great sandwiches, salads & juices. San Ignacio #364, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 5403 1 8, (+53) 7860 3722

22

BELLA CIAO HOMELY ITALIAN

Great service and good prices. A real home from home. Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7206 1406

(+53) 7860 2947

19

EL ATELIER EXPERIMENTAL FUSION

Interesting décor, interesting menu inside colonial Vedado mansion, preferred by large groups. Calle 5ta e/ Paseo y 2, El Vedado (+53) 7836 2025

23

CHA CHA CHA INTERNATIONAL

Vibrant restaurant across the street from the Granma Memorial. Nice décor. Fusion Cuban cuisine. AC for hot days is a plus. Monserrate #159 e/ Tejadillo y Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7867 2450

20

CASA NOSTRA ITALIAN

Family restaurant in a residential house offers great pizza. Also worth trying are the newly added hamburgers to the menu. Calle 9na #13001 esq. a 130, Playa (+53) 7208 4619

24

LA HABANERA INTERNATIONAL AND VEGETARIAN

Excellent food and veggie-friendly menu. Lovely, majestic house. Calle 16 #506 e/ 7ma y 5ta, Miramar, Playa (+53) 7202 9941

21

TIEN TAN MIRAMAR CHINESE

The most popular place among Chinese community. This is a little upscale to its sister restaurant in Barrio Chino. Calle 44 #4406 e/ 3ra & 5ta, Miramar (+53) 7206 2543

25

5 SENTIDOS INTERNATIONAL

Opened only 3 months ago, this striking corner restaurant with fresh cuisine is worth a try. San Juan de Dios #67 e/ Compostela y Habana, Habana Vieja (+53) 7864 8699

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The Collection by Pullman Unique & Exclusive, only in Cayo Coco

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Havana’s best bars and clubs

TRENDING BARS SIÁ KARÁ CAFÉ Charming bohemian bar where Paris meets Havana. Barcelona esq. a Industria, Centro Habana (+53) 7867 4084 www.siakaracafe.com

KING’S BAR Popular night spot for locals. Thursdays and Fridays also live music.

Laid-back contemporary bar with a real buzz in the back beer garden. Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7836 3031

Havana’s best bars and clubs

BEST BARS WITH LIVE MUSIC

CORNER CAFÉ

EFE BAR

Great live music every day, very popular among locals. Good tapas.

Currently hot bar with live music and DJs

Calle 23 #667 e/D y E, El Vedado

Calle B y 1ra, El Vedado

(+53) 584 3229

(+53) 7833 0556

(+53) 7837 1220

www.kingbarhavana.com

ESPACIOS

magazine

O’REILLY 304

PAZILLO

Calle 23 y F, El Vedado

FAC FÁBRICA DE ARTE CUBANO

This literally is an art factory– multiple art galleries and endless performance venues. There are several bars and a newly opened restaurant. Check website for FAC’s opening and closing schedules

Trendy little tapas bar with innovative cocktails. Don’t miss the fresh fruit daiquiris.

Recently opened bar and restaurant with fresh design offers live music every Thursday to Saturday starting at 10 pm.

O’Reilly #304 e/ Habana y Aguiar, Habana Vieja

Calle 5ta #604 e/ 4 y 6, El Vedado

Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, El Vedado

(+53) 7835 1106

(+53) 5329 6325

(+53) 7863 0206, (+53) 5264 4725

www.fac.cu

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BEST CLUBS SARAO’S BAR

FANTAXY BAR

Modern white bar in Vedado with live concerts.

Hot bar/lounge frequented mostly by fashionable Cubans.

Calle 17 esq. a E, El Vedado

Calle 7ma A e/ 70 y 66, Miramar

(+53) 7832 0433

BOLABANA Popular bar with music where everyone ends up dancing. Calle 39 e/ 48 y 50, Playa

magazine

Havana’s best bars and clubs

SANGRI-LA Basement bar/club that gets packed by locals especially on weekends. Great for hanging out with the cool kids of the Havana Farándula in the most popular bar/club. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5359 6517

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Havana’s best bars and clubs

TRADITIONAL

BARS

SLOPPY JOE’S BAR

EL FLORIDITA

Beautifully renovated. Full of history. Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’.

Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Touristy but always full of life, good place to cool off. Great cocktails.

Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana Vieja

Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja

(+53) 7866 7157

(+53) 7867 1299

CERVECERÍA Antiguo Almacén de la Madera y del Tabaco

Microbrewery in old warehouse overlooking the restored docks. Simply brilliant. Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja

MONSERRATE BAR Classic Cuban bar with high ceilings where you can always chat with random people popping in and out. Monserrate esq. a Obrapía, La Habana Vieja

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VISTAMAR POOL Tranquility by the sea at this 1950s villa with a beautiful pool. Ave. 1ra #2206 e/ 22 y 24, Miramar (+53) 7203 8328

magazine

Havana’s best bars and clubs

BELLA HABANA POOL BAR The best place for a sunset drink overlooking Old Havana is this brand new and chic 5* hotel roof. Steeply priced. Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana San Rafael e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7869 9100

LA GUARIDA ROOFTOP BAR Great cocktail bar overlooking Centro Habana rooftops and the sea. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana

H. NACIONAL TERRACE The garden terrace overlooking the Malecón in this historic hotel is the best place for the late afternoon mojito. Calle 21 y O, El Vedado (+53) 7836 3564

(+53) 7866 9047

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magazine Havana’s BEST HOTELS

SIMPLY THE BEST IBEROSTAR PARQUE CENTRAL Luxury hotel overlooking Parque Central Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7860 6627

GRAN HOTEL MANZANA KEMPINSKI LA HABANA True five-star lux hotel in the heart of Old Havana, opened in June 2017. San Rafael e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, Habana Vieja

SANTA ISABEL Luxurious historic mansion facing Plaza de Armas. Baratillo #9 e/ Obispo y Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7860 8201

SARATOGA Stunning view from roof-top pool. Beautiful décor. Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a Dragones, Habana Vieja (+53) 7868 1000

(+53) 7869 9100

TERRAL Wonderful ocean front location, modern with only 14 rooms. Opened in 2012. Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro Habana (+53) 7862 8061, (+53) 7860 2100

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Family or business travelers, no distinctions in Melia city hotels

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magazine Havana’s BEST HOTELS

BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN OLD HAVANA FLORIDA Beautifully restored colonial house. Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7862 4127

PALACIO MARQUÉS DE SAN FELIPE Y SANTIAGO DE BEJUCAL

HOSTAL VALENCIA Immensely charming, great value.

Cuban baroque meets modern minimalism

Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía, Habana Vieja

Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura, Habana Vieja

(+53) 7867 1037

CONDE DE VILLANUEVA Delightfully small and intimate. For cigar lovers. Mercaderes #202 esq. a Lamparilla, Habana Vieja (+53) 7862 9293

(+53) 7864 9191

BUSINESS HOTELS MELIÁ COHÍBA H10 HABANA PANORAMA

MEMORIES MIRAMAR

Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi. Modern.

Good value, large spacious modern rooms.

Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar

Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar

(+53) 7204 0100

(+53) 7204 3583

MELIÁ HABANA Attractive design & extensive facilities. Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar (+53) 5204-8500

Oasis of polished marble and Professional calm. Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, El Vedado (+53) 7833 3636

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON The only hotel managed by a US brand sits opposite Havana’s Trade Center in its Miramar district. Avenida 5ta A e/ 76 y 80, Miramar (+53) 7214 1470

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magazine Havana’s BEST HOTELS

FOR A SENSE OF HISTORY AMBOS MUNDOS

MERCURE SEVILLA

HOTEL NACIONAL

HABANA RIVIERA BY IBEROSTAR

A must for Hemingway aficionados.

Stunning views from the roof restaurant.

Calle Obispo #153 esq. a Mercaderes,

Trocadero #55 e/ Prado y Zulueta,

Habana Vieja

Habana Vieja

(+53) 7860 9529

(+53) 7860 8560

Eclectic art-deco architecture. Gorgeous gardens overlooking the Malecón. Calle O esq. a 21, El Vedado (+53) 7835 3896

After a major renovation and new management under Iberostar this hotel was reopened in September 2017. Spectacular views over wavelashed Malecón. Paseo y Malecón, El Vedado (+53) 7836 4051

BUDGET HOTELS BOSQUE

DEAUVILLE

SAINT JOHN’S

VEDADO

COMODORO

On the banks of the Río Almendares.

Lack of pretension, great location.

Lively disco, tiny quirky pool. Popular.

Good budget option with a bit of a buzz.

On the seafront in the residential area of Miramar.

Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B, Reparto Kohly, Playa

Galiano e/ San Lázaro y Malecón, Centro Habana

Calle O e/ 23 y 25, El Vedado

Calle O e/ 23 y 25, El Vedado

Ave. 3ra esq. a 84, Miramar

(+53) 7204 9232

Habana

(+53) 7833 3740

(+53) 7836 4072

(+53) 7204 5551

(+53) 7866 8812

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magazine Havana’s BEST private places to stay

H ava n a ’ s best p r i va t e places to s ta y

SUEÑO CUBANO

Mid range - Casa Particular (B&B) 1932

Habana

Visually stunning, historically fascinating. Welcoming.

Beautiful colonial townhouse with great location.

Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, Centro Habana

Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja.

(+53) 7-863-6203

(+53) 7-861-0253

Julio y Elsa Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable. Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana ( +53) 7-861-8027

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Up-scale B&Bs (Boutique hostals) Sueño cubano Old palace carefully restored, seven rooms, suites with bathrooms and featuring 24 hour service.

LA RESERVA VEDADO

Paseo 206

5 luxurious rooms in a renovated colonial mansion . The tropical garden in the courtyard, ideal to eat, drink and relax.

Incredible boutique hotel and restaurant. Luxury and comfort combined. Paseo, 206 – Vedado.

Calle Santa Clara número 66 entre Oficios e Inquisidor. Habana Vieja

Calle 2 entre 21 y 23 numero 508. Vedado, La

53 78660109 / 39 339 1817730

[email protected]

(+53) 7 8313423, (+53) 5 3600384

Habana (53) 7 8335244 http://lareservavedado.com/

Apartment rentals Bohemia Boutique Apartments Gorgeous 1-bedroom apartment beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja (+53) 5- 403-1 568

Tropicana Penthouse

Suite Havana

A luxurious penthouse with huge roof terrace and breath-taking 360 degree views of Havana and the ocean.

Elegant 2-bedroom apartment in restored colonial building. Quality loft style décor.

Galiano #60 Penthouse Apt.10 e/ San Lázaro y Trocadero (+53) 5-254-5240

Lamparilla #62 altos e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Habana Vieja

www.tropicanapenthouse.com

(+53) 5-829-6524

(+53) 7-836-6567

www.havanabohemia.com

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Luxury Neptuno Apartment Luxury 2-bedroom apartment. Incredible view of the sea and whole city. 7th floor with elevator. Internet access. The best: Look at the city from above, the central location and have a sunset drink on the balcony. Do not miss: Luxury apartment recently decorated with Cuban contemporary style. Air conditioning and Internet access Neptuno #1003 apartamento 30 e/ Espada y Hospital. Centro Habana. (+53) 5-2955761 [email protected]

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Havana’s

best private places to stay Sueño Cubano

Mid range - Casa Particular (B&B) 1932 Visually stunning, historically fascinating. Welcoming. Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-6203

Miramar 301 Luxury House

4 bedrooms private luxury villa with swimming pool

Habana Beautiful colonial townhouse with great location.

Julio y Elsa Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable.

Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-861-0253

Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana ( +53) 7-861-8027

Up-scale B&Bs (Boutique hostals) Sueño cubano

Old palace carefully restored, seven rooms, suites with bathrooms and featuring 24 hour service. Calle Santa Clara número 66 entre Oficios e Inquisidor. Habana Vieja 53 78660109 39 339 1817730

LA RESERVA VEDADO 5 luxurious rooms in a renovated colonial mansion . The tropical garden in the courtyard, ideal to eat, drink and relax. Calle 2 entre 21 y 23 numero 508. Vedado, La Habana [email protected] (53) 7 8335244 http://lareservavedado.com/

Vitrales

Hospitable, attractive and reliable boutique B&B with 9 bedrooms. Habana #106 e/ Cuarteles y Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-2607

Paseo 206

Incredible boutique hotel and restaurant. Luxury and comfort combined. Paseo, 206 – Vedado. (+53) 7 8313423, (+53) 5 3600384

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