G ran Trono Blanco, South Wall, Sierra Juárez. On N ovem ber 9, 10 and 11, John V aw ter, D ick Savidge and I com pleted a new route on the south face of E l G ran T rono Blanco. It consists of 11 pitches, 7 com ­ pletely free and 4 mixed (these involving only a few aid moves or a tension traverse). The route takes the only available crack system left of the previously done route, “H appy H ooker” (A .A .J ., 1975, p. 154), recognized by the huge right-facing chim ney in the center of the south face. The climb starts just past the left-end of an obvious large roof and continues for four pitches to the “H otel,” a very spacious b ut sloping ledge on which we spent two nights. The crux is the next two pitches, involving delicate and varying mixed climbing. The climbing above the “H otel” is superb and continually challenging, with an intim idating am ount of exposure. We used only three pin placements (2 knifeblades, 1 lost-arrow ); emphasis was on wired stoppers with a variety of sky­ hooks. NCCS V, F9, A3. W e r n e r R. L a n d r y